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I'll say that the racks we have at work are rated for 7K lbs, and for cars and light trucks, very few issues. However, I tried lifting an extended cab K3500 with a Duramax/Allison, and it wouldn't do it, nor will it lift an H2. I would also consider the width of the unit, as wide track vehicles...

Struts are easy and safe now, thanks to this guy: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N5MMGW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Found out today a Matco :shocking:88 tooth:shocking: is on the way.

if it is in good shape, you stole it. It is a great box - i know guys that have had them for 15+ and they are STUFFED, and still provide professional service every day.

Because in 90% of situations, they are TOTALLY unecessary. The remaining 10%, not having the tool would require only slightly more work than having the tool, and its more money spent on a large, bulky tool that wastes space in your tool box.

Which hammers to they make? The Red-composite shot-filled dead blows? Because if so, I have always wondered who was the OEM of those, they look IDENTICAL to the other tool truck hammers out there! Like these...

Are the joints themselves bad? Can just the boot be replaced? Going ACdelco?

We don't even need a real reason, just the possibility of a reason, to buy more tools. Doctor, please help.

You beat me to it - Walmart starts putting the kites on the front display on 45 degree days. Welcome to Kentucky - Arctic Winters and Tropical Summers. And if you don't like the weather, just wait till tomorrow.

Use a hammer, aluminum or not. You won't hurt it, and you won't believe how fast it is.

Its getting to be more and more common, even on some full size trucks! Many Upper Control Arms (for vehicles that have them) have been aluminum for years, but, I see more and more al-u-min-um these days. 1 good slam into a curb in a parking lot - there goes the Caster.

There really isn't a lot of force required. I mean, some times you can just pull the shafts out with your hand.

I love it when I don't care about turning hours. However, the other 99.94% of the time, it seldom pays for the headache, effort, and experience required to do it properly.

For separating the balljoint from the steering knuckle? Well if you don't care about tearing seals, doing damage, an appropriate sized pickle fork. Otherwise, just give it four or five hard hits with the sharp point of a hammer (to break the taper loose), then either pry it down, or go ahead and...

I have plenty luck the the prybars from this set. I don't think, in most situations, it requires anything special. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=8920&group_ID=1005

What about these? http://matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=3573&page=2&#63611 I have them, but a 13mm almost always does the trick for me. They do work very well, though, they grab with as much as you can put on them.

Its like dating a supermodel. So much to put up with, but when your "using" her, it makes it all worthwhile :thumbup:

Look for MADE IN ITALY. The older horse and ponies are GREAT - as long as it has a cast-iron frame/chasis. Nearly all of them, as well as nearly all lawnmowers today, are made by MTD, and they are f#@$in junk.

I defend these ratchets, but the 1/4" is MUCH better than the others. Someone else put it well (can't remember who), but the smaller the better when it comes to these ratchets.

You must be talking about the whole rust under the wheel speed sensor, traction engaged with normal driving, but no codes set? Good guess?