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+1 on the UPS. We have lots of issues with lightning. All our critical computers here at work are on UPSs, no issue. Unless the roof leaks on the computer....

Every hanging install I have seen was double nuts on the threaded rods.

Next time you see a refrigerator getting scrapped, cut the door seal magnets off. 10' of magnets that you can cut with scissors. Handy for keeping drawings from blowing away and holding light tools to the rool cab. I also hot glue a strip to the caps of my pens like suggested earlier.

No rebar in the block cells. But, we would drop a piece of all-thread into the cell, or a J-bolt and cement in place. About every 4'. Use those to anchor the sill plate. Just do some planning ahead when you place the anchor bolts. PITA when they land right under where you need to place a...

Don't worry about leveling the trench for the footers, just make sure it is deep/thick enough to satisfy requirements, and that you order enough cement. We used to use a soupy mix so the top of the footer would self-level. Our masons wanted the finish on the footer left a bit rough so the...

Rec'd my payment in the mail yesterday. Two gift cards totaling $265. The paperwork I submitted 4/6/17 was "you saved $447". So about 60% of what I 'saved'. New tool cart and maybe a powdercoat setup is on the shopping list.

Don't bother removing the factory anode because of ceiling clearance issues. Run it for 5 years, and then if you want to replace it then, use an impact. (HF electric suggested earlier is awesome) If the OEM anode it too long to remove, just bend/break it to get it out. Then drop in the flexy...

Yup. I have used a hacksaw and an abrasive disc also to cut PVC. Easy to work with.

I've got three rollups in my shop. Each has two slide locks at the bottom. Not a big problem, I can kick them open and closed with my foot. When I go out of town, each has a hole that I slip a padlock thru. May not be a lot of help though. Grinders, saws and wrenches are within reach of the...

My family has used ABF for this 3 different times. Works great.

Before you foam, lay down a bunch of masking tape or plastic. Once the void is full, the foam will want to back out of the hole and can get everywhere. If you have used it before, you know it is a pain in the rear to cleanup. Might want to drill 2-3 holes and shoot some in each. good luck!

When you routed the pulleys, did you use any reduction/doubling to be able to use less weight? How much weight in the counterbalance? I have a set of stairs going to my bonus room, and have built a side hinged door that sits flush with the floor(ceiling). Light enough door, and I have it set...

Does the water do that from all taps? Outside faucets, baths, kitchen? Both on the hot and cold sides? If possible, see if you can draw some water right at the service meter. Sometimes a new build that is at the end of the line from the main will take a looong time to clear up. Think about...

The 'lady that told me it was OK", go visit her and have her put approval in writing. Probably never be an issue, but if you have a signature from a gov representative, it will go a long ways to work in your favor.

Chesterfield County, SC. Last November I paid $108/yd with fiber. 12 yds total.

Best thing you can do is oil everything down. Tools, benches, etc. Next is to keep the air moving. Here in SC, I havae a helluva time with everything in my insulated barn sweating. I keep two ceiling fans running and it makes a huge difference.

I had fiberglass in two pours. Good results. I fixed the whiskers by hitting them with a weedburner torch. My latest two pours had something different. the local concrete plant offers "Buckeye fibers". Nearly invisible, with no whiskers. All the studies I've read show it is as strong or...

15' front porch overhang. I have a garage door that opens to it. Anytime I am welding, grinding or making a mess, I roll the project out of the shop under the porch. Shaded, out of the weather and all the mess is outside. Mine is the .gif at the bottom of the page...

Have you paid them yet? As others have said, nothing will be right after the original pour has cured. Do you have any leverage to have it torn out and re-poured?

Years ago I had a job where we tore down about 25 sheds, all 300' long. We could reach the 1x4 that the sheetmetal was nailed to from the underside. One guy with an air hammer pushed the nails out about a 1/2". I was on the roof cutting the heads off with a pair of bolt cutters. Get them all...