The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread

[Odd-job]

Really liking my Astro Tools 3019B. Had an old school Milton for years, but really like the digital display on this and the ability to bleed air. Useful when seating tubeless tires. While it has a beefy aluminum body the lever is plastic which I doubt will hold up as well as the Milton which has been run over by a car a few times at least.

 

[terrific]

Thanks for all the answers about the chain tools. It looks like the saddled part which helps align the chain is what makes the bike chain breakers unique. And having to match that part to the dimensions of the chain is what creates the incompatibilities. The Hozan solution is pretty cool.
Industrial chain breakers could benefit from the same part, but it would have to be interchangeable so that you could work on different size chains. Or maybe just have a set of fingers that could spread in and out, and basically clamp the rollers with it. I guess if we've made it this far without them, it's not really necessary, but you could say that about any incremental improvement.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Custom made manual bike stand, cause I cannot stand the available ones lol

 

[Meursault74]

Custom made manual bike stand, cause I cannot stand the available ones lol

Yeah, we're going to need closer detail pictures of the clamping area for the bike and the stand.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Ask and you shall receive
I need a horizontal reinforcement plate, between the two legs and no one seems to provide online laser servises in Germany. Also, a different clamping axle as the one I have is too short, but the cnc service says they cannot accommodate that. Weird, as they made the first one just fine.
If I had enough money to throw Id made it motorised and with a titanium 3d printed sliding support

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Nice clamp. I’ve been tempted to design my own with a big *** heavy duty bearing for flipping e-bikes over to remove motors, but instead bought two EVT stands. Might have to use your clamp as inspiration for a project down the road!

 

[HannibalLecter]

Nice clamp. I’ve been tempted to design my own with a big *** heavy duty bearing for flipping e-bikes over to remove motors, but instead bought two EVT stands. Might have to use your clamp as inspiration for a project down the road!

Yeah the clamp is cnc machined and it cost too much lol. Re flipping e bikes the best solution would be a worm gear and a motorised stand

 

[fishwatcher]

..As for the clik valves, once you try you never wanna go back. Only hassle is when you have to change a tube you have to unscrew and rescrew the valve core

I recently added Clik Valves to a few of my bikes.

Here are my observations.

1. Clicking on and off is convenient. It eliminates the hassle of screwing the presta top on and off to fill tires.
2. The minimal release of air when clicking on and off is also a nice feature.
3. If you have a vintage Silca Pista without the Schraeder end, the 2-in-1 adapter head’s barb fits perfectly on a new hose. I assume it also fits an old hose well.
4. I really wish it had a bleed valve. I believe Lezyne offers one, and ClikValve will likely offer one soon (as leaked by Seth from Berm Peak). Releasing air manually is not enjoyable.
5. My digital pressure gauge, a Topeak D2, does not work well with ClikValves.
6. The Silca Terra’s Schraeder head holds onto a Clik adapter well, although it’s a bit awkward. The release valve on the Terra is still great to have.
7. Silca has made a video comparing their products. I hope they make a Chuck that fits the Silca Terra seamlessly. Their screw-on Chuck fitting seems perfect for that. A nicer-looking Schraeder head for posts pumps would also be nice.
8. Since presta pumps are compatible with clik valves, I’ll probably never remember to bring the head adapter along for a ride. It won’t matter since my presta heads should work with these. I better test that with my pumps (tattico and co2 heads).

 

[fishwatcher]

One related update.

I have another Silca Pista pump that I have a new gauge coming in for. I stripped off the flaking paint and now it’s bare metal except for the original Silca sticker. Last night I put a Hiro Chuck on it. I think it looks good.

I could paint the body, or I could leave it bare. I would probably put some boiled linseed oil on it to protect it from rusting.

Any suggestions or votes for either choice? I have some new Silca stickers also. I could remove and replace the original sticker.

Thanks!

 

[Odd-job]

my vote is for bare metal. Floor pumps (and bikes) get banged around. Its hard to keep paint pretty.

Edit: liking the fire blanket in the background. I might need to copy that idea. Never know when you might catch yourself on fire!

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I’m a fan of bare metal for pumps. I switched all of our bikes over to click valves 6 months ago. So far no complaints and no clogging. All but one of our presta pumps will work. However I have the click chucks on most of them now.

Time will tell if it becomes a new standard. There are better valves out there but click hits the correct price point. As for bleeding air I just use the cap. Not as easy as a presta but zero issues bending the valve core.



Got the Andreani shaft clamps set up in the off set vise. So far they work well but wish they had a larger flat spot. Might end up switching to the LABA7 system. But that’s 3x the cost Or machining my own adapter with a larger flat spot. Still waiting on permits for the restroom : compressor room and all of the 220 circuits. It’s been over 6 months and zero progress there.

Speaking of LABA7 the vacuum pump is vaporizing a lot of oil. Got a call in to them to get that sorted. I will say the automatic bleed function works very well. When I get time I’ll probably try to optimize is with done custom settings to speed up the shocks I see more off. Will be really nice when the rest of the tanks arrive.

I’ve been buying tools like a drunk sailor setting up multiple workstations. I’m so backlogged after doing a soft opening last week it’s overwhelming and I need to find some staff asap. Which I suppose is a good problem. Growing pains I guess.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Have you bought special variants of non-bike tools to deal with bike problem scenarios?

My e-bike's chainring has a 10mm nut (external hex). It's recessed into a hole, only protruding ~1mm out of it. The gap between this and the frame in the most favourable rotation position is ~15mm. I'll get them off one way or another possibly by jamming them in the hole, but I took the excuse to find some tools that may help with this or something else in future.

KTC M27 offset double ring end wrench, with no chamfering, and rotationally offset heads too.


More photos from a member here.

Koken Zeal 2400MZ shallow thin wall socket, 13.5mm diameter and 15mm long in size 10mm. The shallowness is often a problem, so I also got the 2300XZ semi-deeps, to do the axle nuts of my pedals for which they need to pass down the threaded hole for the cap.

 

[BWWgarage]

Custom made manual bike stand, cause I cannot stand the available ones lol

Matches your bike well!!

 

[ChevyEFI]

Have you bought special variants of non-bike tools to deal with bike problem scenarios?

My e-bike's chainring has a 10mm nut (external hex). It's recessed into a hole, only protruding ~1mm out of it. The gap between this and the frame in the most favourable rotation position is ~15mm. I'll get them off one way or another possibly by jamming them in the hole, but I took the excuse to find some tools that may help with this or something else in future.

KTC M27 offset double ring end wrench, with no chamfering, and rotationally offset heads too.

Are the KTC wrenches the solution to your chainring, or are they on their way to you?

Do you know what the OEM tool is?

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Are the KTC wrenches the solution to your chainring, or are they on their way to you?

They're on their way from Japan with some other stuff, so will be a while. But yes, that's what I got them for, although it's at least possible to retighten loose ones with an open end wrench put on at an angle (not ring ends due to the chamfer).

I was wondering if chamferless wrenches existed and found this post on here about them. I know flat/chamferless sockets are available in larger sizes for suspension stuff, and of course you can always grind stuff down.

Do you know what the OEM tool is?

I don't know how these ended up on my bike. eThirteen crankset with SRAM chainring, so blame one of them. I had the bike shop fit a smaller chainring (also SRAM) from new, and the empty box for it I got contained normal chainring bolts/nuts.

Come think of it, the bike shop probably used one of these cut stamped chainring bolt spanners which suits all types, and has no chamfer. Never had a bike with chainring bolts before, so didn't remember these things existed. The KTCs will be nice to have anyway and they were cheap.




(not my photo - source)