Search results

I have a decent welding helmet, its a Speedglas autodarkening adjustable darkness/response. But I'm CONSANTLY messing with the knobs on the side to find a happy medium of friction to hold it up and let it down. Seems to quickly loosen up. Been this way since new or shortly after new. I see...

I have read that some systems use a thermometer in the concrete? What goes in the concrete to do this, wires, pex with sensor etc? Thanks

Ever have problems removing Alen head bolts/screws where the wrench spins in the Alen and rounds off. I was fighting with this and got out the impact driver which has a square drive like a ratchet and used the Alen sockets and was able to get the bolts loose as the impact pushes the wrench into...

Google is not helping me much on this one. My shop is going to need some retaining walls since I'm building into a hill. And it freezes up here in WI. Original plan was 8' tall retaining walls sitting on a 12" wide, 4' deep footing, 100' long. Well, with the wall, the footings and the floor...

In the spirit of trying to make my shed/shop look like a barn, I'm going to put one or 2 cupolas on it. I would like to see picts of others, along with the external dimensions of the building listed One builder said 2 cupolas on a 50' long building will look silly. Maybe?

We moved last August to a newer larger house in the country with a 2 car attached, but no outbuilding other than a sketchy 16x16' joke of a garden shed. Last house had a 20x24 detached which was a nice start, but no room for work and storage. SO, need to build a big shop/storage shed. Kicked...

Saw a video on U tube where before pouring concrete they put down plastic sheet, taped the joints with that red insulation tape, then put 4x8' foam board on top of that with no tape at the joints, then the in floor heat pipes. Is this common, or do most just tape the joints of the foam?

I'm getting quotes of $50k just for the shell of my building, and that's not including concrete, excavation etc. Looks like $5-10k will buy an older 70s-80's tractor loader backhoe. Problem with something like that is it could become a money pit FAST. Anyone else bought one and resold it...

I was thinking 30' deep would work real well, truck is 20' long, would give room for a workbench in front and room to work all the way around a vehicle. Then the pole barn guys (2 different companies now) said that if I want to put steel on the ceiling for blow in insuation the trusses need to...

I'm 6'3" tall. I'm spec'ng a building that will have at least 14' sidewalls, I was looking at the Bendpack XPR10 lift, and even with the 2' column extenders (they go on top for high roof vehicles), the arms only go up to 6' tall. Are there other options that lift higher? Would be nice to not...

For appearance, and functionality reasons, I'm leaning towards a monitor style shop. Most buildings of this style are for horses with a single aisle down the middle and stalls in the lean toos. I would like to expand the center to something like 24-30' so I can have 2 cars parked side by side...

I have an Extended cab 1/2 ton with 6.5' foot bed now. Will probably get a crew cab next time. Other cars are a VW Golf and a Toyota Sienna van, and a 1950 1/2 ton Chevy truck. Am thinking something along the lines of a BendPak XPR10 or XPR10A (asymmetric). for a lift. What you would...

Just bought a house with only a 2 car attached garage and want to put up a big storage/workshop. Thinking 36" wide at the peak end, and 48" long on the side walls. 12 or 14' ceilings, but only for a car lift, otherwise don't need nearly that high to park and work on cars, lawn mowers...

Buddy of mine did about 15 years ago and raves about the strength and insulation value as well as ease of construction (he did it all him self). Did a search on this forum for it and got zero results. Looking to do an aprox 30x50 with 12 or 14' Sidewalls. And I'm in WI (we have that white...