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I'm in the auto parts industry but have dealt with attempting to get castings made here....it's only halfway affordable if you're making huge quantities. Small businesses cannot afford huge quantities, or the place to put them. I have a cast part I needed, to have it made here I would have...

Yes, JIS is an obsolete standard, but it's still better in every way than a damn phillips...which are mostly useless IMO. Play semantics all you want. I've not torn up a single head on single "cross" type screw since I switched to JIS drivers. Phillips drivers are OK for wood screws I...

JIS drivers work better than Phillips drivers on every screw they fit into, in my 40 years of using screwdrivers

https://www.amazon.com/VESSEL-ARMOR-Screwdriver-JISDRIVE-No-550A8PTU/dp/B093TYTYW5/?tag=atomicindus08-20 I just bought this set and it is excellent. I refuse to buy normal phillips screwdrivers or any set that includes them....pretty much everything you'd use a hand screwdriver on is a JIS...

You won't notice the noise after the first or second time you attempt to use it and realize how useless it is and throw it in the trash. I made my own out of a bench grinder, some square tubing, on old toyota camry timing belt idler pulley and I machined a drive pulley with a bit of a barrel...

I work on a lot of european brake calipers and use a dewalt 3/8 impact with chrome sockets exclusively....the impact sockets simply won't fit due to the wall thickness in many cases. Never broke one and haven't worn anything out. I'll use impact sockets on the 1/2" gun, but 90% of the time...

I blast 50 + year old brake calipers all the time....and I don't notice any difference in rust removal (scaley rust yes....normal old iron rust...no). I run 90psi with a good gun and not a POS harbor freight setup though.....I had a HF cabinet in the beginning....it was the most horrible thing...

Its always tough to determine if loctite is working as it should....because if the fastener is tightened as it should be, it should stay put without any loctite to begin with. Thread locker is a feel good/insurance thing in 90% of cases. That said, I have some of the orange stuff that I'll...

I only use glass bead in my cabinets now. It does not work as good as aluminum oxide, but it is easier to deal with. Aluminum oxide will eat the gun and the nozzles....carbide nozzles are almost a requirement, and they tend to live about 50 hours or so (at least in my setup). Guns don't...

Make one...couple minutes on the grinder to "convert" a 1/4 drive hex key socket

One thing I did on mine is add a flange with a 2" PVC ball valve to the cabinet vent. As my dust collector filter loads up and ***** less, close the ball valve some to keep the negative pressure under control. Freshly cleaned dust collector, ball valve is wide open. I clean the filter...

I'm sort of a fan of them. I prefer shallow broach sockets, and without getting on tool truck, ICON seems to be the only option. I also prefer mid depth sockets over shallow where they'll fit, which is just about everywhere in what I do....(production environment) more area to grab and pull...

Separate the two elements. Put the turntable at the base of your stand, so the whole thing rotates with the chair, then use a simple single axis pivot / hinge whatever to make the chair swing and hold it straight in the case of uneven loads.

Shop Vac and a long prybar. Use the prybar to break up the dirt, use the shop vac to **** it up. Or, hose clamp a piece of 3/8 or so rod to a rigid shop vac extention so it stick about 6" past the end of the tube and just use that so you can hold a beer with the other hand. Works...

I much prefer a shallow broach. Makes starting fasteners in hard to reach places much easier. I keep a couple sets of cheaper deep broach on hand for when the job requires it, but I rarely touch them. I almost exclusively use semi-deep sockets. Since I don't have a Snap-On dealer...

If he was a brake guy, then one of those with the rounded blade might be to remove the rear plug on old Girling Triumph TR3/TR4 calipers.... I imagine there are a lot more older things that used plugs of this type (the ones that we normally use a coin to remove), I've just never seen one

I suppose on a simple motor it might, but if there is any sort of control board....the 50hz vs 60hz thing tends to foul up the works

https://forumelectrical.com/how-to-test-a-single-phase-motor/#google_vignette

No it's not. 220V in europe/china uses a single 220V leg. 220V in the USA (or 240V, or whatever you wanna all it) uses a pair of 110V legs and a ground. With a device with 2 input conductors....one of which wants 220V and the other of which wants a neutral, how would you hook up to that...

If you've got an old engine with pitting on the valve and seat sealing surfaces, lapping is way to help with that, and depending on ones persistence and the extent of the damage....even solve it in a halfway acceptable manner. Will it be as good as new?....no. Will it be considerably better...