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Mesh is worthless essentially. It is near impossible to get it installed in the proper place in the slab. Furthermore, it really provides no structural strength but only serves to keep cracks that develope from opening up. In fact, paving industry consultants are recommending against it...

Those models...well....they're just beyond belief, plain and simple. I know these things are 1:24 but I was having trouble getting what size that actually is in my head. In the sixth picture there is a roll of masking tape sitting on the bench. By my calcs, that roll of tape is about a 1/4"...

It sounds as though you're buying the color and adding to the truck at the site. One word of caution, the color can vary widely based on several factors. You didn't indicate the total yardage that would be required but if it's more than one truck, make sure each truck has the same amount on...

For your garage project I would place contaction joints at 10' on center each using an early entry sof-cut saw (10' so it comes out even on your 40x70). This should be done the same day as the pour. Wait long enough that the saw creates a clean line but not so long that there's a chance it...

20x20 is much too far apart for control and contraction joints. The old standard use to be 225 sq ft or 15x15. The industry is quickly headed toward a recommended 8x8 ft grid to minimize cracking. Like you said, keeping it flat when pouring isn't an issue. But concrete can undergo a...

Based on the information you gave, I come up with a total deflection at the center of the beam of 0.38" or 3/8". I won't bore you with the reasoning or the calcs unless requested. I done the same thing in my attached garage above the door using only 2x4 lumber. However, I supported it at...

Bingo! Vandal or abuse resistant gyp board. Either has a thick high density sheet of plastic adhered to the back and in some cases sheet metal adhered to the back. Could also be Acetate, lexan, etc. Keeps people from smashing through the wall to get to the other side. Used extensively in...

Sorry, no pics but I've seen this done. Make sure you set any nails and screws a little bit and then take a belt sander with something like 36 grit to the joints. Flattens them right out. Then, if you feel like it, take the time to fill holes and the larger joints with wood filler, or even...

Did not know that.

What size wire are you using for the dedicated compressor circuit? You did up the wire size when you swapped out for the 30A breaker, right? If you were popping the 20A breaker one of two things was happening. A) you had a weak breaker or B) you were indeed pulling more than 20A. I've seen...

Just so that everyone is aware, don't judge circuit current capacity by wire size alone. Let's say you do only have a 100A service but the electrician that installed the panel had some spare 2/0 cable laying around and used it. If you judged by the wire size alone, you could be screwed...

Just a thought. Why couldn't you look at it the other way around? Is there a way that the feeders from the meter could be intercepted and routed into a new small load center? In the new load center could be a 200A main (if feeders are capable) and two 100A disconnects (breakers), one for the...

Well..... First: I think you're on the right track. Yes, install the additional vapor barrier on the inside of your framed wall, or use the faced batt insulation. You do not want warm moist air from the conditioned space migrating through the wall and condensing on the cold block foundation...

Sure. A lot. And I can get started right away. Seriously, this will (should) involve an engineer to examine things like foundation capacity, 2nd floor design and span, support above the garage doors and code requirements. I think $50 per SF is light considering the necessary demolition and...

Nope. Most structural walls will have a double top plate to carry the load of the truss(roof) to the two adjacent studs. Lining vertical structural framing members up from top to bottom becomes important when building multistory wood framed buildings and actually saves lumber in the long run...

Going rate is between $0.70 and $0.80 per square foot complete. That includes all labor and material and finishing. The material is going to run about $0.25 per square foot so labor only should be $0.45 and $0.55. Per sheet (32SF) that's $16. He's pretty damn close on his estimate. Note...

Low viscosity crack injection epoxy for the thin cracks. The one in the link will move about 14% when cured to allow for a little differential movement. However, 14% of a narrow crack still isn't much, but should remain pretty stable. I've used this stuff with success even in climates with...

CamaroJoe, Here is a link to a thermostat that will meet your needs. Just wire your box fan through it to the outlet. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml

Your attic is about 3600 cubic feet in volume. Attic fans of this type are sometimes rated in square feet, particularly when marketed to homeowners that don't know much about construction. In this case, yours appears to be big enough, but the true measure is its CFM rating. This will tell you...

That "dogbone" wrench is pretty cool. I'm currently looking for a metric crescent wrench. Anybody have any thoughts?