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Monolithic slabs are a perfectly viable option for a structure such as yours. I have several myself and we have pretty severe winters up here in Maine. There is an increased risk for frost movement but if you have decent soils, the risk is minimal and can be mitigated almost completely with...

If you have clearing and grubbing to do, a mini-ex will be your best bet. You can dig out some pretty good sized stumps if you are patient and work at it. The first step is always to remove all organic material completely, which includes stumps, vegetation and topsoil. It's a good idea to...

The nature of your native soils will determine how much of them you need to remove and replace. You mention needing to excavate 12 and 24 inches, which presumably is for the interior slab and perimeter haunch respectively. Let's say your native soils are decent and your new slab will be 3"...

People tend to overthink this sometimes. I wouldn't mess with mesh, dowels or bonding agent. Square it up if the aesthetics matter to you. Otherwise compact the soils well and scrape a little soil from under the existing concrete edge so the new concrete will run under the lip and key things...

XPS and EPS are tested in accordance with ASTM C578 for under slab use. I'm not sure if other materials are as well but that would be a good place to start.

There could be a number of causes including those mentioned as well as inadequate air entrainment. I'm sorry to say that it will be virtually impossible to repair. I wouldn't even try. I'd live with it or rip it out. Hopefully your contractor will stand behind his work. All of the reasons...

Obviously the PSI of the concrete isn't an issue and in geotechnical terms, the demands on base soils are actually pretty modest especially when you consider the load is spread out by tire footprint, baseplates, slab, base material etc in a cone shape. If I recall correctly even fairly poor...

The question shouldn't be how many psi a slab can carry but rather, how do I well do I need to prepare the base under my slab. If the base under your slab is stable and able to support the loads placed on it, a 4", 3000 psi is plenty stout enough for a lift or anything else your likely to put...

I realize the OP asked this question a month ago and has probably moved on but I'll add this for those that are interested. The most important question shouldn't be fiber vs rebar vs mesh, it should be how will the base under the slab be prepared. If the base under the slab is stable and able...

I see you aren't getting much in the way of responses. I suspect it's because it's hard for any of us to tell you which of your options you should pursue. All of them are perfectly viable but the choice depends on what you want from the floor and how much time, effort and money you want to...

Concrete is stronger, more durable and transfers loads from sill bolts to the slab a better although fully grouted block is probably close. Either is adequate for the loads imposed by a typical wood framed structure so it probably comes down to cost. Concrete might be cheaper if your...

An overlay isn't really a concrete issue, it's an architectural one. Door openings being the major consideration but there are likely others. Assuming these can be worked out, the concrete part is relatively simple. Loads aren't an issue because the overlay is supported by the existing slab...

The quick answer is that the aggregate should not be coming up, which suggests the cement paste at the surface is weak. Unfortunately, there is no easy solution. There is really nothing you can apply to repair the problem. Hopefully the problem is localized enough that you can live with it...

We get 4'+ of frost. The key is to allow the soil to drain above and below grade to keep the moisture in the slab low and consistent under the structure. I've never checked but I wouldn't be shocked if I got a little movement under my buildings but as long as it's somewhat uniform, the...

Presumably your clay soil is impervious to water and thus reasonably frost resistant. As long as your gravel base is free draining, it too should be frost resistant. Unless you are planning to heat the structure with radiant, no insulation is an option. If the soils under the slab are...

Based on your post and the pics you provided, it appears like your sub base is basically native soils the have been disturbed and then roughly graded flat. It would also appears that we are talking about an inch or two of cut and fill to level things up. If this is the case, you don't need to...

The engineering you are looking for would only be necessary for structural elements. Rebar in most residential slabs and foundations is more about crack restraint rather than loading. Whataya building?

Unfortunately there is no easy fix here. I doubt any of your suggested ideas will result in a viable repair. You're not dealing with cracks, you're dealing with deteriorating, crumbling concrete in addition to what is very likely an inadequate base. The condition of the concrete at the joints...

In a smallish shop like mine, the open space is more than just aesthetic, it's basically a necessity. It would be less so in a large space there are still benefits such as unobstructed access to open vehicle doors and move around the vehicle. The operation is swift and smooth and I like the...

I've got an in-ground Rotary lift and absolutely love it. With no posts to deal with, there is a lot more space available. Obviously more upfront cost and a more complicated install but worth every penny if you can swing it. Pay attention to your slab elevation and flatness around the lift...