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Mike, one more question for ya. Haven't had polypropeline tiles in hand so appreciate the input sounds like it's probably unrealistic to think I'd be able to use something like this to move my 60's project truck closer to/away from the wall on the tiles?

thank you! great info to weigh before I pull the trigger

any updates on how these tiles are? specifically how do they do with wet cars/drainage and rolling heavy stuff like toolboxes around? very tempted. I planned to do full flow-through from some manufacturer but the price vs look on these is appealing

just saw a video where the guy used copper tube to protect the threads, thought it was smart. his application was steel threads so more critical than aluminum heads. worked great he just had some scraps of various fridge water line, brake line, etc to choose from

the hanging ones like the Wen shown are great for the fine, lingering particulate but they will NOT get everything. My old woodshop can attest to that, even with capturing at the source + running the WEN for a couple hours after work was done. it helped. I might stick it in the garage for...

ditto to everyone saying welding will be fine. I had to do 5 on my GM LS heads of varying depth. The heat of the weld itself helps crack the joint loose, so you don't need a crazy good conenction one or two took a couple of tries, but it was fine. Center the weld the best you can. you'll be...

no pictures, but something to consider: Dad's workbench is a homemade wood setup. what he did is mount a utility sink under the main countertop about 6-8" below. For years, he had a plywood cover he could drop over the opening of the sink and have a flush workbench. But then sink when he wanted...

Personally, I'd just use plenty of good wood glue

I lost 4 cans to clogging. shaking by hand wasn't doing it. the spin-in-a-can homemade method didn't help. at $7 a can, I was 1 can away from the cost of the shaker. It now sits in the cordless sawzall on a hook next to the paint rack pretty sure they were closer to $20 years back. Could I...

thanks Scott. i won't have that capability, but I'm thinking I can find a 20mm ID sleeve to use with a 3/4" rod and get similar results. Odds are I'm not using a cheater bar on a 5.5" vise as a guy doing basic automotive/fab work, so valid point that I probably won't bend it anyway. biggest...

Scott, thinking about doing a similar repair on a wallowed out ball on one of my vises concern is I don't have a machine shop, just a drill press and such. how tight do you do the handle to hole fit? 3/4 stock in a 3/4 ID sleeve, or do you leave some space? thinking if i go 3/4 and 3/4, any...

i tried similar. decided it didn't really work, since the ball just found a low point in the can and stopped agitating i bought the sawzall version. was going to make my own like the above, but decided to save myself the time and have a more convenient use item (quick strap vs hose clamp)

same. it's lasted about 10 years now. I don't usually leave it full anymore. only issue I have had is the pour spout cap cracked, so for a while I just put some plastic over before i threaded teh cap on. i think i finally found a replacement from a random jug of something. works great. as long...

i'm also confused on the size/scale we're talking other potential options:

I like that you made a "cutout" of sorts for the standing area, and it looks like you've got threaded adjustment for that area if on uneven ground suggestion since I know it's not really painting weather: bring a can of clear inside the house to warm up, then give the base a quick coat till...

i posted a picture years back of something similar I did. alter depending on the size of your vise, but basically do what is shown above with a normal bench vise. mount it to a piece of wood securely, and use some quick clamps to clamp it down to a table corner of your choice. if it even needs...

yep, sarcasm :)

i definitely wouldn't stick a fan in the door, throw on a respirator, and chisel up that floor in an hour or two then throw everything in black trash bags. nope. wouldn't do that. definitely not...

i could see hosing/blowing to be futile it it really packed into the grid. you'd probably need to lift it up a little to get some area for the crud to flow out? maybe that'd be as easy as a long 2x4 under the center to creat a little gap? again no firsthand experience so I don't know if that'd...

good luck. i was waiting, missed the 20% off toolboxes sale, and wound up using a 15% off anything to grab one a couple weeks back