Search results

I just wanted to follow up on this. I was able to make fairly quick work of the bump with a chipping hammer (see below). I also scarred up the concrete that was previously untouched. Because this will be a fairly heavy and "soundproof" door, I want there to be a solid & airtight foundation...

To hopefully answer the questions, I'm only interested in getting a level surface for placing a door. The pic shows the area in question, with the black line indicating length. I'm not raising the level of the entire room. Yes this is a bit of a trip hazard from one direction only. The other...

It's about 12". The soffit is almost non existent. Any slant to the rain and this gets wet. But it's not 100% of the time. This makes sense. There is a moisture barrier underneath -- I'll have to try not to cut it. I think I have a plan, it just sounds like more of a pain than I...

I should have mentioned this will be an interior door between garage and shop. I'm converting the shop into a music studio so a soundproof-ish door is going here. It will have its own threshold and I'll be caulking any gaps underneath it. So I'll always have a tiny step here, at least on the...

I know the siders didn't always use matching caulk. But we had the house painted with 2 coats of Superpaint and it looks pretty good. But here because it wasn't a neat boundary, the painter probably taped it and it just doesn't look great up close. So I think one of you is saying cover the...

We had our house re-sided a couple years ago. They did a pretty good job but cut a few corners. I think this is one of them. It looks like, rather than removing this light & flashing around it, they just cut a hole for it and caulked if afterwards. I can't believe I didn't notice this when...

Here's a couple final pics, showing the wife's work area. It looks a bit low but I'm 6' tall and don't hit my head unless I stand too close to the nailer boards. Things held up great over winter. For now I just put some 2x4 braces up in each corner. Honestly, the perimeter gets a little wet...

I know there are similar threads on this but I just want to make sure I'm talking about the same situation here. This picture shows a stem wall in a garage that was cut to make room for a new door extending down to the bottom of the pic. As you can see, things are not level, especially left to...

Nice! This looks more like what I plan to do on the other side (thread pending). Can you say any more about what you did under the posts? Are those Sonotubes with anchors placed in the concrete?

Here are some pics of the build. I have another one to do with some different problems so I'll likely start another thread if I can't find the answers. Ledger board & hangers. I used GRK fasteners for the ledger board & nailer. Fortunately I had visibility to the interior framing so I could...

Thanks I'll probably take you up on that.

Yes, over the existing siding facing outwards. This is essentially what we did to our home since it was covered with partially rotting LP. It had no sheathing and no wrap so the siders said it was standard practice to remove the rot, sheath those areas, wrap the house and then put up Hardi...

Here's a drawing so you can see where the room I'm soundproofing sits in relation to the building. That door is already gone (I enter through the garage -- and that entry door will be beefed up). I will also be removing the two windows on the left wall, re-framing and re-siding. I'll build...

I didn't get into the whole design because I'm mainly concerned about the construction details related to the extra mass. But I do plan to add a layer of drywall to the ceiling. This is relatively easy because the existing ceiling is my outer leaf (as the roof above this space has many vents)...

@Josey Wales & @blkhonda1991 I do plan to build an inner wall. Ideally both walls will have 2 layers of mass to get a high level of isolation. I plan to use Green Glue on the inner wall but, from what I've read, it's kind of overkill on the outer wall (it's pricey stuff). And it does nothing...

While I'm fortunate enough to live in the country, a couple hundred yards away from neighbors, there is a lot of noise I need to keep out. Road noise, dogs, everybody out here apparently owns a small plane, and there's the gunfire. I'm thinking about sealing up the exterior wall to make it...

That's correct, no housewrap. What you described is basically what I suspected. I have already removed quite a bit of drywall and insulation. The insulation looks fine. The walls were sealed before I tore them up, so no ventilation -- I think. But I wonder if the siding just nailed to studs...

Actually, if I understand you correctly, it would hurt. The first diagram is a 4 leaf system, the second is 3 leaf, the last two are 2 leaf. 2 leaf is always the best. It just gets better if you add more layers to the 2 leaves (like 3+3 on that last diagram). IOW, one big air gap is always...

That's what I'm concerned about. I just don't know what really goes on inside the vapor barrier envelope. If it was wet before, wouldn't my siding be rotting from the inside? I'm essentially just adding something to that envelope. But yes, it happens to be something that is not tolerant to...

My experience with big box stores has been similar. Whatever you think of as the point of diminishing returns with picking out lumber by hand, once you've exceeded that it's better to go with a lumber yard. I've found the cost to be a little higher but not much. I will say that, last January...