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Here are some more pics of mine. It looks a hair different than other 1644s as mine has 2 locking blocks to prevent it from rotating while others have 1 friction screw. Mine also goes a full 360 degrees. Also, I didn't find an E clip.

I've been looking for a cool old vise for the past few months, but I'm cheap and busy. Today I stumbled across an estate sale and bought this vise and Kennedy 520 tool box. I'm kinda of kicking myself since a guy there pointed out a pipe jaw that he thought went with this vise, but it didn't...

Has anyone had good luck repairing or replacing the air lock valve on a Bendpak 4 post lift? Mine is leaking, I tried tightening the collar around the push button (and it threaded in a good bit) but then the button wouldn't allow any air through when pressed! Bendpak wants $40 for a new...

Thanks, I'm only worried about keeping moisture out of the crack before the first freeze since, as you can see, some of the crack is wet with rain.

My 32x50 floor was poured in late May and now (5 months later) I've noticed a small crack forming. It's probably 6" long and hairline, for now! I'm not necessarily the type to panic over a minor crack. HOWEVER... the crack starts and ends at saw cuts. One end of the saw cut is just inside an...

My Bendpak HD9 was never bolted down since I bought it new in 2009. It has since been moved to storage and reassembled in my new garage a few weeks ago. What I found most entertaining was that the concrete fasteners it came with seem too long to allow you to roll it around on the casters!

Isn't that why this thread was started, to see what the options are?

There is no expiration date on these tanks, propane tanks age out at 12 years. The big plug rounded off when I tried to unscrew it. I wound up drilling a bit smaller than the root diameter, about .450" and picked out the threads. It seems to be ok now. Thanks for the replies!

That big plug seems REALLY tight (yeah, it has to be)... but is it supposed to come out?

So I have a Craftsman compressor from 1997 and I haven't been the best about draining the tank... mainly because I keep damaging the flimsy drain they put on these things. This time I really buggered up the drain. To the point where it's in multiple pieces, some of which are in the tank! Is...

Unfortunately I have to say this rebuild was a huge fail. I finally got around to changing the over pressure hardware. I pulled the caps and wiped up whatever spilled out. I counted the number of turns to bottom out the adjusters then removed the adjusters, springs, and valves. I assembled...

I haven't tried yet. I'm planning ahead at this point.

Thanks for all the replies. It looks like I'll either have to roll the dice and hope they fit or go with traditional openers (which aren't much cheaper after you get the extensions for 10 foot tall doors). The problem with running another outlet is that the liner panels are sandwiched between...

My new garage is mostly done and it's time for door openers. It's 32 x 50 x 12 with 2 doors on the gable end, 10 foot and 16 foot wide, both are 10 feet tall. I had the doors spaced 2 feet from either end of the garage with 2 feel in the middle. I new I preferred a jack shaft opener and read...

Good points, which is why I was going to put it in the wall. Either way I was going to make a plywood box as a cover for the pex and manifold. If I keep the PEX out of the wall that box will just have to be a bit taller.

So based on the answers so far it sounds like it doesn't matter from a technical point of view, just convenience issues! In the wall offers some protection, but more work. Only 'some' protection since my bottom girt won't be in when the concrete is poured anyway.

Outside the wall because it's more organized and less complicated that way?

I've started laying out my PEX and hung the manifold on a girt. Should I run the PEX from the floor up to the manifold in the wall (surrounded by insulation) or along the face of the wall? I'm going to have batt insulation with liner panel. I figured there will be a hole in the liner panel...

In the last pic the foam is flush with the inside of the door sill, in the other pictures (with the tape measure) you can see there was room for concrete to get under the door sill. I formed the foam board to fill the room between the first vertical layer of the foam and the bottom of the sill.

I'm talking about the man door in the picture. If I leave the insulation as is you will be able to see the insulation sticking up out of the floor.