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Not sure how you would calculate for the whole season though. On the days and times that the temp was really cold COP is less than 2. I guess I need to see if I can find a chart showing how many hours at each temp for our location. The Pioneer WYF-25 that I am looking at starts dropping at 5...

Efficiency is low at those temps so propane is cheaper I will have to take a look at those. I have looked before and not only does heat output drop but COP drops. Electricity is .19 and propane $2.69 currently. Thanks

It gets cold in our part of Colorado. A hyper heat would work for part of the time but would still need propane. I am probably better off doing the 80% and maybe down the road add a mini split

Thanks for the reply. So you put a heat tape inside the unit?

Shop is in southern Colorado. So the problem is the condensate will freeze inside the heater if the building isn't heated all of the time? Thanks

Pink foamular board = Virtually impervious to moisture. FOAMULAR® XPS insulation boards have up to 13X more resistance to water than EPS insulation.

Anybody running one of the high efficiency hanging shop heaters? They are 93+ % efficient vs 80% for a standard Hot Dawg or similar? They vent with pvc. The Modine Effinity 85k btu is about $2500 while a standard 80k unit is about $1300 Looking at what you save in fuel the higher efficient unit...

Thanks. I am leaning towards the U tube design. It will fit between my shop doors (if they are opened) and as you say an easier install

Thanks for the responses. Anybody got any input on a straight tube heater vs "u" tube? From the specs, the "u" tubes cover more area. Have also read articles where on a long tube the temperature starts to get cold on the end away from the burner? Thoughts? Thanks

I don't understand enough about vapor barriers to know if this is ok or not. With the "flash and batt" method that me and C-S-H are talking about the 2" of foam provides the vapor barrier.

For those with infrared tube heaters. Do they really cover as much as the charts say? I am looking at a "u" tube infrared heater (NXU85) Doing the math it would provide primary coverage area of 31' wide x 48' long. Shop is 40x40. So with secondary radiation added it one heater down the middle...

Sorry, I missed this response. As far as I can tell the only air gap would be where each piece of lap siding overlaps. Nothing visual but it can't be air tight. I am now thinking just 3-4" of pink foam board. I could do 2" of pink foam (R10) then unfaced fiberglass R15 for a poor boys "flash...

Only problem with cellulose is it settles. You would have to have access to the top of the walls to add more down the road

Thanks. Sangre de Cristo mountains in southern Colorado........... The barn came with the place when we bought it It was built in the late 90's. No house wrap and probably no insulation under or around the slab. 2" of pink foam board for the walls was what I was thinking. As you said I could cut...

Got a shop in southern Colorado that I need to insulate. It’s 2×6 stud walls 12′ tall with the center being about 20′ tall. Pix of barn is attached. Walls are wrapped in OSB and then steel lap siding. The best I can tell there is no building wrap. Spray foam is too expensive so I am thinking...

you must be from California. NOBODY in TX or CO cares at least at our places

Need at least 12' maybe 13 1/2

Nobody cares where you got it. All the propane company wants to see is that the tank has a legit manufacturer plate on it. Here I can rent a 250 for $60 a year. In CO at our vacation home its $100 for a 500 gallon and that includes the tank monitor. At those prices it would take 30 years for...

Yes, it appears they came together and agreed upon specs that push their fake specs. Kinda like the RV companies that use that reflectictive stuff and a couple inches of fiberglass and give it a high R value.

Clopay says calculated door section R-value is in accordance with DASMA TDS-163.