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I’m the end, they both have the same likelihood of leaking. Done properly with no screw on the ridge(stitch), or with screwed on flats and the stitch. The bigger influence will be the installer. For the first reason being no real difference, it comes down to appearance and in my opinion a...

I finally got the print to stick. The painters tape worked great. I didn’t wanna try sprays because I read the petg will stick so good it’ll wreck the glass. 85 bed temp to start the down to 80 and 245 extruder temp the whole way. I only let the fan get to 33%. Had some very minor stringing.

Because everyone and their dogs say they don’t leak but has never looked. They just assume it isn’t leaking because their ceiling isn’t dripping. No reason to be an as*hole about it. I’ve climbed and peaked on occasion into my attic and sometimes when it rains. But I take pride in what I do and...

You climb in your attic and check when raining? Bang on. I had to tell the mfg what flashings and sizes to supply with the snap lok tin I was buying from them. Lol they quoted me regular screws with washers. I said if I wanted holes all over my roof I’d buy regular tin at 1/2 the price.

Screwing on the rib is pour installation technique and ugly. Screw on the flats. It’s a slipped roof so water doesn’t sit. Get your laps nice and tight. It’s referred to as stitching up here, when you screw on the rib. And imo should only be a last resort to keep that joint tight. The screws...

X2 that looks interesting. Would have thought you’d need 100% infill too. It looks like maybe abs?

Can’t seem to catch luck on this print. Was at about 50% and the power went out. Been out for 45 min now. Not sure how it will take to resuming the print. If it will bond or not.

I’m new to printing so bare with me. I’m running 245. My printer is a cr10 v2. Not sure how that compares to the ender. What do you mean by e-steps? My flow is set to 100 percent. I believe I was getting .61mm wide when I measured a strip. Maybe none of this makes sense lol trying to learn.

How hot are you running the bed? The tape seems to be staying down so far.

I am using brim on the last 2. I layed down blue painters tape. See how it makes out this time.

I’ve got a direct drive coming that I ordered when I ordered the printer. Maybe I’ll try laying some blue painters tape on my glass bed. I don’t want to try hairspray as I’ve read petg can stick bad enough to damage the glass. Would the lifting of the same end both times have something to do...

The piece I’m making is larger then the overture piece they include with their rolls. But I have a couple. I wonder if it can be placed on the glass without damaging the glass? It looks to have a removable peel and stick layer. Your thinking the price should stick tot he overtire better? I was...

I’m getting the petg to print now a little better. But I’ve still had to abort after 4 hours on 2 prints because the small round end lifts off the bed. Like it’s warping. 245 extruder temp and 85 bed for first layer and 80 after that. I turn extruder fan off for first few layers then on to 35%.

I’m not sure how to figure out if I have one dialed in or not lol I have the speed dialed down for the first layer to 20mm/a I believe

I went to 245/95 on my creality glass bed and it was adhereing. So I think I got that fixed. But can’t seem to figure out why it won’t do small infills without bunching.

Having some petg blues. It seems to want to clump when it’s doing close infill. I managed to print a keychain. 245 degree nozzle and 92 bed temp for first layer then 240 and 85 after that. It turned out not bad. But still couldn’t get other prints to work.

My creality came from China in little over a week. Amazon stuff took 3 weeks lol

It’s here. Set it up and try it out

What does Milwaukee have that you can’t get in makita?

4’ or so. I recommend a small compressor too