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I have two amana PTACs in my shop/barn. Seem to work well for heating, haven't used them in cooling season yet. They are a bit loud. They are not as effecient as a mini-split but are less expensive and sometimes a better option. I purchased mine online and they were shipped from the factory...

That looks pretty nice, when I was looking it was difficult to find an inexpensive mount that articulated and spanned two studs. I finally purchased one that only mounted to one stud but beefed up the wall by spanning studs with some oak before mounting it. So far so good.

There are some good threads on insulating a pole barn if you do a search on this forum. The main issue with your climate is condensation forming when it is humid. As moisture in the shop from the humid air condenses on cooler surfaces (i.e. the metal siding, windows, doors etc). When this...

I moved mine with my tractor by pulling it, it was built on a base of 4X4s and plywood and I would pull the base. It handled being moved a couple of times but got racked out of square the last time and would have need to be rebuilt to get it square again. It blew apart in a recent wind storm...

The vapor barrier generally always goes to the room side of the insulation however, the sheet metal is essentially a vapor barrier. It's probably not necesarily a bad idea to have the two vapor barriers touching (insulation vapor barrier and sheet metal) there is the risk of developing...

I have some IC rated recessed cans in a portion of my garage, the IC rating means they can surrounded by insulation and covered with insulation, they will shut off for a period of time if they get too hot. Our building code required that recessed lights be IC rated. If you use non-IC rated...

I have two insulated spaces separated by an unheated garage, it's a pole barn construction. Each section is about 550 sqft of conditioned space and the PTACs are 15K BTU with a 5K watt back up heat strip (240V 30A, rather than a 20A units). I forgot one of the reasons I didn't go with a...

I have PTAC units in my garage in two well insulated spaces- they are heat pumps with back up heat. I haven't used them much as the drywall was just hung this week- they worked very well to heat the place up, I haven't used them for cooling yet. At the time I was looking a mini-split was...

Yeah- do a google search for PTAC, I have two Amana PTAC units that are heatpumps. Find the one you think you want to buy and then download the manual and that will give you the dimensions. The standard size is about 42" by 16". You need a metal sleeve for the unit to go into and a grill for...

I'm not sure what polyboard is, but if it is basically a foam board type insulation it is essentially waterproof and thus a vapor barrier/retarder. If you put in fiberglass batts with a vapor barrier toward the inside of the garage will have potential to trap moisture in between the two vapor...

That's the type I have on my garage, I have the Wayne Dalton iDrive garage door openers on it which should work with those doors and doesn't need much head room. Not sure I'd reccomend them, I've had problems with mine and with the doors jamming up, not closing etc. Make sure you get the...

Warmer air holds more moisture as vapor than colder air. When that warm air hits the cold surfaces of the door and window you get condensation. It wasn't a problem before insulation because the garage was cold inside, now it's warm. It sounds like you either need more ventilation or a...

That sounds right- a vapor barrier over the insulation on the inside of the building (kraft faced insulation or poly) will limit the amount of moisture that travels from the inside heated area through the insulation as vapor. There will always be some moisture getting through, and it should be...

This seems like a reasonable way to go, ideally the housewrap would be put on over the stringers and the t-111 on top, but so it goes. The housewrap if placed carefully will allow moisture from outside a place to go without getting to the insulation. It also has the added benefit of an air...

This may not work, but they make hangers for blanket insulation, looks like it would work on foam board. It's basically a spike that adheres to the sheathing of the building and spikes the insulation in place, usually has a round locking tab to fit over the spike to get the insulation in place...

After this thread I added a 6 mil vapor barrier over the fiberglass insulation that is in contact with the metal siding. Hopefully this will limit moisture from reaching the metal wall, although it limits it's escape path as well (can't win). I agree, should have considered spray on...

In retrospect, I wish I had considered other insulation options- but didn't at the time. In the configuration above- wouldn't the condensation just form on the poly near the steel wall causing the same problem? I suppose having an airspace between the metal and poly or fiberglass might help-...

Not to hijack this thread, but I'm about to enter into a similar situation and have a question that may help the original poster. We have a new metal sided pole barn with a soon to be completed finished area that will be heated and cooled year round. I have used residential type kraft faced...

I've been reading the latest insulation threads and have been researching some options for possible insulation in the non-heated garage portion of our shop. I have a metal sided pole barn with vinyl backed insulation under the roof. The building is framed into three spaces, a heated/cooled...

I have a low spot where water accumulates, I used that product but it didn't work for me. Our door faces directly into the wind, so the wind and rain get under the door and by the storm shield and pools up. It would probably work if it wasn't for the wind so YMMV- there are reviews of the...