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Yeah, the worm gear is a much harder plastic/nylon/whatever. It sounds like the gears wore just from simple age (and from the grease wearing off over time), and not from poorly-operating doors. I had to mention it as most people with an automated overhead door take it's operation for granted...

You should check the balance and manual operation of your doors and have the spring tension adjusted and tracks lubed if necessary. A poorly balanced and/or rough operating door will wear out the gears in the operator. They're made of nylon as a safety to the operator. If something were to...

Going by the pics in your build thread, your gonna need to mount studs vertically over the R-panels behind whatever you're hanging. The studs will have to go from the floor to that one horizontal girt that looks to be about 7'-6" up. You will need a second base angle facing the opposite...

I can't get my ladder under the relay I'm using with my wife's car in the way, but I have a similar one in my cabinet that would work just the same. The relay is a Dayton brand, model 5X824M The socket is a Time Mark brand, model 51x120 On this particular relay, you would connect the wires...

No issues are possible because the lights are being powered by the exact same source. It has the original wall switch to open/close the circuit, but it will also have another switch on the same circuit to open/close the circuit. It's just like one of these splitters for a water hose: One...

I was thinking the tag on that tool cart looked like the US General logo. Thanks for verifying.

Good progress. That rolling work cart by the walk door- what brand is it? How does it compare to your ball bearing Craftsman?

I've seen a lot of bulbs that quit working due to arcing inside the sockets. Over time, the operator vibrates the bulb slightly loose in the socket which creates a tiny gap between the contacts. That style of operator, although pretty tough, is a quite a vibrating/buzzy one. The arcing...

This is the detailed input I needed. I now feel that I have a solid understanding of what I'm in for. Thanks for y'all's patience and explanations!

Is that the same blue tint that is listed in your color chart (bottom left), but a "custom blend"?

So, grinding will leave a grainy surface sufficient for the epoxy to stick to, comparable to acid etching, but more even? Maybe I'm just not envisioning this correctly, but I'm looking at grinding as leaving a very rough, chewed up, and irregular surface. My concrete has no float marks as it...

Can you elaborate on how the grinder will do a better job at preparing the floor than the acid will? The description on the equipment rental's site says: "The gasoline powered surface grinder features 6 grinding stones that are typically used for light concrete grinding applications. Normal...

That makes sense about the pH test. I'll probably do the TSP just to make sure. Wouldn't a grinder be way too harsh? My concrete is only 5 months old and has a nice and smooth finish. I just need it to have a little more tooth to it, not chew it down to the aggregate.

Didn't think about the flinging part of it. Also, I didn't know that all I had to do was "lightly run a push broom over it". I thought it was something that needed lots of vigorous scrubbing with a lot of pressure on a broom. Very insightful input. I have a pressure washer, which I was...

I'm not going to scrub 1200 sq. ft. of concrete with a plastic brush on a broom handle. So, I was thinking it would be a good idea to rent a 14" scrubber for the weekend and make it easy. This is the type of machine I'm looking at: I'll use the long-handled brush for the corners. Would...

Just because each device is on a 50 amp breaker doesn't mean each device is pulling 50 amps. Actually, the devices would only be pulling a portion of that and the rest is headroom. Also, the only time your welder might pull it's rated 50 amps is when you're welding something with it cranked to...

I plan to pressure wash my shop floor tomorrow as the first step to preparing it for epoxy coating. I'll also take a trip to the salvage yard since it's a 50%-off weekend. So, nothing extraordinary, but far more pleasurable than digging pieces of a rat out of a dryer.

Same here, which is why I'm using the $8 per sheet 7/16". Since you don't have a girt mid-way from the floor to the one at ~7', you should make a stud wall like what you posted a picture of. Put the studs on 24" centers and laid flat just like they are in the pic. The joints where each sheet...

If I can find a program on this iMac like MS Paint, I could throw together a simple drawing. This iMac is my wife's computer, and all I do with it is use Firefox. I don't browse through the programs as it has a bunch of programs with names that do nothing that the name insinuates. Picture it...

There should be two st screws, 90º apart. As stated, you don't want to tighten the set screws so much that you squash the shaft. This weakens it. You just need the set screws to lightly dig into the surface.