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Not a dumb question---it's a trick I learned only after many restorations, I bake the steel hardware in the oven at 220° for at least 25 mins or so after cleaning, and then a 2nd time after Boeshield wax. It turns out if you don't get the hardware *completely, totally, absolutely* dry...

It's back and just got one---pls buy them out before I get more for the truck & travel boxes...

I came across this Burr King model 562 circa 1953/1954 on a big auction site the other day. I have been hunting and restoring Burr Kings for a little over a decade, and every shop in SoCal has one since they were cast in Los Angeles and sold on Venice Boulevard for decades before they moved to...

I have a pair of Armstrong USA pliers that look identical (before Armstrong went the way of the Woolly Mammoth). They have saved me exactly 3 times in the last 5 years. One of those was time-sensitive, and nothing else but a very long-bent-nose plier would do. When you need them, you need them...

Ahh second good Knipex deal I've missed this spring (after Mobile Distributor Supply)

Wow I'm tempted. It looks cleaner than most I see. Must....resist...

I use a 1/4" Armstrong ratcheting combination wrench. I think it is probably significantly more compact and lighter than any of the ones posted, and I'm usually carrying a set of those wrenches anyways. Bit can go all the way through the ratcheting end, obviously, but it's not a problem if...

Just dropped by to say that it's awesome to see MattBlast making such high quality reproductions. I got one of the earlier Vinyl ones for my milling machine and it's also super nice and still looks perfect. Making fresh labels/stickers/badges is one of the only things I can't do/machine/complete...

Up in Ontario where we heat with wood, we have tried everything. My favorite, by far, is the Gransfors Bruks splitting maul. It's expensive and loved by people who collect axes. But, the curved concave shape of the blade really does work. Maybe someone makes a similar one for less than $200. It...

I think those might be the 15" heads. The clue is that the powerfeeds are the hydraulic type. I think their 20" drill presses used a standard geared powerfeed arrangement.

^^ Post a wanted ad on OWWM---I know a few people who had parts machines they were parting out to help others with rebuilds. The pulley does come up from time to time on Ebay as well. If you want new parts, you'll have to replace both pulleys so they match.

I totally understand the desire for a plug-and-play machine. But, in that case, post a Wanted ad on OWWM for a complete drill press that does not need bearings. OP's budget ($600) is more than needed to get a pre-restored (or mechanically restored) American machine. Restored DP220 and similar...

You should have a cord grip/strain relief where the cords go into the motor. The hole in the motor where they enter will be threaded to accept this (NPT-thread! if you measure, check against an NPT spec, as the nominal sizes are very different from the measured ones). It will be 1/2" NPT or 3/4"...

No. You're on GJ...surely you've seen all of us who have several American made Clausing, Powermatic, Delta, Rockwell, South Bend, Buffalo, Atlas, Electro-Mechano, etc. drill presses, all bought in fine shape for $100 - $400 plus an hour of your elbow grease (not to mention Solberga, Altzmetall...

^^ Can't believe it waited 4 days for you. Looks like it will clean up very well. Clausing still supports the machine, though they ask top dollar for replacement parts. People part them out on Ebay with some frequency, but OWWM.org people is the first place I would try if I needed parts--those...

Bigger drill bit & harder material = slower speed. Take a look: https://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/3660-5_F_Drill_Bit_Sheet_Update.pdf Your 400 RPM can do up to: 1.5" dia. drill in Alu 1.25" dia. drill in 'regular' mild steel like 1018 0.75" dia. drill in cast iron 0.5" dia. drill in...

Great deal. I have one because I believe it's the best 15" drill press ever made (and I have used them all). I have the pulley belt change version, since Reeve's drives can get squeeky or stuck on one place after they are run a lot, but pulleys last forever. On these machines, the table raising...

I've been looking for one of those---it's just the thing to work on my rifle:

A 'pro' paint job would mean full paint prep/stripped to bare metal, washed with paint prep/acetone, then 2k epoxy primer, then 2k top coat like Imron. The 2k part means isocyanates usually, which are probably the worst things in any shop, health-wise, and very dangerous. I have done it, and it...

^^^ This! Except instead of beakers, I use glass jars with lids on them (mason jars or whatever your breakfast jam comes in, or glass quart milk jugs for long bolts). I use Evaporust on all of the steel parts on machines I restore. Evaporust can be diluted. So, all hardware goes into a glass jar...