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2 height; 28wide x44deep garage first 20' are 12' high for a futur lift. last 24' are 10' high to maxime height in the liveable trusses. 5/12 slope trusses with 1' and 3' raised heel to have a "straight roof" inside: https://imgur.com/mtUyVwO outside: https://imgur.com/g67P8Pt one 10'...

Yes its per pannel 4’x4’ Cost wasn’t that much higher then regular styro underslab insulation. Price in quebec doesn’t really compare to US

Not if you use that kind of isolation: took me 1hour alone to install 5 200' run in my 28x44 garage last year.. 1/2" - 12" spacing, counterflow run

Pan head screw or washer head screw like this: https://www.rockler.com/kregreg-coarse-fine-maxi-loc-square-drive-washer-head-pocket-hole-screws-8-screws The washer head screw is how I attached the door core that I used to finish the interior of my garage and they worked awesome (bought a box...

I have a fan that look like an HVAC fan(squirrel cage) with a 10" exit and is capable of 1200cfm....it work great. I have made an adapter for a 6" hose and place it near my welding table on the ground.......the majority of fume is quickly extracted outside

Any air exhausted will be replaced by outside air ...so yes you will loose heat and cooling. But it's still way better then working in a fumed out shop!

look up the maintenance section of your lift manual. those kind of fitting are for oil normally on lathe or mill. but could be grease for your lift (that would be a bit weird since a grease zerk works way better then a needle nozzle :| )

Dentist don't need much air/pressure to run. plus the compressor is hidden in a sound proofed room most of the time. My dad sell construction air tool for 30 years, and we once had a dentist as a client. the whole cabinet was run out of a thomas twin piston (pair of them for redundency) and it...

Have a 1/8 steel plate bend just like the support on the tank and bolt it to whatever rolling support of your choice. the only force that is applied to a compressor and its motor(other then their respective weight) is the belt tension which is not much. no need to rubber mount as unless it...

horizontal 1x3 strapping at 24" center and vertical tin on it.

no gravel just compaction sand

I'ved put a vapour barrier under my slab (It has 2" styro insulation and tubing for the hydronic heating in the futur.) Mine is a full fondation with compaction sand. A friend did a monolitic 22x26 in pointe-claire and used the compaction sand too

3x3 would be plenty enough. just offset the center row a coupl inch of the garage door opener

I have a Longevity. but the Alpha and Everlast are getting hard to beat for beginner or small shop.

You need to find undisturbed soil with not vegetal in it and fill back But normally it shouldn’t be that far depending how long the soil haven’t been touched. 3/4 net would be way better then 0-3/4. Not a fan of 0-3/4 for fill

I have blocking at 4' and 8' in my 12' walls. (staggered seams) and sheating is horinzontal (7/16 OSB)

Bigger edge can juat be better. But 6” floor is way overkill. I went 5” and it was already overkill

you just have to predrill. It's not an issu in new wood stud....but for sure will crack a dried stud if not predrilled.

15mil vapor barrier is really the best for not much more then the 10mil. I went 5" 32mpa for my slab in drummondville. (But I have a full fondation). 5" just to be 100% sure not to have thin spot with a 4" slab. I also did 3'x3'x12" deep section were the futur lift post will be. Insulation...

I forgot to mention about the exterior insulation...which I have in my quebec,canada garage. Vermiculite: CAN have asbestos..but in fact there were only 1 or 2 of all the mine that had asbestos in it.