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Wanted to get input from the peanut gallery on a hair-brained idea of mine. I notice that Home Depot (probably among other stores) sells PEX-AL-PEX for use in radiant heat applications such as 100' of 3/4" for $122 . I know the Rapid Air systems use PEX-AL-PEX and special compression type...

This ^^^^... He didn't say he's going to wire the pool himself, just planning for the future. As usual... it depends. just a standard residential size pool with a pump for the filters and such will need a 20A, 120V dedicated circuit for the pump, another 15A, 120V accessory circuit for other...

I agree with Jawn regarding the 12V vs 18V tool debate. For even an advanced homeowner, the 12V tools are enough, and you just can't beat the light weight and small size. They go everywhere and can fit in a (relativly large) pocket. I have a M12 Milwalkee impact and 3/8" chuck drill and they...

Ahh... Good link ssentt. I'm going to say that its probably OK, especially if the re-bar is continuous across the joint. Being just the footer, you aren't worried about water intrusion through the joint, or aestetics because it will all be buried.

Paultergeist has some good advice, don't let them pour the rest of the concrete until you have a good plan in place for the joint. If they just pour more concrete next to the rough, unfinished edge of the concrete that made it on the ground Friday, it WILL crack and you won't be happy with it...

The wire itself is probably not the problem, its most likely a connection issue somewhere. If the problem is on the power pole side of the meter, most likley the power company owns it, and is their responsibility to maintain. I say most likely because in some jurisdictions, the property...

404 - That's actually You Only Live Twice, but close enough. Right era of Bond, and the right actor (Connery).

You aren't allowed to use the 90C column for determining overall amp ratings because the connections at either end are only rated for 75C.

I'd agree, stick with the dynasty. We have hundreds of them at work and they get run ragged and keep on getting it. If the HF isn't working right it's most likely the points need to be adjusted. Check the manual, it's a simple procedure. The Syncroware is still a very high quality machine...

I would say that $600 is a decent price for all the gear in that ad, but i'd try to get it for $500. The tombstone is a Ac/DC, which is a step up from what you usually see. The torch setup looks decent, but its hard to tell what kind of torch it is. If its a name brand like Harris or Victor...

The SA200 has a cult following on WeldingWeb, those guys will definetly know the answer. That said, I think hippie2cams has the right answer. On that type of welding machine, a fairly significant current flows through the remote, so you don't want to disconnect it while the machine is running...

I don't know the current draw on the kiln, but you are correct that you'll be bumping right against the limit for 50 amps, which is the largest plug-and-socket you'll be able to find for normal residential stuff. You can go virtually as large as you want, but anything larger you are into...

I think you've got it right. The "cheater" puts neutral and ground at the same potential at the generator, and that is your bonding point between the two. Thus a hot-to-ground short in the trailer would conduct back to the generator frame (since ground is bonded to the frame of the trailer and...

There are several materials that are acceptable for use underground, includling PEX as you mention and the black poly Kevin has. Since you're in Virginia, check out Chapter 29 of the code for details...

I agree with pattenp, I would locate the garage sub-panel as centrally as possible to minimize wiring runs in the future, and splice the existing feeder into the sub-panel for now. Then when time / budget allows, run the feeder from the house.

I think its a good idea. You'll need the neutral, and you'll need a fuse for inside the contactor enclosure to protect the 120V portion of the circuit for the auto-drain.

Here's a quick sketch of what I was thinking and what Mustang51 described. You could then use a commercially avaliable 30A 240V power cord if an appropriate outlet is avaliable, or have the adapter to plug the box into a standard outlet. You'd only be limited by your power source.

I would use 15 amp "weather resistant" GFCI outlets. I don't see any need to go with 20 amp outlets given your expected loads. I do not believe the GFCI outlets provide any over-current protection, so you should include a circuit breaker for each circuit. I'd use an inlet on the side for a...

size would be the only thing I could think of, typically those flexible sink / toilet connections are only 1/4", which pretty substantially restricts your flow. But what tymbo said makes perfect sense... designed for higer temp, plenty of head room on the pressure rating, seems like a winner to me.

Ha, that's awesome... two posts at the same time with the same price estimate.