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I ran across this Wilton 450 the other day, on the Facebook marketplace. Owner says he bought it new in 2001, and it's in its original condition. Ask is $300. It's local, so no shipping. What say the experts?

And make certain, when you're pouring the pad, that a worker doesn't step on the conduit. I had this happen, which caused the conduit to break at a joint and then fill with concrete. Didn't catch it until weeks later when we were fishing the lines.

Working red iron over concrete can be dangerous work. Falling or dropping bolts or tools on someone below can result in life-changing or fatal injuries. Who covers the workman's comp or liability insurance for these "cash paid" workers?

Agreed also. It's the loaded tenders (and what good is an unloaded tender) that will carry the most weight. Maybe have dedicated stalls for the tenders and increase the concrete in front of them? The rest of your pad as described should carry engines and towers,

SMOKE IN THE COMFORT OF YOUR OWN HOME, IF THAT’S WHAT YOU WISH. I hate nannyism.

And for something different, try a Bazooka instead of a Banjo. Very quick and minimal sanding once you get the hang.

Look at BC Steel Buildings out of Oklahoma City. They've been in business since 1972. I first started erecting their buildings in 1974, and those buildings are still going strong 46 years later. Small enough company to still get excellent customer service. https://www.bcsteel.com/

Would a topographical survey and grading plan be of benefit to show your homeowner's insurance adjuster in the event your property gets flooded in the future? It would show due diligence.

When cutting plywood mark both ends of the cut with a pencil. Next make a 1" cut along your mark line then place the line in the kerf and pull tight. This works a lot better than hooking the funky metal clip on the edge.

My experience has always been that deminsion lumber runs anywhere from an 1/8" to 1/4" long. Being 3/4" short tells me that someone cut it to length and the returned it.

Good advice on ringing a wheel. But many may not know how or why. Here's some guidence. It should be done on any wheel, old or new, before mounting. Here's a quick link:

I like having two doors exactly opposite of each other to facilitate a "Drive Through" so you don't always have to back things out. On these two doors, I would go as tall as possible and then have a couple of 10x10's on the side. This is helpful when you have a lot of vehicles or "stuff" as it...

I bought that exact SK socket set at a Tru-Value in the late '70s.They were my first set of quality tools. I still have the full set, including the 1" extension and metal box.. The SK ratchets were very underrated. Mine works great 40 years later.

Vintage American made power tools with a cord have close to no value at all. No one wants a cord attached anymore. Couldn't get $5 apiece at a yard sale.

I like stabilizer jacks at the rear of the trailer. Helps when loading heavy equipment and allows you to load/unload when not coupled.

Yes, they are dangerous and somewhat awkward to use. They represent a time of at least two era's ago in power tools; Before the cordless revolution and before the corded power tools became affordable and popular. A time when the only power tool most owned was a corded 1/4" power drill. Driving...

I have attached them to a small 3/8" VSR drill and they seem to do very well. Does anyone have any interest in them?

I came across these at an estate sale. They are four small tools, two circular saws, and two saber saws, that have no motors. They all have a shaft that fits into the chuck of a 1/4 power drill, which provides power to the tool. I'm not certain of the age of these tools, but my thinking is they...

Place two 2x6's about 18" apart, angled next to the house, one end resting on the ground and the other tacked to the fascia board. I have a pair of Vice-Grips that have an I-bolt MIG-welded onto the handle. Tie a 20' piece 3/8" rope through the handle of the I-bolt and a good knot on the other...