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Below 265 SQ/FT Pool shed build

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PCustoms

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We have (3) of the Eley hose reels. Fantastic.

I bought a liberty several years ago. Things was welded crooked from the start, but when I hit it with the plow it didn't help. Need to buy a new one this year.

You guys leave the (empty?) real out all winter?
 
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mike93lx

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I bought a liberty several years ago. Things was welded crooked from the start, but when I hit it with the plow it didn't help. Need to buy a new one this year.

You guys leave the (empty?) real out all winter?
Yes, but we live where the winter weather isn't attempting to kill us.

I drain the hoses and leave them on the reel as well.
 

larry4406

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Northern Virginia
I bought a liberty several years ago. Things was welded crooked from the start, but when I hit it with the plow it didn't help. Need to buy a new one this year.

You guys leave the (empty?) real out all winter?

Yes, but we live where the winter weather isn't attempting to kill us.

I drain the hoses and leave them on the reel as well.
I leave mine out all year. Northern VA climate similar to Mike (he’s 60-90 minutes south of me).

To winterize, I unroll them completely, disconnect jumper hose from bib, and blow compressed air thru the hose to purge it fully. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes, then wind it back up for its winter nap.
 
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mike93lx

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Got some interior lights installed with a motion detector. Next is the fridge and a few exterior receptacles. Then I'll hold on more electrical and see how we use the space.

I really wanted to do it all in EMT, but had to give up and run some romex. Need to practice some more
 
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mike93lx

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I've heard that statement before, lots of folks have tried. Just so we don't tell anyone about the door header we are going to require weekly photos that it is indeed "perfectly organized and uncluttered" :cool:
As promised. 😂

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I got a couple receptacles in, one is for the fridge (and bypasses the gfci upstream shhhhhh!)

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The grey box contains a disconnect switch then the two gfci's serve the rest. Motion detector is for the lights and the switch is for a future fan

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PCustoms

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VT
As promised. 😂

1000007641.jpg


I got a couple receptacles in, one is for the fridge (and bypasses the gfci upstream shhhhhh!)

1000007642.jpg

The grey box contains a disconnect switch then the two gfci's serve the rest. Motion detector is for the lights and the switch is for a future fan

1000007643.jpg
Ooof, is that 90 going to get buried, or are you leaving it open? (I see mud rings....)
 
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mike93lx

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Ooof, is that 90 going to get buried, or are you leaving it open? (I see mud rings....)
Its not a junction, it will be just fine.

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I couldn't figure out another way to get into the next bay, but am open to suggestions. Trying to avoid going up and over.

Not sure if I am closing the walls up. If I do, I could always pull it and replace with romex
 

PCustoms

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Its not a junction, it will be just fine.

1745970538717.jpeg
Unfortunately I don't think that matters, it has screws and is a pull point, it needs to be accessible...

I couldn't figure out another way to get into the next bay, but am open to suggestions. Trying to avoid going up and over.

Not sure if I am closing the walls up. If I do, I could always pull it and replace with romex

Not trying to give you grief, but the Romex to the box on the right and the emt to the box on the left has me :headscrat , just run Romex, cover the inside in tasteful shiplap and be done.

What kind of pool shack you building here?
 
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mike93lx

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Unfortunately I don't think that matters, it has screws and is a pull point, it needs to be accessible...



Not trying to give you grief, but the Romex to the box on the right and the emt to the box on the left has me :headscrat , just run Romex, cover the inside in tasteful shiplap and be done.

What kind of pool shack you building here?
I know on the elbow. It will either stay accessible or get replaced.

The grief is all good. I posted earlier that I wanted to do all emt and tried, but was getting frustrated, wasting time and pipe, and I needed lights installed. The intention is to either replace the romex or at least sleeve it up to the top plate

I am not certain on cladding the walls, but even if it happens, it's not happening for a bit. Too much going on and too many other bigger projects to spend money on.
 
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mike93lx

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It's a little bit of Barnum and Bailey, but I got the 90 out of there... For you, @PCustoms

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The switch box is getting changed to a 3 gang, at which point the romex will get sleeved.

Exterior outlets are wired up. They were a pain in the ***, but I like the look

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I put a light over the door. It's a bit small, so I think I may move this to my other shed and go up a size for this one. That light will be on an astronomical timer and also connected to an outlet under the right side eve and possibly three wafer led's in the left side eve (faces the house and street)

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I picked up trim for the corner boards, door, window and at the bottom of the walls, as well as some 3/8 lap siding to use as fascia (same as I did on my other shed). I doubt I will do anything other than cleanup tomorrow....i need a break
 

PCustoms

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It's a little bit of Barnum and Bailey, but I got the 90 out of there... For you, @PCustoms

1000007650.jpg

I forgot, how many degrees on bend before you need a pull box?

Got more patience then me, I would have thrown in the towel and used NM and sheathed the walls with tin or something
 
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mike93lx

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I forgot, how many degrees on bend before you need a pull box?

Got more patience then me, I would have thrown in the towel and used NM and sheathed the walls with tin or something
360 for a run is the only rule I know.

Its frustrating for sure, but I wanted to win.
 
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mike93lx

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The electricians I worked with told me 270 degrees per run but I don't know the real answer.
270 is probably a good limit to target

In the 2017 National Electrical Code (NEC), section 358.26 limits the number of bends in a single run of Electrical Metallic Tubing (EMT) to the equivalent of four quarter bends (360 degrees) between pull points like conduit bodies and boxes. This restriction is in place to prevent excessive stress and friction on conductor insulation during pulling.
 
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mike93lx

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I made some corner boards by ripping 1" off a 5/4x4 and assembling with tite bond 2 and stainless siding nails. Fascia is lap siding, ripped to 6" wide.

Everything then got two coats of paint.

Hoping to install the fascia, blocking for soffit and the corner trim next weekend.

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mike93lx

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Managed to squeeze in the time for a few pieces of fascia. Makes a big difference in how it looks, at least to me

I ripped all of it to the same width, but I'm thinking I may need to make the eve's taller to deal with how it meets the gable? Or just knock the corner off the end of the gable?

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mike93lx

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How are you going to seal the door?

Trim with 1x and let in z-flash?
Are hopes and caulking acceptable? 😂

I have a sure sill head flashing that I am going to try and install. We'll see how it goes

If I cant get it to work, I'll have my roofer bend something when I have him out for the gutters and Z at the bottom of the walls

All the trim will be 5/4x4 LP except soffit and fascia, which is 3/8 LP
 
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mike93lx

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No progress on the shed last weekend due to losing a day to flight and travel issues, but I did get a gazebo assembled with the help of my father.

Its genuinely impressive how they can engineer these things to fit in a flat pack box and end up feeling pretty sturdy.

I need to anchor it this weekend and maybe make some progress on fascia and corner boards so I can get the gutters done, but I have a deck to do at my folks so we'll see what happens


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mike93lx

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Nice gazebo Mike!

Would be nice if the legs were water tight and you could simply fill them with a hose to ballast it down.
They're actually wood. It was made in Malaysia and smells like cedar. We'll see how long it lasts.

Debating how many anchors I really need. The brackets are very light duty sheet metal, but I wonder if one per leg is enough. Problem is, that I won't know if it is really OK until it isnt. It's in a very protected spot and has a vented roof, so I think uplift risk is low
 
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mike93lx

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It's been a minute, but I finally got the soffits closed up with the help of a buddy yesterday.

Since I ain't a carpenter, this needs caulking and paint, but I'm happy enough with how we closed up the eve to Gable transition. I'm planning to clip off the end of the Gable fascia, just ran out of time yesterday.

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Next is to finish the interior electrical (needs a few receptacles), then spray the framing with boracare, then insulate and close the ceiling. I'm leaning towards drywall but can still be convinced otherwise.

The floor needs something on it that can be kept clean and is very slip resistant. Coating? Porcelain? IKEA wood tiles? https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/runnen-decking-outdoor-acacia-60518486/#content

The front half of the interior is for the fridge, toys and a changing space. Back half is storage. Longer term, I could see the storage turning into some form of a hang out space
 
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mike93lx

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