I just bought a new DeWalt table saw.

[KSV]

To Chevota Guy, just joined Garage Journal, and I received a notice that I can’t PM you until I rack up 10 posts first. So.... this is post 1.

 

[Brokenuckle]

I am thinking about buying a Dewalt 7491rs to replace my Delta contractors saw due to space. These infeed and outfeed tables look like the ticket.

 

[Chevota Guy]

I am thinking about buying a Dewalt 7491rs to replace my Delta contractors saw due to space. These infeed and outfeed tables look like the ticket.

Send me an email and I'll reply with the PDF docs of the tables. They aren't drawings or plans but I photographed the build and annotated dimensions that should be easy to replicate.
**** Mahany

 

[ajriddle]

Wow this looks amazing Chevota! Hoping to get your plans because the outfeed/infeed combo looks way better than all the others I've seen for a portable jobsite saw.

When you google around for plans so many people try to make them cabinet saws with their fixed outfeeds/extensions that are huge! I'm envious of everyone elses space but the reason I got this DeWalt portable saw was because I didn't have space for a real cabinet saw. Not sure why so many people seem to be buying jobsite saws just to build them into big tables in their garage for DIY stuff.

 

[import36]

Send me an email and I'll reply with the PDF docs of the tables. They aren't drawings or plans but I photographed the build and annotated dimensions that should be easy to replicate.
**** Mahany

I just picked up the 7491RS a few months ago...was able to build an outfeed table using plans that looked similar to Chevota's.

I am definitely interested in your infeed table pdf doc...as I can't figure out how to build one that requires modification (holes) to mount it (and I'd prefer not to drill holes in my saw).

 

[dabeastro]

I just bought this table saw and I am looking at blades. Would love to put a full kerf WW II on there with the stock riving knife. Chevota Guy says this works...with the riving knife? Looks like it is on in one of the photos, but the blade is not shown. Anybody else have comment on that?

 

[mike93lx]

If the diameter is standard and the blade is at least as wide as the knife, it will function. If the blade is significantly wider, the knife might not prevent a pinch though

 

[bubinga]

If it is the 7491 RS, it is one great saw. I downsized from a 3HP Unisaw and went with out a table saw for a couple of years using only a track saw. I wanted to rip narrow pieces for face frame and door frames and got the 7491. It has really surprised me about how capable it is.

I run full kerf Forrest WW II blades with out problems and it spins a full sized 8" dado just fine. Of course the feed rate is slower than my old cabinet saw, but it is a well built tool for the compromises that have to be made with lightweight portable jobsite saws.

I took the time with a dial indicator to make sure that the miter slots are parallel to the blade and likewise for the rip fence. Very little tuning was needed, but the adjustments are designed into this saw if needed. The fence is a strong point on this saw, however the included miter gauge is worthless. I replaced mine with an Incra model that is excellent and added LeeCraft zero clearance inserts for tear out free work.

I built an outfeed table and an infeed table which have greatly enhanced the performance and versatility of this saw. You'll be happy with the 7491RS for sure.

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The outfeed and infeed tables attach to the saw without tools. The infeed table allows the crosscut sled to be fully retracted in font of the blade without tipping.
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For those who find the fence not sufficient, a reversibile aux tall and long fence may be helpful. I like feather boards and this fence has been very handy at times.

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If any of these mods might interest you, PM me as I have documented the building processes in PDFs. Although not "plans" per se, will share freely.

For those who disdain lowly "jobsite saws"................ Maybe think again

UPDATE 11-17-2020: I learned that DeWalt changed the upper rear cross member from tubular to a flat C-channel sometime after my saw was built (Type 2 manufactured 2017). Fortunately the overall outfeed table concept is still valid but the "hook" feature of the support wing will need to be adapted accordingly.

Nice work!!

 

[Chevota Guy]

I just bought this table saw and I am looking at blades. Would love to put a full kerf WW II on there with the stock riving knife. Chevota Guy says this works...with the riving knife? Looks like it is on in one of the photos, but the blade is not shown. Anybody else have comment on that?

I use the stock riving knife on my 7491RS with several different full kerf Forrest Wood Worker II blades and haven't had problems. (I have never used the stock blade). If I ever think the riving knife needs to be thickened up, I'll just add a layer or two of aluminum duct sealing tape, but for now I don't see the need.

 

[dabeastro]

I use the stock riving knife on my 7491RS with several different full kerf Forrest Wood Worker II blades and haven't had problems. (I have never used the stock blade). If I ever think the riving knife needs to be thickened up, I'll just add a layer or two of aluminum duct sealing tape, but for now I don't see the need.

You're my kinda guy. I love that duct sealing tape and use it for everything (so does my 9 year old). Thanks!

 

[ls2bait]

This is exactly what I am looking for. Long time lurker with a reason now to register! I’m also wanting to incorporate a router into my table *** well.

 

[Krash Kadillak]

Bought the 7491RS last summer. Ordered it months before, but everyone was out-of-stock. Must have off-loaded thousands of them after the boat finally docked. . Great saw, but haven't used it much.....yet. I HAD to buy SOMETHING. Didn't trust my 30 year-old Skill table saw anymore, safety-wise. . Didn't sell it to anyone - threw it away.

 

[MatBirch]

I picked one in late October. Just finally assembled it and used it yesterday. Love it! A local retailer was running “Dewalt Days” and had it for $499. I overheard a couple guys talking with an employee, and he offered them additional discounts. I asked the guy helping me, and he said “sure”, as he handed me another $50 in Dewalt Bucks!
I’ve had everything from an old Craftsman, and older Delta contractor saws, a 5hp unisaw, a cheap craftsman jobsite saw, and used multitudes of others. While this is no Unisaw, it’s pretty awesome!

 

[Pat Urruty]

I am thinking about buying a Dewalt 7491rs to replace my Delta contractors saw due to space. These infeed and outfeed tables look like the ticket.

Check out you tube for “How I Do Things DIY”. This guy made a folding outfeed table for his Dewalt 7491 RS. So it goes with you and the saw when in the down position. I made one for my new Dewalt 7491 RS. It’s great!

 

[slandau2022]

Send me an email and I'll reply with the PDF docs of the tables. They aren't drawings or plans but I photographed the build and annotated dimensions that should be easy to replicate.
**** Mahany

I would love to get the PDFs of the 7491 indeed and out feed tables you made, if possible. My email is slandau2002 @ yahoo Thank You!

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Nice saw would love to replace my Ryobi saw from 2005 but it still works like a champ.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Just got mine!
I've wanted/needed a table saw for years, but never really had a place to put it.
I was thinking, yes, there's something to the Cabinet Saw recommendations all over this site. However, with a 31x22 3-car garage for 3 cars, 10x10 Tuff Shed for storage, and a (fully exposed) 25x19 RV pad for most of my actual full-scale woodworking, a contractor's/table saw is really the best option for me.
I've used may Dad's 2 generations of Craftsman, and his Rigid which got passed along to my sister and BIL who didn't need to transport it too far. This DeWalt feels worlds ahead of those.
The fence is outstanding. The mitre guide is functional, but I will likely upgrade it before my upcoming precision project.
The saw runs so smoothly, stays true, and cuts so well. The only thing in my experience which compares it the cabinet saw from the Engineering lab when I was in school.

It ran an 8" dado to 2 1/4" deep in an acacia butcherblock countertop , in ~1/4" increments, with no problem.

I love those infeed and outfeed tables! Currently working on a wheeled side table to mate up with the saw, and house a 27x30 tool chest. I'll first see if repurposing it for infeed and outfeed, as needed, is good enough. If not, I'll be checking into those plans!
Hadn't thought about cutting a miter channel into it, but that could be a really good option.

 

[endangeredspecies]

I need to route the underside of the side table to clear the handles when the table is on the left. Other than, pretty happy with it - though it's nowhere near as gorgeous (or flush) as Chevota Guy's.

I got both the PowerTec crosscut sled and miter gauge for Christmas, and gifted myself a used Sterratt combination square, so I should be ready to make some nice, even cuts when I get to put it back into service later this month.

 

[bubinga]

Have you used the "the PowerTec crosscut sled and miter gauge" yet?
I would like to have one of those things
Looking into them now!

 

[WWheeler]

I picked up the DWE7491RS about 5 months ago. So far I used it when we built a garage at my cousin's house. Next up we're tearing down one at my mom's that got pretty heavily damaged by a tree limb and rebuilding a new one on the old slab, so I'll be toting it over there too. At home I have a cabinet saw so not a whole lot of use for it there. I did set it up with a dado stack in it once so I wouldn't have to keep changing out the blade back and forth for one project, just to save a little time.

I like how easy it was to set up out of the box, how I went through everything to make sure the blade was 90 deg to the table when set to 90 and the blade and the fence were aligned to the miter slot and everything was dead-on perfect. It's also really easy to set up, to fold back down, roll around, throw in the back of the truck and do it all over again.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Have you used the "the PowerTec crosscut sled and miter gauge" yet?
I would like to have one of those things
Looking into them now!

Not yet.
But planning to use them pretty extensively tomorrow - if the rain holds off.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Have you used the "the PowerTec crosscut sled and miter gauge" yet?
I would like to have one of those things
Looking into them now!

I used them!
Cross-Cut Sled:
1/2" MDF. Aluminum fence. Felt kinda cheap right outa the box. Fairly easy to align. Can't get the gauge accurate at both 0 and 45 degrees - gotta adjust it each time I change the angle. Plastic set screws should be aluminum, or firmer plastic. They deform, so clearance doesn't hold. Hard to get the tension right. Either wobbles, or jams. Weird that it only uses one miter slot. Doesn't offer support for the offcut piece. MDF split from tightening hold-down clamp.
I'm keeping it for now, and like the aluminum fence, but, overall, don't waste you're money. Luckily I already bought some solid maple to make my own. Hopefully I can at least employ the PowerTec to get the initial cuts pretty straight. If you have any inclination at all to make your own following one of the online tutorials, I would recommend going that route.

I will say, when used within it's context: Short, narrow pieces with just a little bit of off-cut, it is pretty nice. But I was trimming down sheet goods, and it just wasn't ideal. And the hold-down slot splitting after just a couple uses is very disappointing.




I really, really wanted to love the PowerTec Miter Gauge.
It's a little finicky to setup with the tiny socket-head screws. But manageable, if you have a good square.
It really tough to get the knurled nuts tight enough to keep the fence in place. I have a lot of finger strength, but there isn't adequate clearance to really grab 'em. Using pliers deforms the plastic knurling.

I like the idea of the compressible rings for tension. Implementation is somewhat lacking. If the fence isn't perfectly centered, left to right, you'll still get some lean and wobble even if it's too tight to push smoothly. Fence overall seems too heavy for the gauge. When set up properly, it is WORLDS better than the stock one that came with the saw, but I still felt it had shortcomings when dialed in to my best ability. Then, after perhaps six passes, the screw securing the leading aluminum ring fell out. I have the ring, but lost the screw. In that condition, it's no better than the stock one. (I'll be buying a new screw, and using Loc-Tite.)

All in all, I like this one and will continue to use it, but can't help wish Santa brought me the Incra instead.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Completed side-table build, and routed it out to accomodate the saw stand as a left support table for long items; can be (and was) readily utilized as an infeed table; did pretty good for outfeed, but occasionally the workpiece would catch, or the table would move. Haven't tried it on the right yet. Should be fine, but better on the left. Needs four larger, locking, heavy-duty casters, and a couple more leg supports. But works well once in place. Doesn't fit in the shed/woodshop quite as well as I had hoped.

 

[endangeredspecies]

I really, really wanted to love the PowerTec Miter Gauge.
It's a little finicky to setup with the tiny socket-head screws. But manageable, if you have a good square.
It really tough to get the knurled nuts tight enough to keep the fence in place. I have a lot of finger strength, but there isn't adequate clearance to really grab 'em. Using pliers deforms the plastic knurling.

I like the idea of the compressible rings for tension. Implementation is somewhat lacking. If the fence isn't perfectly centered, left to right, you'll still get some lean and wobble even if it's too tight to push smoothly. Fence overall seems too heavy for the gauge. When set up properly, it is WORLDS better than the stock one that came with the saw, but I still felt it had shortcomings when dialed in to my best ability. Then, after perhaps six passes, the screw securing the leading aluminum ring fell out. I have the ring, but lost the screw. In that condition, it's no better than the stock one. (I'll be buying a new screw, and using Loc-Tite.)

All in all, I like this one and will continue to use it, but can't help wish Santa brought me the Incra instead.

As it turns out, PowerTec sells the Plate and Screw for like $2.50, or I can try to source a replacement screw elsewhere. M5-.08 flat-head with 3mm socket drive. .309" length might be harder to find.

Looks like their T-Bolts are 1/4-20. So getting some nice, tough metal knurled nuts shouldn't prove excessively difficult.
Maybe I'll learn to love it after all.

 

[bubinga]

Completed side-table build, and routed it out to accomodate the saw stand as a left support table for long items; can be (and was) readily utilized as an infeed table; did pretty good for outfeed, but occasionally the workpiece would catch, or the table would move. Haven't tried it on the right yet. Should be fine, but better on the left. Needs four larger, locking, heavy-duty casters, and a couple more leg supports. But works well once in place. Doesn't fit in the shed/woodshop quite as well as I had hoped.

Sorry it didn't work out
Yeah, I think for sure 2 tracks are ALWAYS better than one!!
(Of course, that is if the application will allow it!)

 

[nadogail]

As it turns out, PowerTec sells the Plate and Screw for like $2.50, or I can try to source a replacement screw elsewhere. M5-.08 flat-head with 3mm socket drive. .309" length might be harder to find.

Looks like their T-Bolts are 1/4-20. So getting some nice, tough metal knurled nuts shouldn't prove excessively difficult.
Maybe I'll learn to love it after all.

You can make your 1/4 -20 nuts from Uni Strut Tension Nuts.

 

[endangeredspecies]

You can make your 1/4 -20 nuts from Uni Strut Tension Nuts.

Thanks!
Unless I misunderstand, it looks like those would work for T-Nuts. T-Bolts are fine; I'm after a knurned knut I can torque on with pliers. Found some at McMaster. Kinda pricey, but they should last.

 

[endangeredspecies]

As it turns out, PowerTec sells the Plate and Screw for like $2.50, or I can try to source a replacement screw elsewhere. M5-.08 flat-head with 3mm socket drive. .309" length might be harder to find.

Looks like their T-Bolts are 1/4-20. So getting some nice, tough metal knurled nuts shouldn't prove excessively difficult.
Maybe I'll learn to love it after all.

Update on the PowerTec Mitre Gauge:
Bought a 50-pack of 3/8" M5-0.8 flat-head screws. Fit, and worked great. Found the one that fell out...

The T-Bolts are NOT 1/4-20. Probably 3/8; I need to measure and figure it out. Torqueing down the factory knurled nuts enough to keep the fence in place crushed the plastic body. So now I NEED some metal knurled nuts. New job for this week.

* Update: T-bolts on my gauge are 5/16-18. Steel, knurled, flange, thumb nuts ordered. *

Setup took a while, and methodology probably wouldn't be encouraged here, but I got the sled to work satisfactorily to cut 45-degree angles on 2ft 1/2" plywood. So, all-in-all, I can't complain.

LOVE the saw. Easy to align. Cuts great. Fence is straight, aligned, and repeatable. Easy to move into place, and store away. I've been using an 80-tooth Diablo carbide laminate-and-aluminum blade on EVERYTHING - from 1/2" ply, to 1.125" sheething; 1/2, 3/4" laminated acacia, 2" fir and redwood, 1/4 and 1/2" hardwoods, 1/2" plastic, 1/16" aluminum; rips, crosscuts, weird angles. It just zips through, campturing the finest powdery dust through the shop-vac port.
I do need to clean the (vacuum) filter a couple times a day, but it's a small price to pay.

 

[endangeredspecies]

5/16-18 thumb nuts came in. They work great, but do need to be tool-tightened to hold the fence firmly.
Forward plate stayed put.
Love my trusty Starrett combination square. Discovered that if I adjust the miter gauge to 45 degrees one direction, it's spot-on if I flip it a full 180 to 45 degrees the other direction. But 45 is a little off when adjusted to 0, and 0 is a little off when adjusted to 45. I haven't performed the 5-cut method to determine how far off it is. But there's now way I'm going to go through that eiach time I adjust it, so I'm VERY happy to use the quality combination square to true it up each time.

One piece I did yesterday had a couple messed up edges and a defect toward one end on the face. So I cut all 4 sides off of it.
I then measured, and near as I could tell, it was perfectly square. (was ~ 23.75 x 17, so I couldn't use the calipers to verify.) Certainly better than anything I have cut before on other tools.

 

[Diversmn]

Send me an email and I'll reply with the PDF docs of the tables. They aren't drawings or plans but I photographed the build and annotated dimensions that should be easy to replicate.
**** Mahany

Hello, can you please send me the drawings and dimensions for this awesome outfeed and infeed table for my new dewalt 7491RS?

 

[Diversmn]

Send me an email and I'll reply with the PDF docs of the tables. They aren't drawings or plans but I photographed the build and annotated dimensions that should be easy to replicate.
**** Mahany

May I also the photos and dimensions to this awesome outfeed and infeed table?

 

[Diversmn]

I just picked up the 7491RS a few months ago...was able to build an outfeed table using plans that looked similar to Chevota's.

I am definitely interested in your infeed table pdf doc...as I can't figure out how to build one that requires modification (holes) to mount it (and I'd prefer not to drill holes in

 

[Diversmn]

Hello, do have drawings and dimensions for this awesome extension table?

 

[Diversmn]

I just picked up the 7491RS a few months ago...was able to build an outfeed table using plans that looked similar to Chevota's.

I am definitely interested in your infeed table pdf doc...as I can't figure out how to build one that requires modification (holes) to mount it (and I'd prefer not to drill holes in my saw).

Hello, did you get th PDF's of this extension table?
I would really appreciate getting a copy. Thank you.