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Do the cost comparison, the breathable fascia / gutterboard I am doing is costing me $27.30 for new 1x8s, already have the paint, $19.64 the reusable furnace filter membrane, and $13.24 for my drip edge flashing. I am re-doing my roof, so shingles are not included, but depending on how much your...

Jeff, I guess you aren't interested in my offer of paying up front for you guys to make a lift to fit my needs?

I am going to make my own fascia vent, I gonna cut 2" off the existing fascia top, add a breathable membrane like reusable furnace filter, block it ever 16" and then add a new fascia board and flashing to cover the 1-1.5" void and bada bing bada boom. This will work for me as I am reroofing that...

Digdug18 You need to add a vent to your soffit or fascia so air can run between the insulation and sheathing and escape out the ridge. The reason you need this air valley is to "wick" away the condensation. If you do not have eaves, you do have a couple options. You can build eaves, so you can...

No need to add a "ceiling" and blow in insulation. After doing some reading, I do need a ridge vent in the garage. My rafters are 2x6 and my insulation is R-13. This means the rafters are 5 1/2" thick and the insulation is 3 1/2". That leaves a 2" space between the sheathing and the insulation...

I am having the same problem. I am insulated to the rafter (Enough room between the insulation and sheathing for the air to circulate) and am reroofing it here in the next couple weeks. Should I add a ridge vent or leave it unvented since I plan on heating and air conditioning the garage?

I also like the idea of the shop crane added to the lift.

Honestly tons. How many people have one limited area to do multiple things in? If you are limited to a small area, a 1 or 2 car garage, why make it a mechanical work area only? To start with, it will be hard to enter or exit you car if you have to park between lift posts. What about using the...

But in all honesty JSK, I think I am really on to something you guys can corner the market with. I would be willing to pay up front, like in a few weeks (Gotta finish the garage addition first) for you to design me one. My email is [email protected] or my cell is 314-226-6420 if you want to get...

No I can not. My highest point is 155" inches, but being an asymmetrical lift, the posts will be move forward, so I will probably have a number closer to 145" inches tall. But don't worry, I won't be buying for 3-4 months, so you have pretty of time to design one. I work from home, so whenever...

Pattenp that is something I haven't thought about. But I do have 2' concrete walls I can also anchor off too. But if I could get the posts 8" off each wall, I still would be happy as it would open up the floor. Thanks Jeff, I look forward to those numbers.

I buy everything from mini coopers and bugs to duramaxs and cummins. So anything from 2500 lb to 8500 lb. This garage bay is a multi-use area. If I get a narrow lift, the post will hinder me from doing anything else but mechanical work. I find it hard to believe I am the first guy to ever have...

Thats what the top bar that connect the two keeps it from doing.

But the bendpak is only 11.5' wide. I have found another that is 13'. This bendpak is 155" wide or 12'11" wide. Still a far cry from 17'. http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/BendPak-XPR-12FD-p/bendpakxpr-12fd.htm

While that is on the right track, the reason I want to stay with a two post is it being clear underneath. If I had to do a RWD ****** or exhaust system, the arms would be in the way. How about this, could I purchase a way overrated 2 post (I.E. a 15K to lift a 3-5K car) and set the post 17'...

I thought about that, but since I will only be in this house for probably another 5 years, I want to be able to take it with me.

I appreciate the input 99SVT, but I might as well keep using the jack and jack stands if I have to wheel those guys in every time to use them. I own a small car dealership and work on these cars my self. A lot of the time I am just rotating tires or replacing them. This task would take 5 minutes...

Thats only 11 1/2' feet wide. I found a 13' wide (155" actually) while searching but still I want wider. This will be a multi use area and and 2 big old post will be in my way. I understand the wider it is, the more leverage applied to the arms, causing it to want to tilt in towards each other...

I am adding an elevated work shop my garage so I can use my existing garage (17' wide x 23' deep) as a working bay. My tool boxes, work benches, shelves, ect will be out of the area so I can bring a car in and work fully around it. Now my dilemma, it will defeat my whole purpose if I put in a 2...

I was wondering because that is technically not a load bearing wall. The roof supports itself with a truss design. I have to remove my end wall and was wondering if I was was just going to convert it over to a truss or beam it.