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Honeywell thermostats, one on each floor. Each has a programmable run schedule, controls AC and heat, fan has option for Auto or On. Fan will continue running even after reaching temp if left on run, though it does shut off for about 30 seconds once temp is reached before starting up again.

I am not sure if they are central or trunked - how can I tell? Today I put an air deflector on the supply vent in a lame attempt to direct air further out into the room instead of having it just drop near the return. I also covered the half of the return grille closest to the supply vent and...

Update: Spoke with the home warranty manager who was involved with the build process. He's telling me the return vents inside the rooms are passive, with one inside and one connecting vent outside each room door to help with airflow/pressure in the home. It should not be actively pulling air...

So I would need to buy a new thermostat that also has wireless sensors, correct? And this wouldn’t just cause the AC to run endlessly trying to get that room at set temp? I worry about this option because of the flawed layout and the fact that the system really has trouble getting below 68F...

Agree. It may be worth a try. Need to look into how to run wire for this.

Option on the right looks like a winner! My Air handler does have a digital ventilation controller that automatically adjusts for humidity control, though I’ve noticed increased rusting in the downstairs master bath hardware.

Agree, a conundrum indeed. My basic response to the complaints included the idea that there are 4 bedrooms and two living spaces in the house, time to get flexible and sleep in a different room.

I believe the dampeners are either buried in the ductwork, yes, but some I can see up in the duct about a foot from the vent covers.

Yes, it is zoned - so even if I turn the fan setting to "on" for one or both thermostats, it will not continue to circulate air at all? Or are you referring to a different blower circulation effort?

See illustration below - vents are green, returns are red, thermostats are purple and air handler is blue. I did not fill in the upstairs as it's out of my memory right now. The room in question is the Master Suite.

Minisplit somewhat out of the question because of the process to get installation approval and extra maintenance. I'd probably rather move the return/vent. I'm including a pictogram in this thread to illustrate. I may try this.

Ok, so back to the 5" filter with a lower MERV it is. Thank you! So the AC vent and ceiling return are unfortunately about 1-2ft away from each other, right in line with each other. Probably so builder could save a few bucks in ductwork costs, who knows. Downstairs thermostat is outside the...

Oh interesting, I've been told the exact opposite about the air filter size, but paying attention to MERV rating would make sense. I will have them turn the fan setting to on, as the current thermostats are capable of circulating continuously even with cooling off. Thank you!

These are the new tenants. Previous ones complained too 🤣

Apologies, “cheap thermostat” = temperature gauge. There is no thermostat in the room itself. I have had previous tenants complain about the room being warmer so it’s always been an issue to my knowledge with no changes to the system itself. I found out the $500 includes them measuring temps and...

I'm not sure how difficult, but I'm worried that even with thermostat relocation, the current layout of the system wouldn't allow for true correction. The AC would just run longer and/or the other rooms in the house would be colder.

Situation: Rental home - 4 bedroom, 2 story townhome built in 2014, located in central FL. Home has central AC, dual zone (one thermostat upstairs, one thermostat downstairs). Air handler and thermostats are just about in the center of the home. First floor bedroom is 3 - 6 degrees warmer than...