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A thin layer of what? What is this 'concrete glue' you speak of? How was the existing slab surface to be prepped? Actually, never mind. I can answer your question right now. No, the "thin layer" won't last any longer than it takes your check to clear. I don't mean to be flippant but you...

Not necessary. The next day is fine. You could probably start now. The only risk at this point is mechanical damage from prying, etc.

Great job and congrats on a successful pour.

I assumed the building would be heated. Is this question referring to periods of time when the heat is turned off for some reason? If the building will be unheated, there's s no reason for stem walls at all. A standard monolithic slab with haunched edges is all you need. Actually, this is...

It's obviously challenging to diagnose a problem from pictures but I think it's safe to say it's not normal “concrete shrinkage cracking”. If I had to venture a guess, I'd say the second load wasn't adequately mixed in the truck. The cracked areas look like there's not enough cement, which...

Looking at some of your subsequent pics, it appears you braced your 2x4 bottom plate but depended on screws to secure the studs to the plate. This is nowhere near adequate as you discovered. No matter how well you anchor or brace the bottom plate the plate/stud connection is the weak point...

We've done countless placements like yours and have never done anything special to anchor the forms down. Certainly not enough to resist concrete pressure - just to hold them in place during construction. I suspect the lifting you saw was due to the bottom of the forms failing and the...

The corners, doors, windows would be out of plumb?! The ridge and eaves would slope?!! No freakin way! He's on crack. At the very least, I'd insist on a curb to level up the bearing for the structure. It could be formed and placed monolithically with the slab pretty economically...

There must be some mis-communication here. Are you saying that you believe it's his intent for the studs to be perpendicular to the sloping slab i.e not plumb? There is no way anybody would think that's a good idea. If that's the case, I'd dump this guy immediately.

Don't hold your breath. lol. The lift manufacturer's engineers are fine with an un-reinforced, 4" slab. The GJ engineers declare the 6" unreinforced floor must be torn out and redone with 12" of reinforced concrete. We love our overkill round here.

I think you are probably fine to install a lift but obviously check with the requirements of your unit's manufacturer. Rebar isn't generally required for lift installations on existing slabs as long as the minimum concrete depth requirement for the anchors is met. Rebar or mesh doesn't make a...

There really isn't a significant advantage to increasing the psi much above 4000 psi. Even 4000 is overkill from a structural standpoint but a slightly higher psi provides a little extra cement that helps with surface durability. 32 x 44 is really pushing the limits of avoiding shrinkage...

If you don't choose to go radiant, skip the under slab insulation. Just insulate the perimeter to keep the frost from getting under the slab.

It's very unlikely that the presence or absence of under slab insulation would have any effect on a slab cracking. Most cracking is the result of shrinkage and the rest is the result of inadequate base construction.

Best of luck and congrats on the new shop.

I wouldn't bother with floor drains if you're not going pitch the floor to them. With regard to your overhead door sills, any competent finisher knows to pitch the slab away from the door but I suppose it won't hurt to ask.

I don't think you'd notice the difference from a cost or comfort standpoint with or without it and you wouldn't recover the cost in your lifetime from increased efficiency. Personally, I'd forego it and put the money saved in my pocket.

What is your priority for the floor? If it's appearance, polished concrete is an option but it will be slippery and show every wave and ripple. If it's stain resistance and durability, a better option might be a high quality penetrating sealer/densifier. It will give the floor a nice satin...

What are the barn walls currently bearing on? Is there an existing foundation? As has been mentioned by others, I'd want the concrete at or below the wall plate. A vapor barrier blocks water vapor from the soils from migrating through the concrete into the building. While I'm guessing your...

Curious about the 12" footers? It's hard to say what the new floor elevation should be but the existing floor height seems like the logical place to start. With regard to base material, this is going to be a bit controversial but if the existing soil is stable, there is no need to replace it...