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Speaking as someone with a LOT of time running 2x72 grinders, I'd have to go with the 2x72 for general fabrication. It is a vastly more versatile tool, being able to quickly swap to contact wheels, small wheels, flat platen, slack belt, etc for whatever you're working on. The belts are quick to...

If only I had a 10ee in mine!

Both racks were made on a CNC mill. The engraving was done with a 1/8" 90˚ chamfer mill, filled with black nail polish.

I just use a series of normal Huot drill indices for my twist drill sets, bringing new drills in from bulk storage if I damage a drill beyond what I can fix with a grinder. Where I've gone in a different direction is in my taps and tap drills. I made a stand to hold the tap drill, clearance...

If you just need some drills for the common tap sizes then go on McMaster or somewhere similar and buy a couple quality drills in each of the sizes you need. Off the top of my head, for UNC coarse threads #6-32 through 1/2-13 you only need sizes #36, #29, #25, #7, F, 5/16", and 27/64". If you...

Here you go: reasonably acceptable from the front, mild safety hazard from the rear! I haven't figured out what I'm going to do about making it look a bit more respectable from behind. But that said, it runs beautifully. It's quieter than any coffee grinder I've ever used, the sound of the 100...

I'd buy that set of SAE combo wrenches without hesitation. I'd pick up a metric set too if it were offered. Feel free to reach out if you're interested.

I motorized a high quality hand operated coffee grinder a little while ago. As I was nearing the end of the project I realized that the motor ran on 12V and that I had a stash of M12 batteries kicking around. And that an M12 battery recepticle was cheaper than the 120V ac to 12V dc power supply...

Find me a mass production vise with a shaft/slide that's made from anything other than carbon steel or cast iron!

The 6.0 will actually output as much if not more current than the 8.0.

the 2732 and 2731 Fuel 7-1/4” saws run fine on 5 Ah batteries if you’re not doing super heavy cuts. I run them pretty much exclusively if I’m cutting 3/4” ply or 2x material. If I’m cutting hardwood, stacked sheet goods, or thick aluminum stock then I’ll switch to an 8 Ah high output battery...

I actually quite prefer the model with adjustment on the indicator clamp rather than the model with adjustment on the base. This is because the adjustment on the base requires the indicator to be lined up with the direction of adjustment of the base, limiting the versatility. I like to be able...

You cannot treat friction as negligible at all. When there are thousands of pounds of clamping pressure there are also thousands of pounds of pressure at the screw-nut interface and (likely more importantly) at the screw-dynamic jaw interface. This is why putting a thrust bearing under the main...

I love that the have fully enclosed slides and screws so they hold up better in gritty environments with less maintenance.

Brad point drills work well because the points on the periphery of the drill score the perimeter of the cut before the bulk of the material gets removed eliminating chipping. But fiberglass is terrible on drills so don't expect them to last very long before dulling.

If your concern is the output current of an M18 battery then just hook a few up in parallel. That will spread the current over all the batteries. (120 amps over 4 batteries in parallel is 30 amps per battery at ~18V)

It depends on what you're asking the 1.5 Ah batteries to do. I use them in my drill dedicated to a deburring tool and my drill dedicated to small taps and they do great. I also don't mind them in my M12 Dremel type tool. They last plenty long enough for me. But I tend to keep them away from more...

I warrantied a ratchet with them a while ago. I submitted the online form with a photo of the product in early January, heard nothing back at all after that until a couple weeks ago when a replacement showed up on my doorstep unannounced. I'm glad I got a replacement but the experience...

#12 as well as 7/16" fasteners are largely gone from anything modern. You'll run across them on old stuff (my 1940's drill press is covered in 7/16-14 hardware) but rarely anywhere else.

I've been using my 72SL for a little while now and I've discovered an issue with it. My 72SL won't charge with any USB type C charger I own. The only charger I've tried that works is the included type A to type C charger/cord. This makes me think that the 72SL is using an old charge controller...