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I would say your calculations are more accurate than your friends. 8" for the smaller rooms should work well, just use take-offs that have dampers for any needed air adjustments. 14" for the large area looks good too.

18k for cooling is likely adequate, but the BTUs required for heat may be warranting 24k. The hyper heat type models are able to go down to -15F for heat, so make sure the other units you spec out can do the same.

If the space is maintaining the setpoint without excessive run times under normal operating conditions, then you have sized the unit correctly. Sounds like your garage is pretty well insulated, thus allowing for a little bit smaller unit vs. going solely on square footage.

I've installed both Mr Cool and Blueridge furnace and central AC's. Both are nearly identical. No complaints of quality given the price. I also just became an authorized distributor in the state of Wisconsin for Mr Cool. I think you'll be good with either one.

The manufacturer charging chart should get you close to where you need to be. ODT is for outdoor temperature, the slash numbers for IDT (indoor temperature) appear to be for wet and dry bulb temps. Is there a reason you can't pump down the lineset and evap into the condenser, or is that where...

Anyone have a 20 or 15 percent coupon they don't need? Zoro never seems to send me anything anymore...

Agreed, the service seems to be declining, unfortunately. I'm also thinking about taking my money elsewhere.

Great place to get HVAC and plumbing stuff. No complaints or issues with them. Shipping seems to be pretty quick as well.

It is still possible but I wouldn't suspect a bad heat exchanger on a 6 year old furnace. There might be a crack in the condensate collector/header box. This is the part that sits behind the inducer motor. If it's not an emergency, I would wait to disassemble anything until spring. Just make...

If you have a mystery leak with no obvious trace in sight, it is probably a good idea to check the secondary heat exchanger. Best way to do that is to remove the blower fan in the lower compartment and see if there is rust or water on the bottom of the secondary heat exchanger. If you see...

You're likely going to need a manometer to troubleshoot any further. According to Mr Heater, gas line pressure on the INLET of the gas valve needs to be at least 13" WC. On the outlet of the gas valve, under fire, the burner/manifold pressure should be right around 10.4" WC. You may have too...

According to Mr Heater, with propane/LP, you need 13" WC to the INLET of the gas valve. After the gas valve (burner side/manifold) you should be at least 10.4" WC. Sounds like you may need a different regulator. Under fire the burner pressure should be at least 10.4" WC.

I've never installed a heater like that, but I would assume that so long as your vertical piping is more than 75 percent of your horizontal, then it should be considered a vertical install.

I agree that it should cause an error code under normal circumstances. I have seen odd instances where flame and pressure switch issues for some reason won't cause a fault indication. Hard to troubleshoot without seeing the unit run. Not sure if the board on the Big Maxx heaters use a timer to...

Venting can be pretty confusing compared to older code. The way I'm reading current requirements, the system is defined as vertical if the horizontal distance is less than 75% of the vertical distance. So if it's vertical, you can use Cat 1 B vent. If it's horizontal, you need to use Cat 3...

If the burner is turning on and off during a call for heat, you may have poor carry over on the burners due to incorrect gas pressure, dirty burners (sooted) or a flame sense issue. Easiest thing to do is clean the flame sensor with some emery cloth or a wire brush and see if that corrects the...

Unit is wired correctly. Like others have said, check thermostat programming to make sure it's not programmed for a different temperature. Thermostats are cheap enough, I would just replace it and eliminate that as the issue.

It appears you have wired it correctly, but without having a schematic of the heater it's hard to know for certain. If you have a multimeter, an easy test to determine if the stat is at fault is to put the leads at heaters terminal block across R and W. When the room reaches the temp setpoint...

Tee should connect right in with your existing piping. The Selkirk B vent catalog shows exactly how to connect it with the lock tabs. B vent doesn't technically need to be air tight, but red high temp silicon on the cap won't hurt anything. Cap should press or be tapped in with a mallet without...

Looking at your pics, it appears you should only need the flex pipe, tee and cap to make it work. The flex pipe has one end that already has the 'draft hood' connection, the other end should connect to your tee so long as the horizontal run is under 2.75 ft. Flex vent would be your horizontal...