I decided installing the adapter was likely the easiest part, so I ordered a new one (at three times the price for the larger size!) and proceeded with the rest of the installation. Fortunately I found an easily accessible gromment on the firewall (adjacent to the throttle cable) to route the sender's wiring into to the cab. I didn't want to pay the Autometer price for their A-pillar gauage pod, but it was the only one molded to fit correctly so I bought one. I got it all connected and working except for connectiong the temp sender. New hose adapter is supposed to arrive today so I hope to get it buttoned up tonight.
Which motor? Some of the Ford manifolds have a plug on one side of the intake you can use for the sender.I ordered a new water temp gauge for my F-150 last week. I asked Chat GPT the radiator hose size for the adapter to mount the sender. When I got ready to install the adapter I noticed it looked quite small compared to the hose. The adapter was for a 1.5" hose and turns out I need one for a 1.75" hose. A.I. fails again.
You should see what 12 can do in one night.......A fine morning of fixing forklift damage. An easy fifteen-minute job.
Pro tip one: Forklift always wins.
I'll have to straighten and flatten that metal trim:
The red angle corner protector is barely hanging on, so it'll get some love, too. Amazingly, the SS rub panel is holding up just fine, but it has to come off, too, as the metal trim has been pulled up from beneath it.
I'll use roofing tacks to anchor the metal trim back down. Screws give the forklift too much purchase and aren't easy to remove once bent all the hell and gone.
Pro tip two: When driving roofing tacks, hold them like this:
not like this:
It's amazing how much difference hitting fingers flat vs on edge makes in pain and injury.
Forklift vs. 1/4" lag bolt?
Forklift wins. I'll have to replace those with 5" bolts as the holes are torn out.
Trim metal flattisher, rub and corner protectors reinstalled. Time to hang rubber.
I like this silicone door seal. It's very easy to work with and has an adhesive strip on the back to hold it in place while I nail it off. The bottom with the SS plate will probably be left with nothing but the adhesive for now. No way I'm driving roofing tacks through that.
The other side doesn't take as much of a beating--not sure why.
I have a few pieces of that rigid seal. I'll get on it after lunch when the door is in the shade.
Thank Toyota, we have only one. Does plenty of damage all by its lonesome, thanks.
Was the operator the same as the repairman?
Nope!
I’ll look into that, thx. For the main kitchen, I’ve had good luck with Symmons units.
Reunification started in ‘89 and was finalized in 1990. I still remember watching the Berlin Wall fall on CNN that was quite a time.
Finished up the others:More coworkers asked for pencil cups and I wanted to make something different, so after a multiple step glue-up, I present the triangle:
I made five blanks, each of them came out striped slightly differently just by random chance. Not sure whether I like this or it's too busy.
This is why I've always installed a coolant temp gauge in one of the by-pass coolant lines that are always fed.
Put a old stock handle on my vintage Pexto ball peen. Then, like an *******, I grabbed the head after I ground down what was left of the wedge, checking to see if it was nice and tight. Nice burn to my paw now…. Brainless.
Steve
I do like to monitor when the thermostat opens.
You pretty much nailed it. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure that isn't the problem, as when I measured the output of the motor control contactor, it was 230-240. I have a feeling the 120V breaker is for the controls and there is another 2-pole for the higher voltage--in a different breaker box. Not very code if so.
