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Me neither. I've been on dozens of service calls where the belt was so loose it squealed for weeks according to customers. Also, I've been on calls where the pump was locked up and the motor pulley ground the belt into dust until it broke. Never a fire from a belt.

I prefer Rotary or Challenger.

I noticed that too. It would be smart to shorten the ****** coming out of the head to a close ******. Take away the weight from hanging so far out away from head. That head is aluminum.

Nice unit. We sell them new for $499.

The bottom of the jugs are tapered to facilitate the assembly over the rings. That unit is designed very closely to Saylor Beall pumps and also very similar to the original Sanborn pumps like the SC-10. Very easy to work on.

Hdtheater, you have a lot more patience than I do. Personally, I would have tossed all their asses by now and filed a suit against the whole bunch!

This thread can be deleted.

You are welcome. One question from curiosity ... Is 70PSI all the higher you can adjust the pressure or is that where you want it? The regulator should allow almost all of the tank pressure when you dial it in all the way.

I have installed many Rotary lifts over the years and the SPO10 TA is very popular. I installed my last one in a Chevy Dealership and those techs are very pleased!

Regulator looks like a Dixon brand. I could be wrong but either way, two things to start with. 1.) Make sure it is installed to the tank properly. Regulators have a direction installation. Either there will be and arrow on it indicating the correct direction of airflow or it will say "IN" and...

WHOO HOO! Congrats on the success! I'll go back and look over the regulator pics.

Sounds like a matter to be settled between the GC and the Sub Contractor. That's one of the reasons you have a GC. Personally, I' think the GC should handle the problem now, get his customer happy and deal with the sub contractor after your job is finished.

*** I'm referring to the hex nut directly under the round knob, NOT the giant hex nut at the bottom.*** The one under the knob does thread in ... Right? I would think there would be a flat washer between the spring and the rubber so the sharp edge of the spring doesn't cut into the rubber...

ok, from what I see, in pic #4, not the top round knob, but the hex right under it ... Does it screw up and down? It looks as if the hex nut is the differential, and the top knob is the High/low setting.

Possibly your cordless batteries and charger overcharging. You take batteries off charger and smell disappears, charge batteries and smell comes back.

No. You have the differential too wide. Can you take a couple close up pics of the load genie? There are several configurations to set the kick in/kick out and the differential. Pics would help me. Usually a load genie is set to something like 110-125 or 100-115 or 150-175. See the idea here?

After you set the load genie, look the tank over to see if there is a square plate welded to it. I'm curious if it is a certified tank. The plate size is about 4" by 4". If you have a plate, tell us the number after the letters "MAWP" and tell us the year the tank was made.

I agree with most of what you stated. There is no need to size over 3/4 by 6" wedge anchors as the lift companies supply. Also I see no need to "cast" them in the concrete. ReBar? I'm ok either way. I would use fiber and key the slab under the existing concrete. I've installed lifts for thirty...

IF, and only IF they let that concrete set 28 days before they drilled and lagged it. IF they did, then the repair is fine. Put it to use. I say IF because of the excessive heights of the lag bolts. This would be a flag to me to have it redone due to wrong mix, weak mix, or lack of sufficient...

Lets assume the load genie releases at 100 psi. what should happen is as follows ... Start compressor up with empty tank. Compressor runs and builds air. When pressure gets to 100 psi, the pressure overrides the spring inside the load genie and pushes some air up thru the copper tube onto...