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Duty cycle on air compressor requirement, automatic drain valves for outdoor environments

clinto

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
6
Location
Statham, Ga.
Two major questions in this thread:
  1. How much duty cycle do I need for my intended uses (described below)?
  2. How to drain moisture from my unusual air distribution system?
Duty cycle
So, I rarely use air tools anymore. I have cordless impacts and various hand tools.

But, I've always enjoyed paint work and have always wanted to do more of it. I've painted a fair amount of equipment and components and plan on painting my M35A2, my '65 fastback and my parent's Chevelle. I also have a pretty nice sandblast cabinet, that like all of them is pretty thirsty.

My 5hp, 60 gallon single stage Ingersoll Rand from 1991 is wearing out. I know I need more volume, but what I can't decide on his how much duty cycle. I plan on buying a 7.5hp, 230V single phase, 80 gallon compressor as an upgrade. There are many different units on the market, with duty cycles ranging from 60% to 100%. I feel like I need a 100% duty cycle, because I strongly doubt a sandblast cabinet is going to allow even a big unit like I'm describing to stay off long enough to cool off. Most of the units I've looked at barely hit my sandblaster minimum (21 cfm @ 80 psi). The Northern tool unit is 26 cfm @ 90 psi w/ 60% duty cycle, the Quincy is 24.3 cfm @ 90 psi w/100% duty cycle, the Industrial Air is 22 cfm @ 100 psi with an 80% duty cycle and the T30 is 24.3 cfm @ 90 psi with a 100% duty cycle.

So, for painting cars, and running a sandblaster, using an 80 gallon tank, what is the consensus? Do I need a 100% duty cycle or can I get away with less?

I don't wanna' blow $3-4K on a compressor and then burn it up by outrunning it's duty cycle.

Air system drain
So, I recently fulfilled a lifetime goal of building a shop for my antiques. I built a 30'x40' w/ 14' walls and 12'x12' insulated doors with a side awning for my stuff. It's so nice having everything indoors and I can't wait to be able to do all the projects I've never been able to do, like paint projects. I haven't done a build thread because I ran out of money and want to wait until I finish the interior to post up my build. But I do need help with my air system.

While I was laying the infrastructure out, I ran a 1" air line from my house garage, all the way back to the shop slab, and beyond the slab back to a small 12'x16' shed I use for the yardwork equipment and eventually my air compressor. I haven't wired the shed yet, so the compressor is still in the house garage, piping the air back to the shop. The house is the lowest elevation, the shop is in the middle and the shed sits at the highest elevation. Eventually, once the compressor is in the shed, it'll send air down to the shop, and then down to the house garage, so I can air up tires without having to drive back to the shop. Where the line is underground, it's sch40 PVC. Where it comes out of the ground, it's 1" black pipe and I'll be using the Rapid Air aluminum pipe in the shop and garage. There will not any PVC in the system that isn't underground.

Since the lowest point in the air line is where it turns 90° and comes out of the ground before going into the garage, it collected some water and got into the tools. I modified the 90° by adding a tee and a manual valve, as I was in the middle of a job and needed to fix the problem.

Soon I'll be finishing this up and I want to add an automatic drain at the lowest point, which is underground. I figured I'd put it in a valve / irrigation box with gravel in order to dissipate the water / air.

What kind of a drain valve should I be using? A mechanical, non-electric seems appealing for simplicity's sake, but I have also read a fair amount of complaints online about bad reliability, clogging, etc. Are there drain valves with a timer that are heavy duty enough for this application (outdoors, inside a valve box, where moisture and other environmental hazards will be present)? Any recommendations? Has anyone else built a system like this?

Some pictures:

Things I've painted:

20131030_154346 (Small).jpg

20131030_154509 (Small).jpg



The shop:
20251114_004509 (Medium).jpg

20251026_171832 (Small).jpg

20250910_110331 (Small).jpg

20251009_171213 (Small).jpg

20251011_093807 (Small).jpg

IMG_1369 (Small).JPG
Sandblast cabinet and compressor.


lb (Small).jpg
I just checked and I do have the 1/4" nozzle. So at a minimum, I need 21cfm @ 80psi.
 
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C

clinto

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
6
Location
Statham, Ga.
Do you live in a climate where ambient temperatures drop below freezing?


Very rarely. I live near Athens, Ga., about an hour east of Atlanta.


Our coldest month is January, with an average low of 33°F.

I would say that each year, we do have a few cold snaps where it gets down into the high teens for a few days. Wind chill can be lower. I occasionally have to cover outdoor spigots, just to be on the safe side.
 
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larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,976
Location
Northern Virginia
Love that old Dodge!

Dad had a Navy surplus just like it. Slant 6. Granny gear with 1st non-synchro!

Look into continuous run compressors for long durations of blasting.

The pvc airlines underground would be a concern for me.
 
OP
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clinto

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
6
Location
Statham, Ga.
Love that old Dodge!

Dad had a Navy surplus just like it. Slant 6. Granny gear with 1st non-synchro!

Look into continuous run compressors for long durations of blasting.

The pvc airlines underground would be a concern for me.

Thanks. That's my buddy's truck. We bought it as a parts truck for his other crewcab USAF W200 and ended up putting it back together as a driver. It was a Slant 6, NP435 / NP208 (I think, can't remember). I love those things.

Underground PVC:
I'm not thrilled about it either. But I had to cover a run of almost 250' from the house to the shop to the shed and I couldn't come up with a better solution. Especially considering there were a couple of bends and several elevation changes.

I have a skid steer with a 48" trencher, I did all of this myself. I ensured the trenches were clean, and had no rocks or debris. I checked the system for leaks before burying and most of it is at least 24" deep, with the bulk of it being 24"-42" deep. The system has been in use now for about a year without issue (other than my mistake of not implementing a drain at the low point).

If the PVC fails, I'll have to reconsider the entire system. Perhaps a small 110V compressor in the garage for the occasional tires and a new line running from the shed to the shop.

I have been listening to the compressor for 20+ years, so once it's in the shed, it's never coming back to the shop. I wanna' hear the music, not the compressor. So if the delivery system fails, I'll have to bury something new to pipe air from the shed to the shop (approximately 90').

The PVC is totally buried, anywhere there's a vertical pipe coming out of the ground, it's black iron or galvanized pipe. I know several people who have piped air with PVC and had it last for years. I wouldn't do it because of the explosion risk, but I figured with it insulated on all sides by dirt and deep underground, it'd be ok. Worst case was that if it fails underground, I abandon it and replace it with something better.

We'll see if my chance pays off.

Other Power Wagon shots:
10679559_10205181680810277_8839668195083548980_o.jpg

20131030_154359.jpg
 

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,976
Location
Northern Virginia
I used RapidAir between my barn and house. It’s rated for direct burial and even encapsulated in concrete.

I hope to move my compressor to the barn this year and finally energize it.
 
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