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Wanted to bump this thread back up as I am about to add some exterior lighting to my shop... I will be mounting between two high ribs, similar to @kj_mustang above.. has anyone just used a round remodel box with the flange on the front of it? Add a vertical 2x6 behind it, hole saw the size of...

Several local lumberyards had it

A few things to add since I started this thread.. I do have house wrap on my shop, which I did for 2 reasons; 1) to help mitigate some drafts and wind through the steel, which should help the effectiveness of batt insulation, and 2) if I decide to spray foam, I don't stick the foam to the...

Yep.. but my posts were also 5 feet shorter and didnt need to be treated, so my permacolumns were $2300, but my posts were $1300 cheaper or something like that.. To be clear, these did not have posts attached to them.. just the 5' permacolumn with a bracket on it. My posts were another $2400.

I saw that Marshal Remodel video.. and it kinda freaked me out a little. Is the foam board cost effective? Last time I priced that stuff for under my slab, it was about $1/sq ft.. with around 2000 sq ft of wall in my shop, and then still needing to put batt insulation in behind it, it would be...

You probably want house wrap though so that your foam doesn't stick to the inside of the metal, in case you ever have to put new metal on. I just built a 40x48x14 this past summer.. I went with perma-columns. I priced those vs treated posts in the ground, and the permacolums added $1000 to...

I have been doing a little research and came across someone talking about how spray foam (specifically closed cell) should not be used in a post frame because when moisture gets behind the metal, the closed cell foam doesn't allow any air movement to dry out the girts.. Any thoughts on this?

What's the general consensus here on using batt insulation in a pole shed vs having it spray foamed? I haven't gotten actual numbers to put to the project yet, but the spray foam will obviously be significantly more expensive.. but is it worth it?

Have any pics?

I'm liking this idea, but curious on the best way to wire it. I can run the wire in the joists and just poke it out the ceiling into the light fixture just like you'd do in a garage.. is that the best/easiest, or is there any reason to set a box on the outside of the (loft) ceiling, and then...

The staircase is in the back of the shop (not there yet), and there will be a light switch there for the lights up top of the mezzanine. The big lights use a total of 10.8a, so it really isn't a matter of energy consumption and cost savings. Tell me if I'm missing anything - the advantage...

If I run it directly down the center, is that adequate light for the workbench too, or am I still going to want a couple tubes over the bench? I'm guessing I'm going to get a shadow when working at the bench if I just have the one strip down the center?

I have a 40x48x14 shop with a 7x28 loft along one side. I have 9 high-bay ufo-style lights hanging from the ceiling and will be adding lighting under the loft and over the workbench.. I'm having a hard time deciding if I should put them all on one switch so all the lights come on at once when I...

I built a loft in my shop with the bottom of the joists @ 7'4", and was planning on using some 4' tube style LED fixtures tucked up in the joists a little so they are flush with the bottom (so I don't lose any headroom), but I am now contemplating adding some plywood to the bottom of the joists...

Inside will be all metal. Same as the video I linked. Black wainscot on the bottom, then a piece of double angle, and white above... rather than the "standard" white all the way from floor to ceiling. Figured outlets will be 48" off the floor and the wainscot will be 42 (which matches the...

Will be finishing out the inside of my shop next spring (ceiling and walls), and I've been seeing a few pictures of shops with wainscoting on the inside, and I think it looks pretty sharp, but I'm curious if there are any disadvantages to it.. electrical, hanging stuff on the wall, etc.. Here...

Thats what prompted my original post.. I would think that keeping the shop at 45 degrees all winter would be cheaper to do with in-floor heat than with a hanging heater. And then heating the air up to working temp would be easy after that for the evenings I want to work in there.. And with...

That's my question as well.

My original thought was that heating the slab was more efficient, so if I wanted to keep the building at 45 degrees 24/7, doing that with radiant would be the cheapest way to do it (the original question that prompted this thread). But because the radiant is very slow to change temps, I would...

I got ya now! I was just confused when you said you would go with radiant but your brother has it and hates it. I doubt I have the capacity in my system for that (closed loop), but I'd have to ask my hvac guy about that. I know they used to put geo systems in slab homes with radiant heat a...