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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Workshop Build 30x30x12 Ocala, FL

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.

wachuko

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Ocala, FL
Workshop Build 32'x30'x13' - Ocala, FL

Can't believe how long it has been since my initial thread with the dream garage that I wanted... this was back in 2008. Here is that thread:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18387

Fast forward to Oct 2016... we sold the 5 acres because it looked like we were never going to move there :( My dream of having my workshop ended there.

Or so I thought... Fast forward to this year and we are now looking at buying a house in Ocala... not on a big lot, only has 1/2 acre...corner lot. Great thing is that I can build a workshop there.

I will get into more details later, I just wanted to start the thread to start getting ideas. I have been searching and reading a lot of existing threads. Already incorporating a few ideas into this build.

Here is a rough plot plan of where everything will be...

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We sign the contract for the house this Saturday and will begin construction of the workshop a few months before the house is done... the plan is to be able to have everything build by the time the house is completed.

Because of the size of the lot, will not be able to go as big as I wanted... so 30'x40'x14' will have to do... I think that it will have to be a metal building because of the higher cost associated to any other type of building (still researching).

Some of the specs (still working on this and they might change based on feedback)

  • Size: 30'x40'x14' Metal construction, insulated walls and ceiling
  • Garage doors: Two 12'x12' roll up doors - as I need to be able to drive my Sprinter van-based RV (which is roughly 10'x10'x25') inside...
  • Door: One normal 36"x80" door on the side
  • Not sure about windows... reluctant to put any, but would like natural light... not sure what to do here.
  • 5" 3,500 psi concrete slab - again, not sure if I should spec something different... all I need is a two post lift install. Will take my MaxJax and will add a full size lift as well (maybe, budget permitting... but at least the MaxJax will be there.)

Everything is up in the air and can change, reason for this thread. I just did the initial homework. Now comes the fine tuning with all of your feedback. So far, it will look something like this:

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And this is a similar model of the house we are getting, that is my RV parked there. We went with my realtor (in the photo) to look at a model home of the same floor plan we are buying....

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The RV will not be parked all the time inside the workshop... one thing that I am thinking about is extending the concrete slab 12' x 40' and have it there when I have a project in the works (I have 3 cars projects in some state of incompletion :lol_hitti )

Will updated later tonight. Thank you in advanced for your comments!
 

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lakelandcat

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If you want to park the RV or put in a lift you might want to rethink that 4" slab. 40x30 is a great size, if you want to do a loft adjust accordingly. My shop is small compared to your plans but I was held back by city codes. Heat and Air might be another concern, that would justify the windows also. Enjoy the ride. Mike
 
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wachuko

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Ocala, FL
If you want to park the RV or put in a lift you might want to rethink that 4" slab. 40x30 is a great size, if you want to do a loft adjust accordingly. My shop is small compared to your plans but I was held back by city codes. Heat and Air might be another concern, that would justify the windows also. Enjoy the ride. Mike

What thickness would you recommend? The lift is for cars, not to raise the RV (that sucker weighs 11,000 lbs!).
 
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wachuko

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Okay... now with more time to document this... I do not have unlimited budget, reason for making this a metal building and not a concrete block build... need to keep cost under control... I wanted to get a rough estimate and called a local place. Estimate for them doing it all was US$29,700.00. This is for the following:

2 - 12’x12’ roll up doors (one powered)
1 - 10’x10’ roll up door
1 - single walk in door
1 - 30'x40'x14' structure
1 - 30'x40x4" @ 3,500 psi concrete slab
All labor and permits. Building meets local hurricane structure standards.

We did not get into more details since I did not wanted to waste their time so early in the process... that at least gave me an idea of what this would cost.

Thinking about extending it 5' to have space for a bathroom and more space in front of the cars... that would make it 30'x45' and increase the estimate build costs to a total of US$33,300.00


The intended purpose of the workshop is for working on my cars, not the RV. Being realistic about this, I am better off extending the concrete slab to add a carport for the RV. I have 3 project cars and one running project, so those are going to take up all the space in the garage as it is... no sense in lying to myself that the RV will be parked inside the workshop...

I could also have just one 12x12 door and the rest make them 10x10 :headscrat to save a few bucks... but the lack of symmetry on the two front doors would drive me nuts when looking at them... no, no, the two front doors will stay 12x12

So a few questions:

  1. Does the estimate from the local company sounds inline with what a structure this size goes for installed? They estimated about 24-25.00 per square feet... I can get a more accurate estimate once I am closer to actually building it (this should be in about 6 months).
  2. First thing I see is that I should reconsider the thickness and specs of the concrete slab.... to what? 5" @ 4,000 psi?
  3. I want the whole thing insulated. This is Florida and it gets hot as heck pretty much year around... so I want to install an A/C as well
  4. I do want vents. Guessing these are the ones that I see in the roof... but some extractor fans in the wall might be also in order.
  5. What about windows... I wanted to avoid those for security purposes... but would welcome the natural light. Any available alternatives for that for a metal building?

I will then have to run electrical and water to the building... I need to see what that will mean for the house that I am building. Need to confirm if they build it with a 200 amp service. So that I can tap into that to power the workshop...

I extended the main house garage by 4' but wife is looking for this house to be the first one where she will be able to actually park her car in the garage... so not like I will be able to do anything there... motorcycles and daily drivers will be parked in there...

All for now... thanks
 

wasfast

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Just be cautious with "estimates". You want to have a very specific list of what's included and not. Insulation as an example may well be a cost adder if not listed.

For Natural light, you could consider a couple skylights, just fixed versions. If the thieves go to the trouble to climb onto the roof, cut open the skylights and jump in, they're far more determined than most.
 

BassProCamaro97

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What thickness would you recommend? The lift is for cars, not to raise the RV (that sucker weighs 11,000 lbs!).

It depends on the lift manufacturer and if you go four post or two. Bendpak calls out 4.25" or 6.5" for conc. thickness but some models require an 8" thickness.

Another thing to consider is building a pad with an 8" depth where the lift is going to go and 4-6 in the rest of the garage.

~Jim~
 
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wachuko

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Just be cautious with "estimates". You want to have a very specific list of what's included and not. Insulation as an example may well be a cost adder if not listed.

For Natural light, you could consider a couple skylights, just fixed versions. If the thieves go to the trouble to climb onto the roof, cut open the skylights and jump in, they're far more determined than most.

Understood... at the time of the call, I just wanted a ballpark figure as I had no clue... after the feedback in this thread and ongoing reading that I am doing of all the builds here, I can then make a list with all the specs I want. With that I should be able to sit down with the builder/vendor and get an accurate number.

Great idea on the skylights. Will add those to the list. Thank you.
 
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wachuko

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It depends on the lift manufacturer and if you go four post or two. Bendpak calls out 4.25" or 6.5" for conc. thickness but some models require an 8" thickness.

Another thing to consider is building a pad with an 8" depth where the lift is going to go and 4-6 in the rest of the garage.

~Jim~

Jim,

Right now all that I have is the MaxJax... that one requires 4" @ 3,500 psi. This is the one you can move around and bolt down when needed... plan is to have it so that I can bolt it in different locations in the workshop. Similar to how I have it now at home.

DSC09305Custom_zps837ed979.jpg


If I am able to get another one, it would be a BendPak two-post asymmetric lift... reason for maybe going with 5" slab instead of 4"...

Your idea of just doing a thicker pad where the lift would go is a good one... So maybe just do 5" now for all the slab and if I ever get something that requires a thicker pad, then cut out the slab and pour a thicker section where the posts would go... :thumbup:
 
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wachuko

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Ocala, FL
Rough sketch... just using a spreadsheet with squared grid to try to draw to scale...

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wachuko

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Still works in 30' x 40' .... might stick to original plan then...

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wachuko

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Went to sign all the paper work and to look again at a model home and one that is being constructed (with some of the options we want)... Got to see the size of the septic tank and the amount of space the drain field takes... all in all, almost 60' long... :wtf: This house has it towards the right of the house (when looking at the house from the front)... I am asking the builder to install ours on the left side to clear the path to the workshop...

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Had to move things around a bit. Oriented the workshop differently. Will forget about trying to get to it from the side (left side facing the street when you look at the house from the front), instead will have to drive along the right side of the house (when looking at the house from the front...)

Updated the plot plan to better visualize what goes where and the space it will take...

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Will forget about having a bathroom in it for now as there is one that I can access from the lanai...

Here is the sketch for the workshop modified... I dropped the side 10'x10' door. I just do not want to risk driving anything close to that drain field. OR should I keep it??

The smaller squares are just locations of where I can move the MaxJax that I have... I will just have anchors in each bay to be able to move it around and bolt in those places when needed.

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Also looking at what I can use to make a driveway to the back... Had to look back at photos as I remembered that a friend had used cinder blocks on its side (and filled with gravel) to make one... might do the same and fill it with dirt and grass... Would like to avoid having to pour 100' of concrete on the side of the house :eyecrazy: Other ideas are welcomed...

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wachuko

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Do not mind me... just collecting a few photos of similar builds... asking a friend that is in the construction business to quote me the build using cinder blocks... so it looks similar to this one... want to see what the price jump would be.

Garage is from a fellow forum member (he is also from Florida). Similar build but I want 12'x12' doors:

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Edit: Forgot to include the thread for his build:

https://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152794

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Lof8

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Plans are looking good. I just got done building a 37.5 x 40 x 14 metal garage in Bradenton, FL. I was close to $40k for the slab and building. Its been a long and tedious road, but I'm super happy wih the finished product. Good luck!
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wachuko

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Plans are looking good. I just got done building a 37.5 x 40 x 14 metal garage in Bradenton, FL. I was close to $40k for the slab and building. Its been a long and tedious road, but I'm super happy wih the finished product. Good luck!

Thank you! I was quoted around 30K for a metal building similar to yours (including everything...labor, slab, permits, structure, etc.). So looks like pricing is inline with what you paid (when calculating it by square feet). :thumbup: Does not include driveway...

I like the loft you built inside... great idea!! :thumbup:

What are the specs on those doors? 10x10? 10x12? 12x12

Great to see something similar to what I want. Thank you for the photos.
 

Lof8

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the doors are 12 x 12. I'll follow along with your progress here since you're pretty close and building something pretty similar.
 
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wachuko

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the doors are 12 x 12. I'll follow along with your progress here since you're pretty close and building something pretty similar.

Sweet! :thumbup: Yeah! I just shared all the photos with my wife. It is like looking into the future and seeing ours built :bounce: trees and all!! lol.
 
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Lof8

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LOL! Glad you liked it. I spent a lot of time trying to find pictures and stories of people doing something similar to my plans, so i figured it may be a help to share mine. :)
 

rmack898

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Wachuko,

I'm just a little east of you and a little bit ahead of you. Our house should be done around the first of the year.

My shop is 40x60x14 red iron that I hope to have completed in the next 3 weeks.

I'll be following along to keep an eye on your build.

Just be aware that posting a build in Florida will require a post construction inspection from the Florida chapter and they can be quite particular in what gets approved, not to mention that they can leave with half your **** upon departure.:evil:
 

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aventino68

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Any chance you can get the pitch of garage and colour to match house? Just a thought, Im also tonight with finances.
 
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wachuko

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Any chance you can get the pitch of garage and colour to match house? Just a thought, Im also tonight with finances.

Great suggestion. Will make sure that I ask for that!!

Right now waiting for my friend to give me the numbers for cinder block construction...

All done with all the paperwork for the house. Construction of the house starts in two weeks :bounce:
 
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wachuko

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Got the final plot plan from the builder... this is for the house. With that I made my final plot plan with the building in place.... so now to wait until the house is done to then build the shop... Property was cleared and land was leveled...

Constructions has started. Can't wait for it to be done!!

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wachuko

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Drastik

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This is similar to what I'm looking at building on my future land. We are set to close on the house/land in April, and the lot size is similar. Following along.
 
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wachuko

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Stopped by yesterday... they are getting ready to pour the concrete for the house...:bounce:

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As you can see, I will have to clear some trees when I start the build for the shop... it gets built on the right back corner... Trees are about 15-20' buffer from the next lot in the back...
 

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tarmy

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Looks good OP...:beer:

I lived in West Palm Beach decades ago...went through a couple hurricanes. What are the issues with a metal building like these...do they do OK in these conditions?

We have our earthquake design standards here that really beef up the buildings and roof attachment systems...

Just curious what concerns you may have...thanks.
 
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wachuko

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Looks good OP...:beer:

I lived in West Palm Beach decades ago...went through a couple hurricanes. What are the issues with a metal building like these...do they do OK in these conditions?

We have our earthquake design standards here that really beef up the buildings and roof attachment systems...

Just curious what concerns you may have...thanks.

I have the same concerns... metal building construction should be good up to 140 miles/hour winds... But yeah, reason why I want to get a quote on a similar structure as the house. But I need to wait until the house is built before I can get a quote...

I added 4' to the garage in the house as well, but that only takes it to 29'x26'. Similar to what I have now... and wife is looking forward to parking her car, for the first time ever, inside our garage... so I can't make any plans with that space :lol_hitti

If cost does not jump radically for a concrete block construction, that is the route I would prefer...
 
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wachuko

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We got floor and walls!! Also the lot behind us got sold, that means a clear property line to build the fence. And already identified the trees to use for our hammock!

I do not plan to get rid of the buffer of trees that we have in the back... only removing just what is needed for the workshop.

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Framing crew is also onsite... wooohooo :thumbup: :beer:
 

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floridasailor

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wachuko

I was looking at your proposed layout and have a suggestion. I would move the shop 2 feet to the right (away from the 170' lot line). This would make it easier for you to park boats, trailers, cars etc. between the fence and the shop.
 
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wachuko

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wachuko

I was looking at your proposed layout and have a suggestion. I would move the shop 2 feet to the right (away from the 170' lot line). This would make it easier for you to park boats, trailers, cars etc. between the fence and the shop.

Had not thought of that... makes sense. I was trying to, as much as I could within the limited lot, not have the workshop be the whole back view from the house... but 2'-3' is not going to make a difference and will allow a 10'-11' space on that side. :thumbup:
 
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wachuko

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This will start looking like a real house in no time!! Then it is off to start on the workshop!!

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wachuko

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This was the update as of last Friday... waiting on an updated photo from this week.

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House is about an hour drive away. With the stay at home situation we rely on the realtor (he lives in the same neighborhood where the house is being built) to take photos and share... :beer:
 

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wachuko

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Coming along nicely! Similar build to mine, excited to see it finished.

Thank you!

House coming along nicely!! They are now telling me that it might be ready by early July! :thumbup: I sure hope so!

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I know I should be exited about the house...but I just want to start building the workshop :bounce:
 

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