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I have a set of gojaks that work great, not sure how the cheaper HF versions work. This is a creative solution to quickly raising a car a few inches - good idea - thanks!

I have the same problem. Simple solution - glue down a section of garage threshold. I like the asymmetrical version where the thin part goes down so that the garage door seal comes down right along the edge. Clean the concrete well - wire brush or acid if you need to. Close the door and run a...

As far as sheetrock or OSB, I really like this stuff - LP SmartSide. Easy to install, water resistance (doesn't care if it gets wet), takes paint well, and strong enough to span 2' studs or girts with no problem. I would not use it on outside shed siding, as I don't think it holds up outside...

Sooner or later, that garage wall will have to be replaced. There is no cheap solution. Choices I see are: - excavate and build a retaining wall up-hill from the wall, but i doubt there is enough room to the property line, and perhaps not enough slope away from the wall anyway. - support the...

I intend to do this also, for the same reasons. I've looked at the lift manual and parts list, and the Challenger CL10V3 sure looks symmetrical to me - other than the lift arms. The two lift carriages have the same part number, etc. So i'm planning on installing the lift "backward" and...

For some reason, I wasn't successful in embedding the drawing of the floor-plan, so I'll try one more time:

Sorry, I should have made clear that the building is currently 100% storage for cars, parts, farm tractors and equipment, and trailers and is not presently used as a shop. My working shop is one bay of a 3-car garage, unfortunately without enough width or height to get a lift in. The steel...

Yes, this is what I'm currently thinking. Close to the right side wall, but just enough room to walk between the column and the outside wall (as long as I don't have too many more beers). Also lines up the inside of the right lift column with the right side of the door opening. Toward the...

Good point - and I get that the geometry for the arms would work a bit better with the posts being set wider, but with the CL10V3 there is only 6" in total difference between narrow and wide, so 3" per side would seem unlikely to be significant. I guess if I have to deal with moving cars around...

Good point - I have 12' high doors, so fortunately not much of an issue with that generally. With about 38' depth in the building, would you put the lift toward the front (near the door) or toward the back? I'm thinking toward the back, as if I have a car up on it, it may be there for a while...

Thanks everyone - good and useful comments to consider! I'm basically trying to keep the ability to have two rows of cars/trailers/tractors stored in the 20' bay when the lift isn't being used, without having to use my GoJaks to move them around the columns. I'm willing to give up a bit of...

OK - I'll bite, what the heck are "pecans runs"?:headscrat

Actually just stumbled upon a PDF of the instructions on the web - otherwise apparently not available without a specific request to Challenger. My slab is 6" reinforced 4000#, and the edge of the slab would be more than 12" from the closest bolt hole, worse case, as the walls are 10" in total...

I used 1/2 galvanized pipe for my shop, using the best practices suggestions TP Tools has in in their air system plumbing guide. I have drains at each low point, and sloped the main line downward from the compressor. The advantage of galvanized or black pipe is that it acts as a dryer of...

Yes, that would be irritating :-) I only have one vehicle that I'm currently likely to work on that has a solid axle... but worth considering!

Good suggestion on being able to pass between the wall and the lift column, had not thought about that... Thanks!

On a related note, any compelling (non-obvious) reason to set the post wide vs. narrow? Only 4 1/2" difference it appears, which seems insignificant.

Thanks - I know what you mean... I try to keep that side clear, as I usually store cars/trailer right against the wall. My thought was, given most of the cars I'll work on are 70" wide or less, I'll have 22" between the car and the lift post (if set wide), the post is about 14" wide I think...

I just ordered a Challenger CL10V3 with 2' extensions - best price I found was from garageautoequipment.com. I called around, and other vendors were a bit more expensive than these folks. Also, they were quick to respond to a few questions I had, so we'll see how the order progresses. My...