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No luck i got some wear (see my thread). went ahead and dissassemled, it was easy 2 minutes...no steel rod but used a socket extension here’s a pic of what you’ll see.

yeah not good. reassembled tonight and noise... i’m certain that’s the shaft spinning in the quill bearings...just too much slop there. Not enough adjustment on the collars to reposition to a good part of the shaft. Possibly new bearings will take up some of the tolerance but i can see and feel...

yeah, I don’t think there’s anything scientific there, it’s just to hold the bearing in. I just spun mine back hand tight then a tap or two of the drift punch. From a glance at mine getting the bearings out aren’t that simple, i can’t say for sure but i think you’ll need a 8”+ steel rod to...

I see what you mean on quill reassembly there i can move the top collar down to take up the slack below. I’ll try that, i can move the shaft about 1/4 of an inch back and forth without the collars locking that movement down. looking i see some slight wear (light ridge) on the spindle shaft at...

Hi steve, yeah i was thinking that too, the bottom collar gets pinned in so you can’t really adjust that to prevent upward movement, the top is a set screw so that would stop downward. But I’m thinking here there’s a good chance with all the penetrant and banging, putting the chuck back on i...

My spring return cap is a bit loose, not sure if that’s normal or not. The part number for the 2 are the same. If i spin mine around so the tabs fit in a certain place it stays put

Still fine tuning, drill’s been running, vibration much better after getting a correctly sized belt, but today I noticed I could move the spindle up and down a bit and it would move thru the lower bearing. I figure all the penetrant and finally running the drill loosened that up along with wear...

Had a few minutes OP, just fyi righty tighty, i had it easy. Removed quil wrap in towel put it in the vice, couple light taps with a small punch it spun right around! pure luck....

I will probably be pulling mine apart tonight, I noticed today i could move the shaft up thru the lower bearing and i’m sure the penetrant that was sprayed on everything there along with running the drill now that it’s together loosened that up. So while it’s loose is a good time to re-remove...

I’ll let the others chime in as i did not disassemble that yet iirc that was a standard thread or i assumed it was too. I started reading up on that but was rushing to get mine reassembled with the intention to change them later. but not sure if i will unless it develops play or noise, (not...

I remembered something from your pic. Are those bearings on that spindle sealed, they look it? I’m thinking they’ve been replaced, or maybe atlas hadn’t changed over the casting yet. I’d think they need to be open bearings for the grease cup? Check out franklee's post and pic here...

I suppose those you needed to periodically push grease into those bearings mine are sealed and at some point they switched to sealed bearings, i see all the older atlases seem to have that.

i’m wondering about that grease/oil cup? i don’t recall seeing one with those and mine didn’t have that either but a quick google i see the part. Low serial number, maybe that’s earlier models and it’s in one of the owwm docs somewhere? mines like 14474 serial I followed franklee’s faq and just...

I’d pay 85 for that no questions asked if i was looking for one, looks to be in good shape and don’t see anything missing at a glance (spindle cover is usually missing at least), table looks to be in decent shape too, can’t see spring return side. That said unless i was looking for a project or...

It’s not just the black pumps. I have a matco branded 60gal IR t30, it’s from the 90’s. It aint’ just the pump that’s the different, they had a grey t30 and a baldor. After loosing a motor on a black ss5 i went looking for an older unit as i’ve seen more threads on the motors failing on those...

forgot to add, with the trim boards you’ll want to round over the outside top and bottom edge with a round over bit (trim router and 1/4 bit be fine). You can use lower grade but then you’d have to fill, sand,etc to get them to look nice, with the appearance grade you’d just paint em done...

if we’re talking dressing it up for cheap. 1x4 or 1x6 pine trim boards the appearance grade kind , have them proud 3/4 inch over the framing. For top..depends on what you do,inlay a melamine panel. i do a lot of wood working and other stuff, grease, glue, epoxy, whatever just scrape right off...

STEM is going to be pointless if you keep outsourcing and h1b importing. Don’t think it’s just technology, accountants are getting outsourced, engineers you name it. Companies with access to that exploit it, and internally you’re told to look for a low cost alternative before insourcing. While...

I live in a block house. Just go out and buy a cheap corded hammer drill, it’s not anything you use every day, i use mine once a year. But i will say with tapcons, hammer drill + impact them in works best. I would break tapcons all the time until i used an impact to put them in, haven’t broken...

They also pump out incredible huge loads of unskilled (if you can even call it that) sold as h1b high skilled. Anyways they pump them out because there’s opportunities there and they know it. I’d argue, the shortage of labor is because of the outsourcing and the importing (h1b huge fraud). Tell...