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I have been selling used tools for 18 years or so. From my experience of what has passed through my hands and talking with many mechanics, Snap on dual 80's are the preferred ratchet for many pro wrenches. That said, I did have several early dual 80's come through with teeth sheered off. I do...

Thanks, knew the rest was missing, didn't know there was a backing plate behind the belt. To be honest, with what little I have used it, I like not having the backing plate. The rest would be handy but I have another belt sander that has a rest. Also missing the belt guard which I may just...

As a reseller, I don't divulge what I pay for things, less hassle that way but this would be a walk off home run against your bitter rival. Sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you get burned buying the way I do. Overall, I hold a good margin on what I buy and sell but i do put a lot of time...

Sounds great and I can do the conversion and may very well have a 3 phase motor. What I don't have is the knowledge on how, why and when to change speeds or direction or for that matter, what grade belt to use. It came with about 10 extra 320 grit belts and about 6 belts that look like a very...

So I am at an auction buying tools as usual and I see this belt sander sitting in a row of shop equipment. Mainly automotive stuff. Take a quick look and see an industrial 1.5 hp TEFC motor, well built and looks heavy. Figure it's a good one and decide to chase it a bit. Reminded me of ones...

Believe the OP had a Cat direct drive pump and they can be quite hateful to remove. Far worse than any other brand. We typically drive wedges between the pump and motor and spray Free All on the shaft if we can. Often let sit overnight with wedge tension and sprayed well. Next day, drive the...

Nozzles with larger orifices will reduce pressure. Also, you can slow the motor down and reduce pressure and volume. Not a fan of using the unloader to adjust pressure, they tend to get over adjusted and cause too high of spike pressure to make the machine go into bypass. The primary purpose...

Never heard of caulking an engine shaft, stick with antisieze. As to rebuilding the pump, normally you just address the water end and not the crankcase end.. only pull the brass head off the pump. If there is a bearing issue, time for a new pump in my shop

The Pressure pro shown is the one we sell Building your own would be a doable project As to the engine, wouldn't worry one bit about the old one, it should keep on going Make sure your pulleys are sized correctly and lined up and belts tight

Don't know about goat but 40 years of selling and servicing will learn ya something :ROFLMAO: Happy to help when I can But Mike, without you, I would never see the questions

Like your design and the video is well done and the right length.

Camspray has decent equipment

OP, your thinking is correct about speed of pump. Slower they turn, the longer they last. Direct drive is easier to build if you can find a suitable motor. 1750 rpm motors are typically more expensive and harder to source for mounting to pumps. I would do belt drive with a 3600 rpm motor and...

Most side cabs in the past just had a lip that hung on the lip on the top edge of the roll cab. So as long as you have a lip on your roll cab, most any brand would work

Knew about the heater-up'r but never seen the butterfly sockets,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and I have a used tool store :ROFLMAO: Agree that the pipe wrench or cobra pliers would be my choice to break loose but I do wonder if the Knipex flat jaw plier wrench would work

Stainless Hansen are real nice but pricey. Stainless China are ok but much cheaper. You might try going with stainless plugs only. Most times the couplers get hard to use because the balls on the socket peen the lip of the plug out and make it harder to get off and on. Even worse on brass...

OP, in reading your post, I get the impression that you would be happier with the hi flow fittings knowing you are getting max that you can. Upgrade and put that concern behind you.

Yes, a 3/8 npt pipe coupler. This is a standard plumbing fitting. Thicker walled brass is fine as is a galvanized fitting. Stainless will work, just harder to find. Good luck! I assume one end of your whip hose has a swivel fitting on it. If not, you will need what I call a 3/8 pipe swivel...

I use a burr quite often when processing adjustable wrenches for resale. If they won't close all the way it is normally because it was used as a hammer. Where the adjustment arm exits the wrench when fully closed gets deformed because of hammering, I open up the hole with a burr. Quick and...

Had to google rotary file. Figured it was what is also called a burr. Seems my thinking was correct.