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That's what I'm more or less looking for. As noted above, like a low oil pressure kill switch on my racecar. Those are DC however, so wasn't sure how I would wire it.

Not to over think, but it came to me that if my radiant in floor heater system ever popped a solder, or the strainer cracked, this thing would pump 30 gallons of antifreeze on the floor until the system finally lost prime. There is nothing to stop the pumps from running other than a call to heat...

I thought that same thing about the filter. In the one video you can see how small that crossover pathway is. I backflushed the entire system, and emptied it. And flushed with distilled water. Completely, 100% replaced the fluid with non diluted cryo tec 100. This guy seems like it would...

Yup, lesson learned.

I agree. I just need to keep straining/flushing. I thought I got all the junk out of it the first time, but apparently not.

The goop, my strainer, and by mesh bucket strainer catching goop when I empty it. The product was base hit II. What junk that garbage is. Since I fought the npt fittings sealing when air testing....thought it was a good idea. Obviously not. This small passage in the boiler is probably where...

Video update. Backflushed boiler, and I am in fact getting crud out of it. I now have flow through the floor both with the t valve open and closed, and through the boiler. Working much better I think I need to actually flush the entire system at this point. The system sealer I bought for...

Will do. That Makes sense.

I had shut the system off for a bit to gather my thoughts and made this video after about 15 mins of plugging it back in. I dont know if this sheds any light on anything asked above. Sorry it's in portrait mode.

Sounds like my enemy is no insulation! Thanks for setting me straight guys

If I close all the loops off, but 1, it gets warm down to the manifold and goes to 70 degrees. I can do the same with moving the t to closed.

I guess I thought at least the pad would warm....the concrete isn't even remotely trying to warm. It's getting sprayed in a few months. For the simplicity of the thread I may have stated it was already done. Sorry for my fib there. I guess I'm shocked to learn the pad won't even get Luke...

Yes its running. The flow meters are at 3/4 deflection. I closed all the loops, and opened 1 at a time. At one point I had the lower gauge at 70, but I opened 2 more loops...and apparently overnight it sucked the heat out of it. Both pumps have to be running, as the flow meters (the open...

All, thank you for your help and support to this point. Was out of town so just getting back to it. I'm struggling to get the floor loops warm. Does initial heat cycles usually take days? Boiler loop(post boiler) is HOT 140+F. It's calling for heat and working as it should. Boiler loop pre...

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Per your recommendation , ordered 2 of these. Over my head on how these will be different, but we'll see. you obviously have a better understanding than me. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfo...YpAr_uOdK2Bk6k77wu8NEjInld6MjpWoaAvOpEALw_wcB thank you,

the pump pn you listed appears to have the same advertised gph and hp as mine. I guess this "head pressure rating" is something you just have to know....and I simply picked the incorrect pump? So even though same gph and 1/25 hp....I need this one...

HS00R-3SPDCSTI https://www.homedepot.com/p/Taco-Comfort-Solutions-1-25-HP-Cast-Iron-Circulator-Pump-007F5/205741246

if you look back earlier in the thread, there are a few diagrams attached, and pictures of the panel. I agree that the pumps look like they fight each other, but it's built the same as the diagram, and I confirmed a bunch of times it's correct.

The pumps are 1/25 HP, 17 GPM pumps. 8 loops, 280 feet or so ea. 1/2 in. Flow meters all show movement. finally have the strainer/boiler pump showing movement also. it's wired properly with the 2 50 amp breakers. I know it only turns on with flow. not much of a pressure drop from top to...