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Oh, are you talking about the offset axis adapters? I think the term adapter is quite ambiguous.

To put excessive torque on a socket that it was not designed for? Limit the amount of ratchets that are necessary. I have a ton of up size and down size adapters and I never use them.

I didn't mean to offend anyone by this statement. I was trying to convey the thought that the most expensive tool is not the best. I am actually a die hard craftsman fan and they are a great tools for the weekend warrior.

They frequently do. Have you ever talked to the sales people at Sears "actually insert any large store chain" about a product where the input and output energy are grossly different in the direction of energy being created from nowhere. I really would like to see products that are 235% efficient...

Honestly, I have used them and I didn't mind them. I really think there are too many tool snobs out there that think that snap on, matco and mac are the best. I have an average mans annual salary in those brand tools and I will willingly admit I like the majority of my craftsman tools better. I...

I don't like any of the ones available so I decided to make my own.

I really like the clean look of the swagelok, and with using swagelok all the time at work in our products I am a huge fan of the product. Although my inspector said that I could not use compression fittings. I don't know if this is true everywhere, just thought it was interesting.

Yea, I screwed up on typing that (this is what happens when I try to do real work on my tablet) The "winter" rate is 0.62931, my average price per therm with associated local fees, taxes, and this thing they add to pay for local income customers (I note this because it pisses me off) is 0.83634...

Maybe I mention that 1 Therm is 29kW/h or 100kW/h

Xcel energy here in St. Paul MN Cost per Therm is .1301 Cost per kW/h is .1355 This was a no brainer for me.

This is what I originally wanted to do. Although my garage has a 4/12 pitch so the height for me to get in and work is < my bodies width. The only way I could have done this was to remove a piece of sheet rock to gain the access and patch it when I finished.

It is ready for inspection!

I got the heater mounted up and the gas line ran. I have been able to hold 20psi for a week now but before I have the inspection done I have a question. I came into the garage with 3/4" pipe and split that to a tee, one leg capped and the other going to the heater. The run to the heater is 43'...

I live in St. Paul and would like this guys information.

If I recall correctly I believe it is 146", just a tad over 12'. If I were to do it differently I would have made it 40'wide by 30' deep, do like a 10' wall to scissor trusses where the lift is then 9' wall with attic above for storage. The extra width would be nice because I am starting to buy...

I have a 32x34 which is plenty of sq ft for me. Although I wish I laid mine out like yours

Probably not as nice as some others on here but it serves my purposes.

I figured out yesterday how I wanted to approach this. Because my block was 8" and my framing framing was 2x6" I had a little gas around the perimeter of the garage. I laid the pipe along that gap. The fit was perfect and if I paint the pipe white later it will blend in quite well. Because the...

Maybe... The part of St. Paul, MN I live in you can't dig too deep without hitting continuous layers of limestone. We had to hydrohammer the perimeter of the ground for the footings. Long story short, digging *****

The problem is they would have to dig the rest out and thus they would charge me more. I would hate to start pressing my luck with them as the planner was nice enough to schedule me in before some other jobs so I would avoid paying the winter rate for installation.