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PB Swiss's slotted screwdrivers are also ground to metric standard sizes, so if you're using them on inch sized screws they will be sloppy. I've found them to fit exceedingly well on the appropriately sized screws.

In my opinion, PB swiss's best product is their slotted screwdrivers. They're hollow ground with parallel tips, machined to very tight tolerances, heat treated very hard, and have rounded corners which help when driving countersunk flat-head screws. I've never come across their equal but they're...

Yes but only before the point of plastic deformation. So under loads light enough for the material to return to it's original state, a given load will result in the same deflection for either material. The big difference is that a piece of heat treated steel like your Allen key will have a much...

That is a fantastic idea that others should take note of! And my extra socket is a shallow 1/4" drive which is by far my most used 10mm!

I received my light yesterday and my sockets today. After putting the light through it's paces I quite like it. It's an improvement over the 65SL in most respects. I don't like the side mounted intensity dial on the new 72SL as much as the rear mounted dial on the 65SL but I understand the...

You clearly didn't ready my last two sentences. I'll repeat them here: Fortuitously, in this configuration the pedals do indeed tighten as you ride because of procession. The pedal body rotating in one direction enacts a torque on the spindle in the opposite direction so as long as the pedal is...

That's correct but not for the reason you may think. The left pedal is reverse threaded and the right pedal is conventional threaded, but that causes a bit of a counter intuitive effect. If the pedal spindle bearings seize and the pedal body can no longer rotate about the spindle, then the pedal...

The way I remember it is that if I put a wrench on a pedal, hold the wrench parallel to the ground and pedal the bike forward, the pedal will come off. If I put a wrench on a pedal and back-pedal the bike the pedal will tighten.

Also, the left pedal will be reverse threaded... so I wouldn't expect any impact driver to take it off if it was trying to turn it the wrong way! And if you're using the hex in the spindle end, you're looking at the fastener from the back side so the left pedal will need turned counter clockwise...

Turn up the acceleration time. It's probably pulling too much current trying to get the wheel up to speed too fast. Increasing the current limit would help too, but at the cost of more current going through your motor.

I have no idea where this idea came from. Metal cutting horizontal bandsaws running 3/4" through 1-1/4" blades with 8-14" wheels have been around for an extremely long time and they don't have any issues with their blades taking the tighter radii (and they're typically tensioned tighter than...

It's just one data point, but my 3/8 drive M12 stubby will take off my 19mm Subaru lug nuts torqued to 89 ft lbs with hardly a rattle, maybe a half dozen impacts over a couple tenths of a second. I would use a larger tool if I needed to but the M12 has never struggled for me. I love it.

I'll often leave a socket cap screw in a hole on my drill press table and use it as a rotation stop when hand holding a larger piece of stock while drilling. It can make it much safer and doesn't add any setup time.

Could you try pliers wrenches? A 7" (180mm) pair of those is reasonably compact and exceedingly difficult to round off a fastener with.

I'm not sure where you're going with this. The stiffness of steel (Young's modulus, the propensity to resist deflection) is effectively independent of hardness. It's a property of the steel composition and geometry. The fit of the tool on the fastener determines the geometry of the interaction...

A 1/4-20 wouldn't measure 5.9mm in diameter, it would be around 6.25mm. And you can measure the thread pitch to be sure. M6x1mm will have a 1mm thread pitch while 1/4-20 has a 20 TPI or 1.27mm thread pitch.

That'll be M6x1mm.

That nut should be just snug enough to remove play axially. Tightening it adds preload to the bearings, so if you're adding enough preload that the wheel slows down noticeably then you'll be wearing out your bearings prematurely.

The real question is what do you plan on cutting and what blade speed range do you have. With a bimetal blade, wood cuts best above 3000 feet per minute, aluminum around 1000, mild steel around 200, and stainless steel below 100. If your saw is designed for woodworking speeds then it will work...

I asked them about it. They’re having issues getting a couple sizes in both metric and inch. If you look at their individual stock you can see which ones they are. Those couple missing prevent them from building up sets but you can buy all the other sizes individually.