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This is also wrong. The whole system needs to be put together properly. It would be interesting to know what the specs on your systems are/were. It is not usually possible to have a heat pump carry the whole heating load in a heating dominant climate. It may not be economical, at the present...

That's like the absolute worst ******* place for duct takeoffs. If one is coming off of the top of the plenum in the other picture, that's the second worst place. Really need a minimum of 2.5x the duct diameter after a change before the first takeoff or the last takeoff, and those two across...

That's getting into load calculation and balance point territory. Um, no. A Bosch "low temperature" heat pump will put out the full rated output in heating mode down to ~5º F and still respond to a call for heating down to -15º F. The "regular" ones only lose 10% or so IIRC. Can also be fossil...

If you are excluding inverter models in the "typical heat pump", category, sure. One also needs a load calculation to determine the balance point, which uses the published heat pump output specs. The economic balance point can then be figured.

But the OP insists that it's a duct problem... 🙃

Not necessarily. Flue and register temp on a condensing furnace could easily be only 95 degrees. An inverter heat pump can have a discharge air temperature over 100 degrees.

The return drop is not a big project. Stuff can be changed to improve airflow. Temporarily remove the water heater for access. The lined ductwork should not be needed for noise.

Replace the ductwork. Steam close to the air filter still might be a problem.

But you still don't know if the heat pump is correctly sized. It worked before with the gas furnace and the 38 registers. Multiple problems.

Absolutely, at your own risk.

I am not. But your white deposit issues might be fixed by a charcoal filter or a product like the one i mentioned above. Of course, giving the wife what she wants will be easier, even if it doesn't work.

There is a whole paragraph of comments about softened water above the table. There are whole house water filters marketed to address light mineral buildup such as: Aqua-Pure AP917HD This requires a filter holder. There are several variations on a theme here, and it is up to you to do your own...

The water softener will reduce grains, correct? So the water supply will have to be taken before the softener, resulting in the same "not recommended" range you have now. Note that "not recommended" is not "no". Your 2.4 reading is closer to 3 than zero. Kind of a **** shoot. The only one...

Duct takeoff placement on the main trunk line can significantly alter expected results. It is possible for a takeoff on the supply side to act as a return if it is placed too closely to a change in direction. Without knowing original equipment size, existing equipment size and building load...

Shouldn't freeze in heating mode.

Without a load calculation, you don't know if it's sized right. And 80k btu furnace can output more than double a 3 ton heat pump, above 47 degrees F. Could be 4x as many btus at 20 degrees. It isn't your ductwork. Good luck.

No, you want a longer run time. Less cycles.

It isn't just the fan. In my experience, residential ductwork is installed poorly because that's what the builder pays for when the lowest bid is selected. Returns are usually deficient compared to the supply, without factoring whether or not the ductwork system is sized properly. The variable...

What size was it? Yes, it is. How was the air flow before? Is there enough heat being supplied? Back to load calculation and balance point. If it's maxed out, then there is no more. How do you KNOW this? Load calculation? Balance point? Did you or the HVAC contractor perform these...

If it "worked" before... Was a load calculation performed? What is the balance point? What is the economic balance point? Airflow defined as "powerful" or "*****" is not a measurement. Is ChatGPT a HVAC tech? There is no fundamental difference between "furnace" ducting and "heat pump"...