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^^^^ this ^^^^

Similar to adaptive intelligent recovery, the Nest has a learning feature to find the target temps / recovery time, this causes more problems than it solves and on the Nest ( verses every digital Honeywell stat out there), you cannot fully lock out the "feature".

dirty coil...

Because they can? Seriously? Wages, matching fees, insurance and regulations /code enforcement, protection from frivolous law suits...Tell me what those are in Vietnam?

Not a split capacitor motor. It's a modulating motor.

Here's the rub. To have this done properly...it costs money. You have two choices here...pay a reputable tech what it costs to fix it right, so it stays fixed...or rip out the 1,000.00 system and install a new one(because it's so Damn cheap and disposable). A proper leak search and seal with...

It's not about "screwing someone"..It is about recognizing the value of certain expertise. 800 SF? Sounds like two tons depending on exposure, insulation, fenestration etc...

If you do it yourself. You are 100% responsible for the warranty.

A/C systems either leak or they don't. That is what pressure tests and leak detector is for. A/C systems do not routinely sprout leaks, sealed is sealed, unless you have aluminum coils...then it's not if, it's when.

3 = “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

If you want a longer labor portion of the warranty, it doesn't come cheap. I include a 10 year parts AND labor warranty for condenser and evap coils specifically because they rarely fail... And an 18 month parts and labor on everything at no additional cost. The manufacturer provides a 10 yr...

Lennox Aire flo is one and Bryant is another at least in So Cal.

Today's equipment - higher efficiency and much quieter. BUT most manufacturers now have switched to all aluminum coils. This summer I have seen a lot of failed aluminum coils (especially the condenser coil). I strongly urge you to insist on a copper tube and aluminum fin condensing unit coil...

Check your filter first - then check and see if the outdoor coil is clean (you should be able to see through it). Check your air delivery at the supply air outlets, if it is weak after filter is removed the evaporator coil is clogged. Any of these conditions cause excess pressures and can in...

Ohm the compressor and also check it to the case for a direct short. I bet a capacitor or contactor failed.

Whe the panel is not within 50 feet and in clear sight, you must provide a disconnect, fused or not. This is so no one can turn on the power if you are working on it.

30 amp circuit - with #`10THNN or romex - Use 25 amp fuses at disconnect. 2 wires AND a ground.

temporary image hosting picture hosting Same story - when I got my 75 the guy told me he had it for about 15 years and he had no idea it was supposed to swivel (jaw). Took a week in an Electrolysis dip to get it to budge...and eventually had to use heat to remove the jaw and cylinder, once...

Read it again...The nitrogen re- introduction defrosts it back to a vapor allowing it to be removed. Deep vacuums make the moisture trapped in the oil freeze, your vacuum pump does not remove this...that is why manufacturers always recommend a triple vacuum.

350 to 400 nitrogen test does not tell you where you have a leak, it can show if you have one. Thick Nu calgon works really well to find small leaks. The reason you do a triple vacuum is that moisture trapped in the oil freezes at the low pressure (29.99 Hg) and it doesn't boil off... by re...