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I think you just need to upgrade

so let me guess $3.75 a square foot to put down 2 coats of epoxy, chips and a top coat. sound like a fair price to me. Yep... you can do it yourself and save labor cost. Question: How much do you think we should charge per square foot? How much do you make an hour? add that to your product...

so true... we I read this post, I just cringe... don't use cheap floor paint.. it will look like **** in less than a year.. as everyone is learning on this forum. floor prep is the most important step in laying epoxy flooring. Use a good epoxy product. I recommend staying away from...

Call Wayne at Durall MFG.. 800-466-8910 Ask him for the "Sunshine Urethane" its a hard uv rated top coat that will work awesome for your specification.. I've use this on a lot of acid stained garage floors and it work great. Kinda pricey at $99 a kit. I've also used this inside home when I...

I've been installing the broadcast quartz floors for 3 years now.. so I haven't seen any of mine older than that. My supplier has be in business for over 30 years and have some of these floors in manufacturing plants that are in great shape for the 20 + years in use. the top coat can be...

Durall has quite a few color to choose from As well as chip combinations Very good product and good guys.........Wayne is the sales manager there and will help you out with any flooring information www.concrete-floor-coatings.com

There are tons of Thin set overlay product out there you can use... Home Depot carries the readymix brand that is fairly cheap. Scofield makes some really nice overlay product that will work well too. of course, prep work is just as important doing a concrete overlay.. once again.. all oils...

Yep... go to a contractor rental store. they have floor grinders and polishers. Run approximately $65 to $120 per day.. you will need to buy the stones that go in them... they have few grit choices. Problem is with a floor that has not been spec'ed in the plans to having a polished finish it...

More important is that the floor has a "profile" that the epoxy can stick to. This is typically done in two ways Acid Etching and/or bead blasting.. most commercial flooring contractors bead blast because it's easier to control in a large enviornment and there is not a lot of hazardous...

That is true... in addition they also have carbide blade scrapers that attach to the floor grinders.work as well. now you want to start talking $.. those can get very expensive.

Durapoxy as well as other brand 100% epoxy mixes can be applied by pouring a 6" wide ribbon across the floor and using a squeege to spread the epoxy around... then use a 3/8" roller the "back roll" the epoxy even.. Down side to 100% epoxy products is that they have a very short pot life of...

that's sound good and all... but I think EpoxyCoat is misleading customers on how durable a one coat system is. yep it's inexpensive, but you get what you pay for. If it was my floor, I'd do more than one coat. Epoxy floors will rub back down to the concrete with wear. A thicker build up...

You may also want to go with a higher build epoxy product to do this as well. You can use them over your existing.. but remember to scuff the floor with 80 grit and clean before apply. of course I recommend Durapoxy product from the guys at durall (www.concrete-floor-coatings.com) Another...

over all.. these products are good and make for a very durable surface. but they do leave a Sandstone finish... but can be built up with more topcoats for a smooth finish. Epoxy motar systems are a pita for a beginner. You really need some experience with concrete/stucco/drywall floating and...

The only real solution to an Epoxy floor when doing heavy manufacturing is to use a Quartz aggregate broadcast into an 100% epoxy product. It is fairly expensive running $4/sq for product only.. but the stuff is very durable. I would do multiple coats/layers of the broadcast and build it up...

Very Nice build... yep they were free but looks like you have quite a bit of time in them.. good use of recycling. they look good:thumbup:

Doing a single coat with any product is just a bad idea IMO. It's just not going to last as long.. It may not peal or delaminate in time but you can wear through it. I've seen it and have repaired a lot of floors that people only did one coat. Trust me on this....... spend a little extra...

If you have a chaulky residue left... you need to rinse the floor a few more times and scrub it clean. you can use a concrete cleaner after the acid etch step to clean again. but just make sure to rinse very throughly. for the wood.... If the paint is not pealing and shows no sign of this...

Do not use any "Water based" epoxy product on your floor...... They will not last and will peal in 1 to 3 years... I repair appoximately 5 to 10 jobs a year because the owner used a water based epoxy and it has failed. spend the extra money on a quality petroleum based epoxy product.

OK.... no mater what product you use (regardless what they all say).....To get a great result on any type of coatings you MUST do more than one coat. do you paint your car with only one coat? 1st coat: look at it as a primer coat. put on very thin.. just to cover up the bare concrete.. its...