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I know that it is at least somewhat hardened which makes me question the temp read out of the first oven. But I also figure that giving it another go isn't going to hurt anything.

I think just age. We don't normally heat that high so it hadn't been tested. I did get the newer one in a different building up to 1650 tonight though so I should be good. The way the parts sat in there they were only about 1/4" from the top so I had it packed full. I do think on this next...

They are black and slightly mottled. A file skates over them but a center punch does leave a slight impression.

Well, I gave this a shot today and it bombed. Turns out the oven wasn't able to get above 1250 today so it was all a waste. I will have to try again on the newer oven instead of the antique one that I was using. Any idea what the yellow crusty foam is from that spewed out today while it was...

I assume that if I make the container, line it with paper, fill it and shake it until I can't get any more compound in and then weld a lid on that would also work? It will make my quench process take a bit longer as I cut off the end of the container when I pull it out. I assume since I have...

Making the container out of square tubing is going to be easier than a stainless pouch but I do have some stainless foil if that is superior. Either way, is it necessary for the container to have a lid or as long as the powder is covering the part that is all that matters?

If/when these fail I might try to make a set out of 4140. There are ends that will be welded onto these to prevent them from sliding laterally on the base jaws so I was concerned with weldability as well as ease of finding a piece of high carbon steel angle to save machining time.

So preheat the part to 1650 and allow that to soak in. Have a piece of stainless foil laid out that will cover the jaws. Lay out a bed of powder in the foil. Move the jaw to the bed. Add more powder on top of the jaw to full cover it. Add some paper to burn up the oxygen. Fold the...

Can you tell me more about the SS packet process? I'm willing to give that a go. I love learning and trying new things. Found this as well for the skeptics:

Sure will. Thanks for the reply.

I missed the powder. That's why I'm here asking questions. Perhaps I just got overly frustrated with the comments that seemed to imply that I need to make these parts from high carbon steel which I know definitely isn't the case. Case hardening is usually the way to go in a tool in order to...

Maybe. Just sounded like some of the responses were concerned about the carbon content in the base steel. Case hardening a piece of low carbon steel like A36 is possible. To do it you are heating it in a high carbon environment and effectively adding carbon to the outside surface which is...

It's just A36 which is why I need to case harden it. Sounds like some of you are confusing through hardening of high carbon steel and case hardening of a piece like this.

A while back I inquired about hard jaw covers as the vise here at work has a set of soft aluminum V jaws that I machined installed and I know eventually some gorilla is going to come along and damage them with some big hunk of random steel that they want to beat on. Nothing seemed readily...

Every now and then I have a repair application come up where the best method of repair would be to inject glue or epoxy either into a small space or through a small hole and then to clamp in place as the pieces cannot be opened up. In this particular case the rubber lamination is coming off the...

You can't see that? The needle is maybe .006" wide and the spacing of the marks is around .075". I can clearly see how close it is to one mark compared to another. My childhood years of analyzing which piece of pie was the largest prepared me for this in life. I started out concerned that 5...

This sounds like collet repeatability. My concern is total part runout. If the total runout that I was seeing was caused by only collet repeatability it should change as the test bar is taken out and rechucked. It does not.

Needle sweep estimation. With an analog gage you get a pretty good idea of how far the needle goes between the indications.

So that I can turn square shafts instead of tapers and drill true holes of the correct size in exactly the center.

Is this what you are looking for? The outside edge of the mount flange has .0006" The inner edge of the mount flange has .0004" The diameter of the mount flange has .0004"