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The wet edge means don't broadcast any chips in a wet 6"-12" area as you go back for more liquid material. You don't want to backroll new liquid over previously applied chips or you'll have an unsightly high spot. Especially noticeable with polyaspartics. It's basically a buffer zone.

We use either an epoxy top coat (interior only), a urethane or a polyaspartic. You can use either of the three, check with your basecoat manufacturer for their specifications and compatibility. Keep in mind that polyaspartic/polyurea is not that user friendly. Very short pot life so if you're...

I would recommend the Armorseal. I have good results with the Armorseal High Solid Polyurethane. Have not used the 1K. Tile clad is pretty hard to clean after a few years without the clear. Good investment of $130. I use the SW soft woven roller covers 1/2" for the epoxy. If you are doing...

GG-Sweet! Is it a metallic epoxy with denatured alcohol or xylene sprayed on top? Polyaspartic or urethane?

There is a company called Citadel, I believe they are in Minnesota which offers a polyurea product. I get emails from them however I have no knowledge whatsoever of their products.

Sorry, forgot your other question. This type of floor will be slippery when wet however there are a number of aggregates you can add to greatly minimize this.

dr, All epoxies will fade badly outdoors however most polyurethanes will not. You can use epoxy as the base as long as you use a COMPLETE broadcast of chips, then a high quality polyurethane/polyaspartic topcoat. Here's a driveway we just finished yesterday in Chandler.

We don't acid etch/rinse , we diamond grind and use rapid curing products.

The previous homeowner installed the epoxy 5 years ago.

If it's in your budget then do two. It just adds to the thickness and longevity of the floor. Be sure to check with the manufacturer about the recoat window, if any. You may need to lightly sand the first clearcoat to accept the second. Here is a picture of a five year old single coat big box...

No reason you can't go up the wall. You can also use regular paint to match the floor but obviously the epoxy will be much stronger.

We use a local sign shop. Applied white background color then the vinyl. It is peel and stick and very sticky. Make sure it's lined up just right as you have one time to do it right.

All we do are full chip applications. Just be sure that your base color is somewhat similar to your chip colors. I once had to use a grayish base with a brownish chip blend. You can see a gray "haze" slightly. The customer was cool with it but I would have preferred not to have forgotten the...

Did you scrape the floor prior to applying the polyurethane? The good news is with the next coat you'll get about double the coverage.

The epoxy is going to fade/chalk in short order. The outside area needs a matching polyurethane topcoat. All epoxies fade outside.

Just about all of our garages are full chip broadcast. On certain garages, such as ones that may have a paver or aggregate driveway, we'll take the epoxy outside to the transition but we'll topcoat the 4"-12" with a highly UV stable single color urethane that matches the driveway. Yes, I have to...

We always tape a line under the door unless a customer specifically requests it be taken to the joint. In my opinion it looks strange to have a small section of coated concrete poking out into the driveway. You could have the finest polyurethane/polyaspartic and it will change colors over time.

We use Sherwin Williams Contractor Series-Soft Woven. Be sure to get the white ones. They come in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2". Not all stores carry all sizes but they can get them for you.

PCD's are polycrystalline diamonds. They are used for old coating, thinset, mastic etc removal. They do not prep the concrete for new coatings, you'll need to use regular diamonds after the PCD's.

Yes you should rent the vac that goes with it. Most if not all shop vacs cannot handle a diamond grinder. Good luck.