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If you can buy a new one for $160 than dont buy it. If you cant buy a new one for $160 buy it! Pretty simple. Mark

Try this. Great to deal with and fast to ship tooling out. This item should adapt you to a standard and cheap r8 collet. http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=nmtb40r8 Mark

What 95Vette said! Stronger than whats there now. Also, pre-load the truss (center)with a floor jack and post, just a little, before installing plywood. That way when you remove jack after plywood is installed it will "settle" under the new "static" load of the plywood. Mark

Im gonna tell you what I would do....right or wrong " I feel" its plenty strong enough. I would sandwich the existing truss with 1/2 plywood (both sides, the entire truss), then cut out where you need the space. After that is complete, cut the appropriate 2x material: 2x6 bottom runner, 2x4...

We NEED photos !!

CaptainMarvel, one finds such a piece of steel at your local steel supply supply/fabrication shop. Mine is 28"x72" and cost $85 plus sales tax. Mark

I used 1/4" mild steel plate over double 3/4"plywood. I like it, when something hits it their is no metal ring, just thud. Mark

you can try: https://www.shopequipmentparts.com A local shop had one and Hunter rep/tech wouldnt even look at it when it broke, but if cones r all you need shoudlnt be too big a deal. They are pricey!! Try contacting Hunter direct, they may send a copy of manual, they did for my...

I would put the welder and welding table near the work table. Reason being, I prefer to have sparks near the garage door whenever possible, most of the time its open when welding/grinding, and I can try to keep the sparks pointed out the door. Just my silly thought process.

Does this garage have a flat roof or that a second floor above those joists? Mark

Sorry my bad...helps if I pay attention, for a 10' I would use 8' and 2', since your going with 30" deep you already need more than 1 sheet of 4x8. The strength comes from the two 8' pieces being held together over a 6' overlap. Mark

Stagger the seams..NOT at the center, run a a full 8' and a 4', use a 45deg joint as its stronger, (not 45 across bench as you look down at it, a 45 as you look at the end cut of plywood). By using a full 8' and 4' the joint lands in the center of the 8' piece when you over lap the next layer Mark

Myslow is right on the $. Take your time with layout, snap a lot of lines, it keeps it all nice and straight. If your going over concrete their is no need for a mud job, if concrete is uneven just use a self leveling material a day or 2 before you want to install tiles. Mark

Here's the heavyweight I just completed. Mark

LAROKE, around here if you dont use my first name: ******' , I wont respond!! And all people have to do is say, "hot water, heater"...lol Almost forgot, dont forget the dumb *** that wants to ax you a question....oooooo I just want to pound em into the ground!

Lookin' good, I like the curtain idea above the shelf. Mark

I set a circular saw to depth (1.5") and made repeated cuts, then pried/broke off the slivers. To clean it up real nice just use a carbide paint scraper,pull it across the area until the saw marks disappear. I cant cut a straight line with a band saw to save my ***, EVEN with a ripping fence.

Thanks everyone. Now I just got to decide on handles for the drawers. Was thinking of 12 gauge flat steel, 1 1/4 wide, and just bend it to shape, like this photo. Then paint black to match vise. GRX, the drawers have Poly on them, they were dresser drawers in their first life...

$85....it 72"x28.5" What does everyone think??....paint the drawer faces or leave them the natural wood??

Finally got the bench painted. Installed a 1/4" steel plate for the top and wrapped it with 3/4" Maple, as to match the drawer faces.:D