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I stumbled upon this on eBay (listed very poorly) for a tiny fraction of what it would cost new (and it does appear basically new), so I bought it just because... ya know, machinist buying machinist things. Never have used it.

To me, if the top is a clamshell style, it's a cart. If it's all drawers, it's a toolbox.

I share the same, generally unpopular sentiment. I think "tool carts" make zero sense. Get a tool box, or a cart. If I can't set something on top of my box and still get to all of my tools, it's generally worthless.

I held off for as long as I could. I was at HF 2 days ago buying something I actually needed, and the end cap with the mini boxes for $15 made me stop... I do love the bright green. When I picked it up and felt how heavy it was, I lost that $15 immediately. Right now it's sitting on my desk...

If you're removing rust, it's going to flash rust, doesn't really matter how you take the rust off. I'd bet the difference in how quickly the flash rust appears is more related to (like you said) how fast you rinsed/dried/coated it, or even weather on that particular day... temp/humidity.

I absolutely love mine. Very surprisingly nice little tool for a great price.

I can't remember exactly, but I believe this came from the in-laws, who always give me tools they find "from the ancestors". I've gotten some real sweethearts from them. No idea on the age, I haven't really looked into it. She deserves a little cleanup though.

This is one of my biggest points when people ask "battery vs gas" yard tools. My gas powered equipment will be serviceable basically forever. I bought my weedwacker well over a decade ago, used, for $20. It still works just fine (albeit sometimes cantankerous). I've had to put a few new...

If your bench vise can't press in a bearing (note, it should never have to) your bearing fits are WAY way off.

Measure the interference. Usually proper bearing fits are basically a zero fit. AKA, heat the sprocket with a torch, and the bearing should fall right in.

Every once in a while I get a wild hair and look for gas powered power tools on ebay/CL etc. I want some. For no reason.

I'm sure he was, but making a long drive for a knee mill isn't the same as a long trip for a drill press or some hand tools.

OP said things like drill press, table saw etc. Not mills and engine lathes. Different situation.

A more precise location would help. Stationary tools from that era are many times a dime a dozen unless they're super high quality. It's not worth most peoples' time to make a long drive for them if they're not priced well.

Man, I worked in a few electric motor shops (granted, as the machinist, not a mechanic, but still ended up doing a lot of mechanic work) and never found a shaft key that a pair of pliers and/or hammer and dull-ish chisel couldn't get out with relative ease.

I don't think I've ever run across a metric hose clamp. And besides my '92 F250 and '69 F250, basically all of our cars have been German for the last decade or so. They're almost always 5/16 (which an 8mm will substitute for nicely most of the time)

I use my 5.5mm ALL the time. It's the nut size for a 3mm bolt. In fact, I've bought a number of 5.5mm wrenches as singles for just that purpose. I don't remember ever using a 5mm or 6mm though.

Google said it started in '73

This. Is. The. Answer. If it doesn't rust after you "degrease" it, then you either did a bad job or used the wrong solvent. Don't get me wrong, I use diesel to "clean" my motorcycle chains, but if I want something to be CLEAN, diesel doesn't get anywhere near it. If you want to REALLY...

Good luck finding a die for this There are a LOT of threads that dies simply don't exist for. I used the hell out of my thread files as a rotating equipment machinist, repairing old shafts. Sometimes I was cutting threads that were something wild like 8"-12tpi