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Yeah, I wouldn't go out of my way to go after the granite, it was just what they had that seemed like a good deal. It was OK....till it broke. And that was due to moving anyways. The grizzly units do look good and solid, and probably the best value proposition for a new machine. I've started...

Hello all, I'm about fed up with my jointer. I've invested a lot of time into it, and at this point, it's more trouble than it's worth anymore.... It's a Masterforce 6" jointer w/ granite table and fence, and I bought it as a floor model from Menards as they were clearancing that product line...

So with the miter saw bench that I built, and with the large hood, it does collect the dust into one space, but since I don't have a large DC hooked up to it yet, it sort of sprays back in my face still quite a bit, so I borrowed some clear vinyl that my SFIL had from a different project, and...

I looked at this more closely. It looks like awesome stuff, but it's 0.045" thick which is just too much, I need the threshold pulled down tightly to the floor, no gaps. If it comes thinne I haven't been able to find it. Ugh, in other news, I let the stain dry a day, then started with wiping...

interesting idea, I assumed any double-sided tape wouldn't stand up to foot traffic. i assume you are referring to this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JOVUO0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Forstner: Cleanest hole, but best drilled w/ DP, hand drill can get a bit difficult. They are found in the largest increments, usually 1/16" up to 3" or so. Probably the slowest. Spade / Auger: These do the same thing, although I feel that w/ the spurs along the outside, often a spade will have...

Finished profiling it. With the back bevel, then round over, and a general sanding has it a gentle sweep from the top to the bottom. Now stain and a bunch of coats of poly.

The lead edge is getting a back bevel along w/ a nose radius to reduce the lip that can cause trip hazard. Once all the lines are sanded it actually ends up looking more like a sweeping arc across from one edge to the other. The tiles unfortunately are not quite straight and level enough for me...

It was a gift but definitely my QuickJack 5000

If I can't get this to line up from the bottom I think I might have to get a plug cutter...getting the plugs to disappear might be tricky. I'll have to pre-finish the threshold then come back and do some touchup on the plugs. Not an area I've dabbled in before but I'll do it if it's my last resort.

The joists run perpendicular to the threshold, so that shouldn't be a problem, but there is a large I-beam in the basement that runs along the length of the house parallel w/ the threshold. Question is does the threshold lie directly over that steel I-beam? I don't think it does but it might be...

Sounds like a good plan. You are doing pretty much exactly what I had to do w/ my drain stack pictured above. It's a lead / oakum joint usually. Two ways to get rid of it are either to drill it out (keep drilling around the perimeter of the joint then dig / chisel it out). Or to torch it till...

I think PL is really good stuff, no qualms about that. I use it for many things. Reason being is I used it for a similar application last winter when I re-did the kids hallway bathroom. It was the factory bamboo finished transition, only about 32" long, jumping from the tile across to the wood...

Not sure if this belongs in here or Free Parking, but I am doing a minor WW project, which is to make a custom threshold to jump from our kitchen tile floor to our dining room hardwood floor. The trouble really is with the height between floors, due to the way the subfloor needed to be built up...

My house built in the 60s is all copper drains and vents. Aside from the obvious cost element (4" copper tubing, yikes), aside from a patina developed, it looks in phenomenal shape. All of the new DWV plumbing I did, I obviously used PVC but the copper that I cut out for my projects was pristine...

At a minimum, you could just replace the fernco and be done. If any of the plumbing below it bothers you or is suspect, then you'll need to pretty much cut out all of that PVC and re-set new lines. The new PVC can be joined to the old PVC either using ferncos or PVC couplers glued in. You would...

Re: Attention GJers-Check your Photobucket accounts A while ago i used photobucket, didn't like it then moved to Google Photo. Those loaded for awhile but then started disappearing. After that I moved over to OneDrive. It's microsoft based, so I know they aren't going to be disappearing anytime...

The fitting on the RH of the "cross" is just a mesh muffler w/ valve, so if I wan to bleed the system off safely w/o projectiles or too loud I can use that. The fitting on the LH side of the "cross" is a standard coupler, I use it connected to my one blue hose at the moment, and drag it to...

My shop is long narrow and somewhat winding, especially considering it's got 3 cars and lots of tools to block the flow of things from end to end, so one hose (which is what I have set up now & been using for a couple years) really isn't my endgame here. I plan to put a fixed reel at each end...

For the most part I plan to use fittings like these or similar. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-High-Flow-Aluminum-Female-Quick-Coupler-and-Plug-Set-036-0138H/205184364