The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread

[Odd-job]

Really liking my Astro Tools 3019B. Had an old school Milton for years, but really like the digital display on this and the ability to bleed air. Useful when seating tubeless tires. While it has a beefy aluminum body the lever is plastic which I doubt will hold up as well as the Milton which has been run over by a car a few times at least.

 

[terrific]

Thanks for all the answers about the chain tools. It looks like the saddled part which helps align the chain is what makes the bike chain breakers unique. And having to match that part to the dimensions of the chain is what creates the incompatibilities. The Hozan solution is pretty cool.
Industrial chain breakers could benefit from the same part, but it would have to be interchangeable so that you could work on different size chains. Or maybe just have a set of fingers that could spread in and out, and basically clamp the rollers with it. I guess if we've made it this far without them, it's not really necessary, but you could say that about any incremental improvement.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Custom made manual bike stand, cause I cannot stand the available ones lol

 

[Meursault74]

Custom made manual bike stand, cause I cannot stand the available ones lol

Yeah, we're going to need closer detail pictures of the clamping area for the bike and the stand.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Ask and you shall receive
I need a horizontal reinforcement plate, between the two legs and no one seems to provide online laser servises in Germany. Also, a different clamping axle as the one I have is too short, but the cnc service says they cannot accommodate that. Weird, as they made the first one just fine.
If I had enough money to throw Id made it motorised and with a titanium 3d printed sliding support

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Nice clamp. I’ve been tempted to design my own with a big *** heavy duty bearing for flipping e-bikes over to remove motors, but instead bought two EVT stands. Might have to use your clamp as inspiration for a project down the road!

 

[HannibalLecter]

Nice clamp. I’ve been tempted to design my own with a big *** heavy duty bearing for flipping e-bikes over to remove motors, but instead bought two EVT stands. Might have to use your clamp as inspiration for a project down the road!

Yeah the clamp is cnc machined and it cost too much lol. Re flipping e bikes the best solution would be a worm gear and a motorised stand

 

[fishwatcher]

..As for the clik valves, once you try you never wanna go back. Only hassle is when you have to change a tube you have to unscrew and rescrew the valve core

I recently added Clik Valves to a few of my bikes.

Here are my observations.

1. Clicking on and off is convenient. It eliminates the hassle of screwing the presta top on and off to fill tires.
2. The minimal release of air when clicking on and off is also a nice feature.
3. If you have a vintage Silca Pista without the Schraeder end, the 2-in-1 adapter head’s barb fits perfectly on a new hose. I assume it also fits an old hose well.
4. I really wish it had a bleed valve. I believe Lezyne offers one, and ClikValve will likely offer one soon (as leaked by Seth from Berm Peak). Releasing air manually is not enjoyable.
5. My digital pressure gauge, a Topeak D2, does not work well with ClikValves.
6. The Silca Terra’s Schraeder head holds onto a Clik adapter well, although it’s a bit awkward. The release valve on the Terra is still great to have.
7. Silca has made a video comparing their products. I hope they make a Chuck that fits the Silca Terra seamlessly. Their screw-on Chuck fitting seems perfect for that. A nicer-looking Schraeder head for posts pumps would also be nice.
8. Since presta pumps are compatible with clik valves, I’ll probably never remember to bring the head adapter along for a ride. It won’t matter since my presta heads should work with these. I better test that with my pumps (tattico and co2 heads).

 

[fishwatcher]

One related update.

I have another Silca Pista pump that I have a new gauge coming in for. I stripped off the flaking paint and now it’s bare metal except for the original Silca sticker. Last night I put a Hiro Chuck on it. I think it looks good.

I could paint the body, or I could leave it bare. I would probably put some boiled linseed oil on it to protect it from rusting.

Any suggestions or votes for either choice? I have some new Silca stickers also. I could remove and replace the original sticker.

Thanks!

 

[Odd-job]

my vote is for bare metal. Floor pumps (and bikes) get banged around. Its hard to keep paint pretty.

Edit: liking the fire blanket in the background. I might need to copy that idea. Never know when you might catch yourself on fire!

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I’m a fan of bare metal for pumps. I switched all of our bikes over to click valves 6 months ago. So far no complaints and no clogging. All but one of our presta pumps will work. However I have the click chucks on most of them now.

Time will tell if it becomes a new standard. There are better valves out there but click hits the correct price point. As for bleeding air I just use the cap. Not as easy as a presta but zero issues bending the valve core.



Got the Andreani shaft clamps set up in the off set vise. So far they work well but wish they had a larger flat spot. Might end up switching to the LABA7 system. But that’s 3x the cost Or machining my own adapter with a larger flat spot. Still waiting on permits for the restroom : compressor room and all of the 220 circuits. It’s been over 6 months and zero progress there.

Speaking of LABA7 the vacuum pump is vaporizing a lot of oil. Got a call in to them to get that sorted. I will say the automatic bleed function works very well. When I get time I’ll probably try to optimize is with done custom settings to speed up the shocks I see more off. Will be really nice when the rest of the tanks arrive.

I’ve been buying tools like a drunk sailor setting up multiple workstations. I’m so backlogged after doing a soft opening last week it’s overwhelming and I need to find some staff asap. Which I suppose is a good problem. Growing pains I guess.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Have you bought special variants of non-bike tools to deal with bike problem scenarios?

My e-bike's chainring has a 10mm nut (external hex). It's recessed into a hole, only protruding ~1mm out of it. The gap between this and the frame in the most favourable rotation position is ~15mm. I'll get them off one way or another possibly by jamming them in the hole, but I took the excuse to find some tools that may help with this or something else in future.

KTC M27 offset double ring end wrench, with no chamfering, and rotationally offset heads too.


More photos from a member here.

Koken Zeal 2400MZ shallow thin wall socket, 13.5mm diameter and 15mm long in size 10mm. The shallowness is often a problem, so I also got the 2300XZ semi-deeps, to do the axle nuts of my pedals for which they need to pass down the threaded hole for the cap.

 

[BWWgarage]

Custom made manual bike stand, cause I cannot stand the available ones lol

Matches your bike well!!

 

[ChevyEFI]

Have you bought special variants of non-bike tools to deal with bike problem scenarios?

My e-bike's chainring has a 10mm nut (external hex). It's recessed into a hole, only protruding ~1mm out of it. The gap between this and the frame in the most favourable rotation position is ~15mm. I'll get them off one way or another possibly by jamming them in the hole, but I took the excuse to find some tools that may help with this or something else in future.

KTC M27 offset double ring end wrench, with no chamfering, and rotationally offset heads too.

Are the KTC wrenches the solution to your chainring, or are they on their way to you?

Do you know what the OEM tool is?

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Are the KTC wrenches the solution to your chainring, or are they on their way to you?

They're on their way from Japan with some other stuff, so will be a while. But yes, that's what I got them for, although it's at least possible to retighten loose ones with an open end wrench put on at an angle (not ring ends due to the chamfer).

I was wondering if chamferless wrenches existed and found this post on here about them. I know flat/chamferless sockets are available in larger sizes for suspension stuff, and of course you can always grind stuff down.

Do you know what the OEM tool is?

I don't know how these ended up on my bike. eThirteen crankset with SRAM chainring, so blame one of them. I had the bike shop fit a smaller chainring (also SRAM) from new, and the empty box for it I got contained normal chainring bolts/nuts.

Come think of it, the bike shop probably used one of these cut stamped chainring bolt spanners which suits all types, and has no chamfer. Never had a bike with chainring bolts before, so didn't remember these things existed. The KTCs will be nice to have anyway and they were cheap.




(not my photo - source)

 

[fishwatcher]

my vote is for bare metal. Floor pumps (and bikes) get banged around. Its hard to keep paint pretty.

Edit: liking the fire blanket in the background. I might need to copy that idea. Never know when you might catch yourself on fire!

I’m definitely keeping this one bare metal.

I replaced the broken gauge with a new one. It’s Silca, all metal, has a nice chrome ring, and best of all, the numbers are readable for my 50-something year old eyes! I’ve wiped it down with BLO, and love the end result.

@Odd-job Youre the first to notice the fire blanket. I don’t think I’ve posted about it. My wife bought a pack after seeing advertising.. and I thought my tool cave would be a good place to keep one.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

They're on their way from Japan with some other stuff, so will be a while. But yes, that's what I got them for, although it's at least possible to retighten loose ones with an open end wrench put on at an angle (not ring ends due to the chamfer).

I was wondering if chamferless wrenches existed and found this post on here about them. I know flat/chamferless sockets are available in larger sizes for suspension stuff, and of course you can always grind stuff down.


I don't know how these ended up on my bike. eThirteen crankset with SRAM chainring, so blame one of them. I had the bike shop fit a smaller chainring (also SRAM) from new, and the empty box for it I got contained normal chainring bolts/nuts.

Come think of it, the bike shop probably used one of these cut stamped chainring bolt spanners which suits all types, and has no chamfer. Never had a bike with chainring bolts before, so didn't remember these things existed. The KTCs will be nice to have anyway and they were cheap.




(not my photo - source)

I just ordered a set of specialty pliers from
CYCLUS in Germany that’s supposed to have tips for all of the different chain ring backs. The other side is through bored to get a hex or Torx driver to the head. We will see how they work.

Both of my EVT stands arrived this week. They are amazing!

 

[HannibalLecter]

Matches your bike well!!

that was the point, next will be a 3d printed titanium slider for the stand hehe

 

[duneslider]

What are you all using for your travel tool cases? I take a pretty extensive set of tools/parts with me to MTB races. I am currently using the craftsman versastack cases. It has worked okay just the way they came but it isn't great for the actual tool organization.

I have three of them currently, one just holds kind of bulk spare items (grips, pedals, sealant, derailleurs, shifters, levers). One is mostly full of the small organization bins and holds parts like brake pads, cables, bleed kit, etc. Then one has a few odds and ends of parts but is mostly loose tools. The loose tools has become a bit of a mess and I have realized I need to organize the tools better. Kind of thinking of using foam but not sure. Recently at a race a friend needed a spoke wrench for a messed up wheel, basically ended up nearly dumping the whole thing out to find the spoke wrench and that made me realize how bad my system is.

Curious if the direction I am thinking makes sense, or if buying something more specific for tools would be better and keeping what I have just for parts?

I mostly have doubles of tools, so I can leave my travel box mostly packed and then also have a full set of tools in the garage. I am always open to buying more tools...or buying tools that would be better to have in a travel kit.

 

[BWWgarage]

What are you all using for your travel tool cases? I take a pretty extensive set of tools/parts with me to MTB races. I am currently using the craftsman versastack cases. It has worked okay just the way they came but it isn't great for the actual tool organization.

I have three of them currently, one just holds kind of bulk spare items (grips, pedals, sealant, derailleurs, shifters, levers). One is mostly full of the small organization bins and holds parts like brake pads, cables, bleed kit, etc. Then one has a few odds and ends of parts but is mostly loose tools. The loose tools has become a bit of a mess and I have realized I need to organize the tools better. Kind of thinking of using foam but not sure. Recently at a race a friend needed a spoke wrench for a messed up wheel, basically ended up nearly dumping the whole thing out to find the spoke wrench and that made me realize how bad my system is.

Curious if the direction I am thinking makes sense, or if buying something more specific for tools would be better and keeping what I have just for parts?

I mostly have doubles of tools, so I can leave my travel box mostly packed and then also have a full set of tools in the garage. I am always open to buying more tools...or buying tools that would be better to have in a travel kit.

Travel = car or plane?

For car: I carry a fairly extensive tool kit to dirt bike track. This wouldn't work well for plane.
1. Backpack that has a bunch of internal/external tool pockets for most of my tools ... I haven’t found a more space efficient + organized way, I have a couple Plano fishing containers for small tools/supplies in backpack
2. Bigger tools and bigger supplies in a rigid packout equiv

Foam isn’t most efficient for space but unparalleled for organizing.


Toolbox wars on FB can waste an afternoon:

3K views · 467 reactions | Nice one @wrenchcraftcycleworks #toolsnotwar #toolearmy #toolboxwars | Tool Box Wars

Nice one @wrenchcraftcycleworks #toolsnotwar #toolearmy #toolboxwars

www.facebook.com

 

[duneslider]

Travel = car or plane?

Good distinction, this is for car. Space isn't a huge concern but I don't have unlimited space. But when we pull the camper I have no issue with space and have a bike stand, tools, spare wheels, etc. When we are just in the SUV space can get a little tight but I have a reasonable amount of space.

 

[BWWgarage]

A dedicated tool only box with shadow foam (similar to toolbox wars) would be tough to beat!

 

[kppolich]

Here's mine: Goals were Cheap, Clean, Small, and Functional.

Kobalt boxes from Lowes. ~$12 at the time of purchase in 2020 I think. I lives in my workbench from 99% of its life, quickly accessible if I need something. But can grab and go if needed.

I wasn't trying to keep everything in one box, so I have a little caddy for Brake Bleeding Tools that fit in the bottom of the box and I keep the Full Jagwire Kit on the side since I only do that at home anyway.

2 top compartments in the lid hold small DT grease, cut off Allen keys, SRAM AXS Derailleur Setup tools, and Super88 electrical tape/ESI finishing tape.


Top Level:
-printed off torque cheat sheet for my bikes.
-3d printed 3/8" rail for my common BB/Cassette sockets.




Lower Level:
-Bigger stuff that isn't used often, big boy torque wrench, chain tool, bleed tools, HS/BB press/ Hammer/Etc



Things that don't live in the box:
-Ball end metric hex
-Jagwire bleed kit



I've thought about joining the toolbox wars movement and a pelican - but really don't want a heavy and oblong $150 pelican with $100 in foam to sit in a drawer 99% of its life 'protecting my ~$250 in tools.

 

[ChevyEFI]

Good distinction, this is for car. Space isn't a huge concern but I don't have unlimited space. But when we pull the camper I have no issue with space and have a bike stand, tools, spare wheels, etc. When we are just in the SUV space can get a little tight but I have a reasonable amount of space.

Looking at examples of that collection;

Maybe stack one of their basic single lid boxes (full of spares, and slightly disorganized) on top of a clear lid, grid-organized box for small tools and spares so your access to them is quicker, and simpler.

 

[duneslider]

Looking at examples of that collection;

Maybe stack one of their basic single lid boxes (full of spares, and slightly disorganized) on top of a clear lid, grid-organized box for small tools and spares so your access to them is quicker, and simpler.

I currently have 3 of them, two are the clear top with the organizers and one is the solid lid. My top box has maybe half the organizers removed and basically the bigger tools dumped in the void. Smaller stuff, or regularly used stuff in the organizers.

Next one down is similar about half organizers and half void. The void in this one is mostly brake bleed stuff. That bin is in pretty good shape and I don't get into it that often on trips.

Bottom one really just has bulkier stuff in it, spare parts, grease, sealant, chains, etc.

It's mostly the tools that I need to get better organized as I have looked at the boxes a little closer. I'm thinking foam probably is my only good option. I am thinking probably 2-3 foam trays with cutouts for the tools. I have a buddy with a laser cutter, I wonder how well the foam can be cut with laser, might have to get a piece and have him try it.

 

[BWWgarage]

I currently have 3 of them, two are the clear top with the organizers and one is the solid lid. My top box has maybe half the organizers removed and basically the bigger tools dumped in the void. Smaller stuff, or regularly used stuff in the organizers.

Next one down is similar about half organizers and half void. The void in this one is mostly brake bleed stuff. That bin is in pretty good shape and I don't get into it that often on trips.

Bottom one really just has bulkier stuff in it, spare parts, grease, sealant, chains, etc.

It's mostly the tools that I need to get better organized as I have looked at the boxes a little closer. I'm thinking foam probably is my only good option. I am thinking probably 2-3 foam trays with cutouts for the tools. I have a buddy with a laser cutter, I wonder how well the foam can be cut with laser, might have to get a piece and have him try it.

You can do it yourself with Kaizan foam. Won’t be as perfect as laser cut but with some time and patience can be pretty darn good.

24''X 24'' Kaizen Foam Sheet | FastCap Foam | Custom Foam Inserts and Sheets

FastCap Kaizen foam sheets help organize your work station and make you more efficient. Looking for cheap Kaizen foam sheets for your toolbox or workstations? Or where to buy FastCap Kaizen Foam in Canada? Shop our FastCap Foam for your tool organization needs today! We offer Kaizen Foam in many...

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Kaizen Foam – Custom Tool Shadow Boards & Drawer Organization | FastCap

Kaizen Foam makes custom tool organization simple. Trace, cut, and peel for perfect shadow boards and drawers. Instant visual control — see missing tools at a glance. Available in Black, Black/White & Black/Red.

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[honcho]

Trek had a father's day promotion with $30 off a $100 or more purchase so I decided to see what they had in their sale/clearance section. I found a bunch of Unior tools on sale and among them was this Unior pliers wrench. Made in Slovenia, it's not as refined as a Knipex pliers wrench but it seems robust enough for bike tool box. I got my total up to just over $100 with a few other items to receive the $30 discount so the effective price for the pliers wrench was thirty something plus tax.

I wish one of plier wrench manufacturers would make a thin jaw version. I have an Engineer brand japanese made thin jaw adjustable wrench that i find handy working on bikes, particularly when adjusting cones on hubs. A pliers wrench version with thin jaws, i believe, would be a nice alternative.

 

[Odd-job]

Trek had a father's day promotion with $30 off a $100

Trek got me too. Also bought some Unior tools. Not sure when I'll need to use the M10X1.0 tap that I bought, but swear I was looking for one a couple of years ago...

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

this Unior pliers wrench

Interesting.

Pliers wrench jaw.
Alligator adjustment mechanism. No leverage multiplication like the Knipex Pliers Wrench.

 

[Meursault74]

Trek had a father's day promotion with $30 off a $100 or more purchase so I decided to see what they had in their sale/clearance section. I found a bunch of Unior tools on sale and among them was this Unior pliers wrench. Made in Slovenia, it's not as refined as a Knipex pliers wrench but it seems robust enough for bike tool box. I got my total up to just over $100 with a few other items to receive the $30 discount so the effective price for the pliers wrench was thirty something plus tax.

I wish one of plier wrench manufacturers would make a thin jaw version. I have an Engineer brand japanese made thin jaw adjustable wrench that i find handy working on bikes, particularly when adjusting cones on hubs. A pliers wrench version with thin jaws, i believe, would be a nice alternative.

I have the thin Jaw Channelock branded adjustable wrench (I think Irega makes it though). I've used it on the adjustment nut for threaded headsets to hold it in place when snugging up the lock nut. I haven't tried it on hubs, as I have the cone wrenches. I think the CL would be too thick for easy use given the spacing on the hubs adjusting flat and lock nut.

Given the decline in threaded headsets and cup and cone hubs, there may not be that much demand for this thin pliers wrench for bikes. My cone wrenches should outlast me at this point. I also have a thin headset wrench that fits several sizes as it is stepped. Wouldn't you know it, one of my headset adjustment nuts is an odd size out for this wrench, which is why I used the thin adjustable wrench.

 

[honcho]

I have the thin Jaw Channelock branded adjustable wrench (I think Irega makes it though). I've used it on the adjustment nut for threaded headsets to hold it in place when snugging up the lock nut. I haven't tried it on hubs, as I have the cone wrenches. I think the CL would be too thick for easy use given the spacing on the hubs adjusting flat and lock nut.

Given the decline in threaded headsets and cup and cone hubs, there may not be that much demand for this thin pliers wrench for bikes. My cone wrenches should outlast me at this point. I also have a thin headset wrench that fits several sizes as it is stepped. Wouldn't you know it, one of my headset adjustment nuts is an odd size out for this wrench, which is why I used the thin adjustable wrench.

My desire for a thin jaw pliers wrench goes beyond bike use, but you're right about modern "better" bikes. As for my fleet of bikes, cartridge bearings are the norm on most of them so, yes, little need for cone wrenches on those. It's all the inexpensive kid bikes I come into contact with that need the cone and headset adjustments!