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Most B vent manufacturers usually state 1 inch clearance to combustibles. Regarding your vent location through the roof, it may not be a good spot. Looking at IFGC 503.6.4, you need at least 8 feet from a vertical wall or similar obstruction. Also need to pay attention for air intakes or...

If the pressure switch isn't closing, and no other safeties are tripped, you could have an obstructed flue pipe. To test, pull the flue pipe off the furnace but don't leave it that way. It's only for testing. If it fires, there is an obstruction.

Without consulting with the proper charts and doing some calculations, my initial gut instinct is that tapping off a 1/2" line that could be toward the end of the piping run is cutting it too close in terms of its ability to handle extra BTU's. Without the dryer running it might be ok, but might...

I use an evacuation tee or manifold with ball valves on the end. Shut the ball valve off before turning the pump off and it won't siphon out of the pump into the manifold or system.

I hope you didn't get a bunch of pump oil into the AC system. If you didn't isolate the pump from the system before shutting the pump off, the oil from the pump can migrate/travel into the system. Since the standing vacuum in the AC system is stronger than the pump without it running, there is...

Honestly, if you have no clue about proper materials, clearances, and practices, you might be better off having a licensed HVAC guy do the work. I'm not trying to be a *****, but giving advice over the internet doesn't typically cut it in terms of safety. You are dealing with situations...

You might need this fitting... https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/venting/high-efficiency-appliance-venting/saf-t-vent-reg-4-category-iii-appliance-adapter/9464-1p/p-1444453722267.htm Goes from the heater outlet to cat 3 vent pipe

That sheet metal looks like it was folded on the edge of a ladder or something... Apparently these guys never heard of a portable brake. Is that a twinned air handler? I can't see where the return is based on the picture angles.

Not the best install I've seen. The duct mastic looks really thin and didn't cover joints all that great. Is that appliance cord powering the air handler? Hard to tell by the pics if the duct transition angle from the air handler is too steep. It could be contributing to higher static pressure...

I agree with the others who mentioned that nothing outside of the contractor doing a load calc warranted upsizing the unit. A bigger unit wont fix undersized ductwork. In my area, a lot of homes either had no apparent rhyme or reason to why the ductwork was sized the way it is, or was sized for...

Try pulling the filter and see if that helps with noise, but don't leave it that way. Sounds like the installers need to come back and test static pressure. Fan speeds may be too high. Merv 11 is pretty restrictive if the ductwork is undersized.

Do you have a single common return vent or returns in various rooms? Did the contractor check static pressure of the duct system? (There will likely be holes drilled in the air handler and duct work at various points in they did) If the air handler was upsized, the fan speeds at the rated static...

Likely time to call someone in or get a new fridge. If you are positive the defrost cycle was working and there is zero frost on the evap coil, you likely have a sealed system issue.

Since you already cleaned the condenser coil and both fans are working and the compressor is continuously running, checking the defrost cycle and verifying the coil isn't frosted over is your next step before dealing with the sealed system. If all else has checked out, you could have a...

At those temps and set points your coil shouldn't be freezing. Check filter and air flow. If those check out good, I would suspect a charge issue.

Looks like a Nibco brand valve, which appears to be rated for indoor use only. https://www.nibco.com/valves/ball-valves/gas-ball-valves/

That gas line install is a bit questionable. The unistrut should have been mounted to the concrete generator pad. I am also questioning the gas shut off being rated for outdoor use.

6500 for 80 percent furnace and 14 Seer AC seems right for my area (WI). The difference between 14 and 16 Seer is usually just an expansion valve vs. a piston. Can't see upcharging an additional 1500 for a valve, that's a bit unreasonable.

Are the furnaces as old as the AC units? If so, might make more sense to do full scale system replacements. The prices they quoted are not unreasonable. To do a 5 ton unit would require major duct work replacement, very expensive and intrusive to the building. At least with three separate units...

The manufacturer has probably determined that a 5 ft length will establish proper draft and combustion. Too short of a flue pipe could end up allowing too much oxygen to the burners and not a good fuel mixture.