Tools of Japan

[Steel_Rain]

Thanks for sharing! Really intriguing, I think I will try and source a DK-06 set, have to have one.

Kind regards,
Olli

Olli,

I have the DK-08 set:






These sets are great, older sets, but good sets and inexpensive. I love the simplicity and the case design. The driver handle is good too.

 

[BlitzcrankJapan]

Anyone know the difference between the KTC AVSA-R64B and AVSA-R64B2 oil filter tools? Their compatibility tool lists both for my applications (1UR-FSE and 3UR-FE), but their catalog does not list the B2 version.

I don't know the differences. But both the A2 and B2 are the current versions. The A and B are obsolete.

 

[Etchase]

Olli,

I have the DK-08 set:






These sets are great, older sets, but good sets and inexpensive. I love the simplicity and the case design. The driver handle is good too.

Are those compatible with Xcelite?

 

[four.cycle]

Are those compatible with Xcelite?

You too?
When I looked at those, they reminded me of a tiny 1/4" drive 1960's Japan-made set I have here!
What's old is new?

 

[Nobody-named-Olli]

Now that is cool!

Kind regards,
Olli

 

[Steel_Rain]

Are those compatible with Xcelite?

No idea, I don't have many Xcelite tools. Most of the ones I have are from my Dad and they are from the 80's/90's.

 

[Reed Prince]

A few years ago I decided to get some ratcheting wrenches and kind of blindly chose TOP after being pleased with their adjustables. I bought them all at the same time from Amazon Japan, but noticed that some were different than others. I "discussed" my set with Gemini today and it reached this conclusion. Judging from my most recent Gemini experiences, it is probably mostly right.

Series Letter	Approx. Logic	Design Focus
P (PA 14mm)	Early 2000s	The "Speed" Era: Light springs, shallow teeth, buttery smooth.
Q (QA 8mm)	Mid 2000s	The "Hybrid" Era: Still smooth, but starting to tighten tolerances.
T (TB 15mm)	Late 2000s	The "Strength" Revision: Orange ring introduced. Teeth cut deeper.
W (WB 7mm)	2010s+	The "Final Tightening" Spec: Maximum spring tension. Highest backdrag.

 

[ronkz650]

The DK-08 set does look a lot like the old Xcelite sets. These have 1/4" diameter shafts. I won this set in 1978 in a TV repair competition. Still use them often. I'm not sure they were Japanese made in the 70s though. I thought they were USA.

 

[Reed Prince]

I noticed today that two of my slotted bits had the exact same dimensions, so I decided to give them a closer look.

Edit: Just noticed I put this in the wrong thread, but kind of too late now... Same folks in both, I suspect.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

But these Tsunoda are superb in every respect, and reasonably priced too. These live in my aircraft tools box.

Useful for much other than sheet metal bending?

With a 6x3mm tip they're not much off a normal needle nose in that respect. Spec: https://www.tsunoda-japan.com/EN/itempage/DBP-200.html

 

[Dave455]

Useful for much other than sheet metal bending?

With a 6x3mm tip they're not much off a normal needle nose in that respect. Spec: https://www.tsunoda-japan.com/EN/itempage/DBP-200.html

Oh yes, very useful.

For a start, they are basically flat nose pliers, so use them for anything you would use flat nose pliers for.

Gripping thin things, for example. The greater jaw width spreads the grip so you can grip / pull more firmly than with long nose pliers.


The jaws are also much thinner, so you can get into places where long nose might not, e.g. removing fuses.


Sometimes they just work better. E.g. gripping wire.


Overall, flat nose pliers generally, are an complement to long nose pliers, but they don’t do the same job.

I usually have both to hand.


Now, the Tsunoda are “ long reach” flat nose pliers. They will do all that regular length flat nose will do, but are invaluable for reaching in to cramped spaces.

This might not be something you have to do, but in some industries, e.g. aircraft maintenance, they are essential. They can reach in to a tight space to withdraw an electrical connector, steady a screw while it’s started, or meet a host of other requirements.

But they are about the only tool that can wire lock a fastener or component in a confined space. When you have to do this, you need a tool without sharp corners, and it appears to me that the Tsunoda have been optimised for this role.

 

[tamaraw]

Useful for much other than sheet metal bending?

They are actually the default pliers I reach for most often unless I need a specialty tool. Dollar per use, this might be the best tool I have ever bought.

Besides the examples Dave455 mentioned, I have also used them for releasing plastic electrical connectors, manipulating snap rings (both external and internal thanks to the square profile), tensioning bicycle cable (no cutting jaws), snapping/shearing small pieces of plastic or aluminum, etc.

With a 6x3mm tip they're not much off a normal needle nose in that respect. Spec: https://www.tsunoda-japan.com/EN/itempage/DBP-200.html

Because they use a flat profile on the outside face of the jaws (vs the rounded profile on needle nose), they have a lot more width at the tip and are better at gripping things, for the same vertical height and overall length. Jaw width on needle nose pliers tapers down much more.

Comparing to a typical flat nose plier, the jaws are a lot slimmer profile and do taper a bit rather than being parallel. So they are kind of an in-between hybrid of the two types.

 

[F-22]

I noticed today that two of my slotted bits had the exact same dimensions, so I decided to give them a closer look.

Edit: Just noticed I put this in the wrong thread, but kind of too late now... Same folks in both, I suspect.

Surprised they are so close to eachother when zoomed in.

 

[autobon7]

What is the part # or link for the pliers above holding the fuse?

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

(ignore me, it's not the same plier)

 

[Dave455]

What is the part # or link for the pliers above holding the fuse?

Those are Wilkinsons flat nose pliers. Decent tools. Not flashy, but very nicely ground, and thin jaws. Sadly I can’t give a part number as Wilkinsons didn’t always put one on the tool, and the packing is long gone.

I can’t give a link either, as Wilkinsons are also long gone. They were bought out by Record, all their machinery was moved to Sheffield, then Record in turn were bought out, and all their factories closed.

Wilkinsons pliers occasionally turn up surplus, as they were a big supplier to many government departments. There is also an Elliott Lucas version of those pliers, which is similar.

One modern manufacturer of similar pliers is Knipex. Their part number would be 20 01 160.


VBW / Stahlwille offer some with thinner jaws.


As do NWS


And Facom offer a narrow jaw pattern. These French made pliers are very nice.


Apart from the Tsunoda shown above, which are really a different pattern, the only Japanese versions I can think of are by Keiba


And Fujiya

But both are smaller / lighter tools.

 

[four.cycle]

FWIW - easily obtainable, although they do not appear to be super-skinny at the business end:

 

[Reed Prince]

I like those Tsunoda flat nose. I also have some Tronex ones without serrations. And some awful parallel flat nose pliers. I wish I knew where to find nice ones.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

awful parallel flat nose pliers. I wish I knew where to find nice ones.

Parallel Pliers: UK-made Parallel-Action Pliers for Grip - Maun

Equip yourself with Maun parallel pliers, for precise & reliable gripping/bending. UK-made parallel-action pliers, ideal for professionals, DIY'ers & hobbyists.

www.maunindustries.com

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

One modern manufacturer of similar pliers is Knipex. Their part number would be 20 01 160.

Their flat nose range is quite difficult to discover. Aside from models that only come in mini sizes:

• 20 series - short flat nose
• 28 01 200 - short flat nose with long reach
• 33 series - duckbill with smooth jaws
• 29 11 160 - telephone pliers, very similar to the duckbill but with knurled jaws
• 23 01 140 - flat nose with cutter
• Some models in the 30 series e.g. 30 11 190 - long flat nose (similar to the Tsunoda)

The tip dimensions are Tsunoda 6x3 width x thickness, Knipex 8x3, Facom 6.5x4. For reference the closed tips of a normal Tsunoda 150mm needle nose are 2.2x3. The Tsunoda seems a sturdier plier than the Knipex, with a 10mm joint vs. 8mm.

 

[Reed Prince]

Parallel Pliers: UK-made Parallel-Action Pliers for Grip - Maun

Equip yourself with Maun parallel pliers, for precise & reliable gripping/bending. UK-made parallel-action pliers, ideal for professionals, DIY'ers & hobbyists.

www.maunindustries.com

I have some Maun ones too, but they don't seem to make ones with this long, slim shape. I used them just yesterday to hold the side of a small nut in a space with tight clearance. Maybe there's some Japanese thing that does this job better.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Spotted new Tsunoda mini water pump plier, with button

株式会社ツノダ

プロフェッショナルの作業現場からホビーや暮らしのメンテナンスまで､日常の様々なシーンで活躍するペンチ・ニッパー・ラジオペンチ・プライヤー等の作業工具の企画開発､製造､販売｡工具メーカーツノダ

www.tsunoda-japan.com

 

[Steel_Rain]

Tsunoda WP-150D:

 

[rick carpenter]

Tsunoda WP-150D:

I bought these for the toolboxes I built for my three grandkids. Since the oldest two are just now 4 years old, for their safety I ground off the flat blades on each of the handles.

 

[four.cycle]

to hold the side of a small nut in a space with tight clearance. Maybe there's some Japanese thing that does this job better.

"fingertip" wrench might be a solution.
there was a device made that held the nut at the business end of the tool with spring tension - designed for smaller fasteners - but I cannot remember the name of it right now.

 

[C4-621]

Spotted new Tsunoda mini water pump plier, with button

株式会社ツノダ

プロフェッショナルの作業現場からホビーや暮らしのメンテナンスまで､日常の様々なシーンで活躍するペンチ・ニッパー・ラジオペンチ・プライヤー等の作業工具の企画開発､製造､販売｡工具メーカーツノダ

www.tsunoda-japan.com

These are made in China, so if anyone wants a cheap Knipex mimic, might as well get the WorkPro version, unless the Tsunoda logo is cooler or something.

 

[Qualitytools]

These are made in China, so if anyone wants a cheap Knipex mimic, might as well get the WorkPro version, unless the Tsunoda logo is cooler or something.

Looks just like the Knipex Cobra XS. Great find, would be curious if someone that has both would do a side by side comparison.

 

[mdrawde]

Ko-ken RSAS2405A, got the set for 74 NZD (~43 USD). Better polish and chrome, and a few thou smaller OD compared to the standard sockets.

Comparison to a standard 2405A socket:

 

[Caa311]

I didn't realize they made full chrome regular sockets! I feel cheated.

 

[LWB]

Finally picked up some nut grips. I look forward to using them.

 

[jmf535]

Decided to splurge on some new hex keys



There doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there on either of these (especially the Asahi's), so I'm happy to do a little in-depth review if anyone is interested

 

[cbracer]

Ko-ken RSAS2405A, got the set for 74 NZD (~43 USD). Better polish and chrome, and a few thou smaller OD compared to the standard sockets.

That's aircraft spec socket. I believe... the aerospace spec is a looser tolerance on their sockets because it needs to grip painted fasteners. ?

 

[Qualitytools]

^ Interesting, didn’t think about a painted fastener.

 

[Dave455]

That's aircraft spec socket. I believe... the aerospace spec is a looser tolerance on their sockets because it needs to grip painted fasteners. ?

I’m by no means convinced that’s the case.

Some requirements of AS 954 that I’m aware of are -

1) 12 point / bi hex opening

2) Off corner engagement

3) Polished chrome finish

4) Thin wall

5) Stronger steel, relatively hard.

There are obviously other points too, but these are the essentials.

Many good quality socket wrenches will meet 1 and 2 anyway, so meeting the spec may not be a big drama. This is certainly the case for KoKen.

Their regular sockets don’t quite meet 3, as most have a matte area at the top. Personally, I quite like that, and I suspect that their regular finish pretty much meets spec, but they opted for a full polish.

4 and 5 go together. If you have a thin wall socket, it needs to be pretty good steel to meet the torque requirements. Koken certainly reduced the diameter a tiny bit to meet spec, but I don’t know if they needed to change the steel or heat treatment.

I’m guessing probably not, as the extra sum charged for the aerospace sockets is quite small, suggesting that only minor changes were needed, compared to the regular tools.

Some manufacturers, e.g. Stahlwille, charge a considerable amount more for their aerospace tools, which suggests that they make considerably more changes. The steel, certainly, is different. Having said that, the Stahlwille aerospace tools, for the most part, meet more specs than just AS954, and in use you can tell that they are superior tools!

As regards the painting of aerospace fasteners, the majority are not. Most are made from better quality material in the first place, so are not prone to corrosion, and the majority are then given some sort of protective finish. I am aware that some end up being painted, but this is not always the case.

 

[rick carpenter]

Decided to splurge on some new hex keys



There doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there on either of these (especially the Asahi's), so I'm happy to do a little in-depth review if anyone is interested

Please do give us your reviews. I have the sae Eight set through 3/8". I used it quite a bit in the garage a few days ago tearing into an older planer. I was very pleased.

 

[F-22]

Decided to splurge on some new hex keys



There doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there on either of these (especially the Asahi's), so I'm happy to do a little in-depth review if anyone is interested

Also very interested for reading more about these. How are the coatings? I have a set of Vessel, which has a durable coating but I find it a bit too thick and uneven - the eight looks better from the photo in that regard, more like some sort of anodization than paint (but probably less durable?).

 

[jmf535]

Please do give us your reviews. I have the sae Eight set through 3/8". I used it quite a bit in the garage a few days ago tearing into an older planer. I was very pleased.

Also very interested for reading more about these. How are the coatings? I have a set of Vessel, which has a durable coating but I find it a bit too thick and uneven - the eight looks better from the photo in that regard, more like some sort of anodization than paint (but probably less durable?).

I'll put together a more in depth review this weekend, but so I'm very pleased with the performance both of them. A notch above PB Swiss, I'd say.

F-22, you are correct with the Eights bening anodized instead of painted. It is very thin, so would suit your preferences, but I highly doubt it is durable...there were small chips in it straight out of the packaging. It's my one gripe with them.

 

[rick carpenter]

I'll put together a more in depth review this weekend, but so I'm very pleased with the performance both of them. A notch above PB Swiss, I'd say.

F-22, you are correct with the Eights bening anodized instead of painted. It is very thin, so would suit your preferences, but I highly doubt it is durable...there were small chips in it straight out of the packaging. It's my one gripe with them.

I used my Eight set tearing into an old planer a few days ago. I was pleased working with them. Several screws had rather shallow broaching which they handled well. The ad verbiage for my sae Eight and color-coded metric Wise sets say the technology/engineering on the ball ends makes them good enough for final tightening but I won't ever use the ball ends for that. I know better than to tempt fate.

I used the steel-blue hex key a lot on the planer but didn't know what size it was until I checked just a few minutes ago (5/32"). I got a few dings on it but I'm not so worried. I'll prolly never wear all the anodized color off of any one or more keys. And I'll prolly never use them enough to be able to remember which size key is which color anyhow. I didn't use the provided cheater bar, but I'm sure it would really damage the anodizing.

 

[four.cycle]

Japanese-made 8-piece 1/2" hex drive SAE socket set - 7/16" - 15/16"

 

[rick carpenter]

Japanese-made 8-piece 1/2" hex drive SAE socket set - 7/16" - 15/16"

Looks like an old Oxwall set I once had.