Search results

Here it is Thursday and the floor is 64* and the room is fluctuating between 55* and 57*. The room thermostat is set for 55*. I checked it at 7:00AM and the floor was 64* and the room was 54*. So it finally got caught up some time Thursday morning. At 1:30PM today I happen to catch it with...

At 10:30 the floor was 51* and the air temp was 49*. Outside temp is 18*F.

At 8:30 the floor was 49* and the air temp was 50*. Wow, it's warming up much faster than I expected.

During the storm of the century, I started to heat water for my slab at 4:00 PM CT today. At 5:40 I had raised the floor temp 2*, from 43-45*. I will keep track of it till about 11:00 PM and will take some pictures when the weather mellows out a bit.

Try this explanation

I have no idea how close the tubing is to the toilet. I never thought about that and payed no attention. If it melts, is there a work around??

Thanks for the comments and advice, but, if you knew anything about an open system you would know that every time a hot facet is opened , fresh cold water is added to the floor. Hot water is drawn out of the water heater before the circ pump. If the circ pump doesn't run (summer), no hot water...

Do you have a slab sensor in your system? If so what did you set the min/max slab temp at. Not sure I understand what these settings are for.

Yes, I will have a sink in the restroom with hot water from the system. Thanks to all for the replys!

I'm getting ready to commission my slab heat in a day or two and I'm curious what others have set the min/max slab temp at in their thermostat settings? I think I'll start with a room temp of 60*F, but would the slab temp be set the same?? Any advice would be appreciated.

IMO if you aren't going to insulate the ceiling, no need to bother with the sidewalls.

Is this question to stupid to answer. I didn't mean to stump you guys.:headscrat I currently have my circuation pump mounted on the wall higher than my water heater. Just wondering if it should be mounted below the top of the water heater as my inlet and outlet are on the top of the water heater?

I'm in the process of installing my plumbing for my slab heat in my garage. It will be an open system at the same pressure as the city water supply, 52 PSI. Does the circulation pump have to be below the water level in the water heater?

Thank you very much for sharing the information. I am getting close to starting my heated floor in my new garage that is similar in size. I will be using a 40 Gal. NG water heater for my heat source.

That's what I thought too. I had it left over from another job so it was basically free. If I had to go buy the wire I would use 2C W/G. I did have to buy some #8 for my welder and got 3C W/G thinking some day may need it that way.

6 1/2 HP Because I have it, like in not have to buy more.

It's a 240V compressor, compressor label says 208/240 22A. It would be just under 100' run. I'd like to use 10/3 w/g if possible. Mainly because I have a enough to make the run. Thanks for all the help guys!

So is that bad???

Looking at the NEC table 310.16, for instance, #10 AWG TW or UF is rated at 30A. How long can the run be and still maintain the 30A capacity?

Mainly because I already have a new water heater for this. Also, I'm not sure I've got enough gas supply for a tankless.