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I don't know about making the panels yourself. I suspect it would end up costing more and taking more time than conventional framing. We've done a couple SIPs projects in our office and it's always a mixed bag. They are good for simple structures but when the building forms starts getting...

I put some #3 bar into the larger patio slab sections. Basic 3-4 ft o.c. grid. Some of the smaller patio sections I didn't bother. I just hadn't gotten it cut and tied off when I took the picture of the empty forms. Actually, I didn't get the patio rebar cut and tied off until about 20...

Thanks for the comments guys. There might be a bit much rebar for just a shed but I wanted to give the structure the same integrity as the house. It's all #4 rebar with two horizontals in the 10" wide x 8" deep footing and three horizontals in the 3 ft stem wall. Verticals are spaced at 24"...

I did a steel c-chanel edge in our kitchen (see below). However, I was able to anchor it into solid plywood. I'm not sure the particle board would be strong enough to take a screw connection, especially if you plan to do some hard work at this bench. I think I'd look at gluing and bonding...

The only thing I can suggest is either build a support ramp out of 2x to help you slide / support the roof panels until they are on the roof. Or. Lift the panels up parallel to the edge of the roof eave so they are oriented up and down (like a beam, instead of flat like a plank). Once you get...

Looking good James! I was glad to see the continuous head trim over the window instead of the one with three segments. It can be annoying sourcing continuous pieces sometimes but the end result looks cleaner and tidier with fewer joints. Your comment that you wouldn't hire yourself hit home...

When the bottom of the trench was finally leveled and compact then it was time to set up the formwork. The outer forms were set up first and set on the ground. Then shims were built up under the boards until the whole form was leveled with the laser and anchored to some stakes. Some...

Ok, now that my site is back up and running. . . some updates: After the excavator was returned to the rental place it was time to do some final shaping with the hand shovel to get the bottom of the footing trench flat. Some areas that were over-excavated needed to be filled up and compacted...

I'd do a continuous piece of flashing across all three windows . . . fewer seams = fewer potential leaks. As for exact placement of the flashing . . . "I" would think that you'd want the flashing over the Harditrim. . . but you don't have flanged windows so maybe doing it the way Harditrim...

Nice clean tar paper install. :thumbup: But can you tuck it under the vertical flaps of the window flashing? Remember, think of coursing the whole wall assembly the way shingles. Think how they over lap to shed water toward the outside of the wall assembly. You want to do the same thing...

Looks good. One tip, if you're game for it. . . . I love the extra high ceilings and the tall windows. Were it my place I'd re-do the garage door tracks so they would go up the wall and tuck tight to the ceiling. That way it wouldn't feel like the garage doors are chopping that volume in...

Well there you go. The Tyvek will be just great behind the Hardiplank siding. One of the things I like about the Tyvek is that it is a lot more resistant to tearing so that by the time you're done wrapping the structure there's a better chance the weather resistive barrier is intact.

I've set myself a goal of getting the footing (and patio) poured by June 5th. On one hand that's almost 3 weeks away and I should definitely meet that deadline. On the other hand it seems a bit daunting as I still need to properly level out the bottom of the trenches, set up the footing...

Felt or the house wrap . . . either way. The benefit of the 15# felt is that it has been around a long time and still does well even after over 100 years of in service use. At least, that is what we find on houses in the Seattle area that our office remodels when they get opened up by the...

Some of the info does conflict a bit and some, such as the Vapro PDFs are hard to read (with their yellow-on-white lines). My main concerns are these: Weather Resistive Barrier I'm not seeing a "weather resistive barrier", what is commonly called building wrap, building paper, 15# felt, or...

Thanks.... Here's the latest, bunch of stuff happening recently: - Finished laying out the string lines. - Transplanted a tree that was in the way - Marked the rough outline of where I would need to excavate - Failed to get the intended tow-vehicle running, nearly caught it on fire -...

I would recommend you re-do the flashing around the windows. You need full coverage where the flashing overlaps. Also, it wouldn't hurt to get your building paper wrapped on the building before going too much further so that you can properly course all the layers of the siding assembly. Here...

Thanks guys. It was interesting going over the budget discussions between the client and contractor. Originally the client wanted to pull about $300k out of the house but as time went on they reconsidered and decided to build the house they wanted and ended up putting back most of the things...

Starting to lay out the string lines on the shed. It took me a few days to get the batter boards set up right. And it's taking me some time to make very careful measurements to get the strings 1) in the proper alignment and 2) at true right angle to eachother. Just remember, it's a 3-4-5...

Some lumber stores have cost-effective butcher block planks that could be put down. If they are simply screwed on from the bottom there would be no visible fasteners on top and could be sanded / replaced as needed. The spare VCT tile may work, too, but it also may get scratched up with use...