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I would be surprised if you have a flange problem. If you have stains coming from under the toilet, the laws of gravity are telling you that you have a mounting or wax ring problem. What makes you think it's the flange?

You need a defoamer: https://www.surechemical.com/aboutus/RP20251215-The-difference-between-air-entraining-agents-and-defoamers-in-concrete.html Please share what you are making. Using vacuum and pressure may help also if you do it while vibrating.

If you don't smell gas, I would not touch it. Someone has already thought this out professionally and another trap in the system will just be something else to gunk up and cause maintenance issues. Floor drain traps evaporate and dry out. Your original plumber likely tied this in so you would...

How thick is your floor? The lift specs have a fudge factor in them, so if you are just off by 1/2 an inch, then there are ways around that. I would also go with a 4 post lift before tearing up this floor. It will be very messy... (I would actually go with a 4 post lift over a 2 post lift...

I mean no disrespect, but I had to disprove every bad idea from a "professional" contractor or on this forum, my fingers would drop off. I would approach this in a simple way: 1) Tell your contractor to follow the instructions that come with the lift. (If he gives you grief or disagrees, then...

No. The rebar is only there (in a new slab) for crack control. If your slab didn't crack after 30 days of cure, then you don't have a problem. Rebar is not a requirement, it is just insurance against cracks forming outside the saw cut joints. Bendpak's old instructions 10+ years ago called...

When a concrete pad cures, it shrinks. Every edge of the slab (in an ideal world) physically moves towards the center when this happens. (In reality, the slab doesn't move freely across the ground and it will typically crack along the control joints and shrink inward within each saw-cut...

This is still a problem, although not as harsh as a straight-down shape. There is no technical specification, concrete finishing guide or other technique tested in science that indicates that this is acceptable in practice. (If there is, it would be interesting to read and I'd like to...

Yes. a two post lift requires the slab to act like a flat plate in order to resist tipping: The minimum size of a "pad" needed for a special installation is the manufacturer's repair slab size. (I have never seen one close to 3X3.) Even when a manufacturer provides specs for a repair slab...

Did you see an authoritative reference that showed this as a good idea? You won't see any warnings not to do this because its wild-*** crazy from an engineering perspective. (So, engineers/designers will only put the acceptable options in the instructions.) Concrete finishers may come up with...

I'm sorry this happened to you. The edges of the square create a feature called a reentrant corner, which causes reentrant cracks. You will have them at each corner and may only be able to see them if you wet the slab. (They will not all open up to be the same width.) At 3X3, the area will...

Don't do this. It's not required, it will make your pad weaker, encourage cracking and only lead to problems down the road. This type of thing is not in ANY lift manufacturer's instructions for a reason -> its a really bad idea. There are many threads on this, so I won't drain them here...

Yes, that window is fire rated and the wire in the glass helps the panes gain fire resistance. I would use whatever you like to glaze the panes. (Since it is loosing that fire rated function.) I would think the lead paint on that window is the most hazardous thing to watch out for.

Its not very hard. We just start by cutting an extension cord in half and yelling, "Hey Ma!, Watch this!!!" before we plug it in. If you don't want a science project, why not just put in a motion sensing light? They have a light sensor so they don't turn on during the day and also have...

We have done something similar for controlling remote lights through Homelink garage door openers. I ripped the guts of a Liftmaster remote light and use them to drive lighting contactors: (see post #39)...

This is a trolling question. Nobody has glass Edison light bulbs any more. But back in the day, everyone who did need to deal with this would just grab the edge with pliers and unscrew it. We all grew up and trained for the task on sophisticated training aids.

Lots of stuff on that thing to break. When something does break, I shudder to think about the situation...

It looks like Rust-Oleum is moving from a 400 VOC version of the paint to a 100 VOC version. So, there are all sorts of different SKUs. When you see the message that the paint is not available in your area, I think you are seeing the 400 VOC. I would call (800) 899-1729 tomorrow, which is...

If you look at the link, Rust-Oleum doesn't sell that product in anything bigger than a quart. It looks like they put a special "Professional" label on it when they put it in a gallon pail. lol https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/professional/white-clean-metal-primer...

They also sell lighted switches in the Decora form: